Initially my dealer said it was 'normal' but I kept pushing. Now they are supposedly waiting to hear from the factory on what to do since no codes are being thrown.

Has anyone successfully had this resolved? I don't know whether to tap out and take my chances after the warranty is up or have them press the issue and potentially cause another headache after they 'fix' it. I have -0- confidence in my dealer's service department and Jaguar right now.

 

Two things come to mind here. One an injector is partially clogged and needs cleaning, my best solution is from BG 44K® Fuel System Cleaner added to a tank of gas at fill-up. Two, I had a rough idle at one time that took for ever to throw a code and we found a bad exhaust cam adjustment module that varies the exhaust cam timing. Sorry you feel you have a dealer that is not competent. My dealer Northpoint Jaguar Land Rover in Alpharetta GA has never been stumped and gets the problem fixed the first time. You may want your dealer's service department to contact Kieth a senior technician and see what he may suggest (770 587-2000). Good luck

 

Much appreciated.

This is my dealer's approach to any problem:

"Is it throwing a code?"
"Nothing we can do. It's normal."

I understand that things need to be cleared with Jaguar USA in order for them to get reimbursed, but come on. The car is showing a repeatable symptom...do some investigative work. Check for vacuum leaks...inspect the injectors...remove the top end and inspect..etc ..etc. I just can't even fathom where a car exhibits a problem and the dealer says "we can't service it because the car isn't telling us what to do".
Ugh...

 

uh2 that is SOP at my dealer too unless they have seen it before and can often find the problem. If it's an intermittent miss I lean towards a dirty Injector so try a can of the BG 44k it really works or another injector cleaner that has naphtha in it. And yes JLR is a hard payer on warranty, but a good dealer will find a way, as for engine tare-down that would be something that would have to have hard evidence to get covered and IMHO doesn't sound like what may be needed.

 

Thanks. My example of an engine tear down was an extreme case. I was just trying to suggest what a normal troubleshooting process might involve. I've had other issues with this dealer...dating back almost four months now. They've had my car for a month now...repeated cases of 'yes we've fixed it' bit as soon as I sit in the car I can tell they haven't. 0 communication from the dealer. I called Jag USA and all they do is act as a middle man between you and the dealer. Absolutely unacceptable. Unfortunately, I'm one and done with Jaguar. I do love my XJ...but I will never give Jag another penny of my money if this is how they treat their customers. And I'm not one of those people who expect to get their *** kissed. I just want someone to return my call, let me know what the status of my repair is after they've had my car for a month...or hey, how about fixing an issue and VERIFYING it's fixed before telling me it is.

Sorry...I'm done with my rant.

 

So give us more details about this miss i.e. intermittent-constant regular, what gas do you use. Is the miss more a vibration. Things like that and maybe we can help.

 

There are more than a few older threads on the issue. It may be limited to the SC models. It doesn't affect performance, but there is a definite vibration/miss at idle. The engine stumbles and then recovers. Under load you don't feel it. My first SA said it may be injector related so they had me do multiple cans of seafoam during the course of a year. I went along...knowing that this was most likely going nowhere.

 

So IMHO it sounds like what I had, a bad module on one of the cams and it has to eventually throw a code as there are 4 modules one for each cam so you don't know which one is bad. In my case it wasn't so bad a missfire but a vibration I felt in the steering wheel. Sea Foam does have naphtha so you have tried that.

 

Thanks again. I'll pass this on.

SOP for this dealer, I received the 'your car is done' survey, but no one has called to tell me it's done.

 

The dealer is basically blowing me off. They said they don't have an answer and that the factory is waiting for a software update to fix it. My counter was....are you seriously telling me that it's taking 5+ years to come up with an update for this long standing issue?

His answer was "Yes, of course".

I'm going to pick my car up in a few hours...and I'll try not to drive my loaner car through the front window.

 

Our XJ would sometimes have a rough idle when we put the car in park. It was suggested to change the brand of gasoline to another. I have to admit, I thought this was bogus, but I gave it a shot and switched to Chevron 91 octane. After going thru a couple tanks, the idle issue went away.

 

I tried that.

 

Sounds like the dealer just doesn't care about customer service. Find an indy or DIY.

I expect there are misfire counters for dealer-type tools to read, in case it's a misfire, and things like fuel trims in case it's a periodic leak. Etc.

Some dealers (well, many) are hopeless - basically new & used car sellers and they can maybe manage oil changes, simple brake jobs (you won't like the price) and so on. (Many BMW / Audi / etc dealers are every bit as bad.)

 

I agree 100%. Unfortunately (or fortunately, however you look at it). The car was still under the factory warranty when I was dealing with my issues. It didn't make a lot of sense for me to pay for something I was entitled to get for free. It's just recently transitioned to the CPO warranty.

 

uh2, I have seen cases with COP engines where the COP will develop a crack in the top of the COP. This will allow a small amount of water to get into the COP and cause hell. Normally the misfire would be worse after say driving through a puddle, a rain storm, and/or getting the car washed (basically anything that can get the top of the engine wet). This is a fairly easy check to do as you can look at the top of the COP and see if you can spot a whitish/gray line in the top, normally running somewhat around the edge of the COP (near the black plastic, but in say an 1/8").

While I am not an advocate of doing this as it can lead to other issues, but you can try getting the engine warm and then hosing off the top of the engine to "remove any dirt". This will normally help in showing where the bad COP is as you can then start up the engine and it will cause it to run more rough than it would normally, leading to the car throwing a code.

A problem with the X-Types was having a valve cover develop a small leak, allowing a small amount of oil to get into the plug well, that would cause a misfire. The big trick is simply getting to the COPs to remove them. But, the dealership should have that down to a science by now.

Hopefully you can get to an answer shortly.

 

uh2,

As Thermo mentioned, maybe one or more of your ignition coils are bad. I haven't removed my engine appearance cover and don't know exactly what it looks like down under, but assuming the coils are all visible and easy to reach, the following video could give you an easy way to troubleshoot those coils.


Another "Old School" thing you can do after you've removed the engine appearance cover is to park in your garage at night, leave the garage door open, start the engine and let it idle, turn off all the lights so it is pitch black inside your garage, and then look as see if you see any arcing or electrical aura in the engine compartment. If there is any arcing, there's a good chance that's where your misfire is coming from.

If this was helpful, please press at the bottom right.

Stuart

 

Very annoying if not fixed when under warranty!!

 

Thanks to both of you. I'm familiar with replacing ignition coils on a previus BMW I've owned. This misfire *DOES* mimic that feeling, except for the fact that I don't have any loss of power when accelerating. Is there a history of bad coils before 50,000 miles in these cars?

It's worth taking a look. Unfortunately, I'll have to take it upon myself to do it in a seriously cold garage now that the weather has dropped below freezing.

 

uh2, I am not sure about the Jaguar COPs, but since this engine shares a lot of Ford parts, I would not be surprised. Being a Ford truck owner, I know one of the first things we used to look for when the engine wasn't running quite right was the COPs. In the case of the trucks, we had it figured down to cylinders 3, 4, and 7 (common hot spots in the engine bay). it is a cheap fix and it would be something that would possibly make your dealership work a little harder if you can fix it yourself and show them what they missed and then you politely explain to them that a "non-ASE mechanic" figured it out, so, why couldn't they (assuming this is the case)? You explain that to Jaguar and I am sure there will be some people having to give some very "creative" answers.

 

I don't think they have any such history.

If there's no obvious cause (like oil) it may be worth either getting one new COP to swap in turn with one existing one until you find the bad one or there are usually misfire counters (one per cyl) that an OE-type diag tool can read.

Of course, it may not be a COP at all.