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That module in your photo is the continuously variable damping module from a 2013-14MY X351 (aka the Integrated Suspension Control Module or ISCM). Earlier model years used two slightly different modules in the same location, but they appear to use integrated modules across the range now. Things like that are often described as body control module/BCM as it is a catch-all term, like ECU is used to describe various modules.
The Servotronic system/software that controls the speed sensitive steering is part of the instrument cluster. The TSB above only mentioned BCM (the generic term) so could well be referring to the IC software being reflashed. Either way, if your dealer enters the symptom into the diagnostics software and follows the prompts to update the software you don't really need to know which physical modules are being updated as it takes care of it for you. Although that TSB is for NAS vehicles, it's a zero-loss action to try (apart from the $$ for the diagnostics time).
Originally Posted by Serlock
You are right. Yeah, thats what i meant - they reflash it - nothing to loose. But i guess they were just incompetent to do that. They connected a PC and it did not show that a reflash is required. But it could be done anyways.
hello guys
i have a problem with electrics and electronics on my Jag.
Interior lights flickering, jittery steering wheel, battery drain, car doesn't lock, alarm starting randomly in the morning when the sun heats it, a bit of jittery start sometimes, sunroof malfunction…. . All random with some errors that are intermittent! As you will see on the picture with the scanned errors, intermittent means int, abbreviated on the list.
Thats pretty much one year and a half of errors, that reappears, intermittent pretty much!
Contacts? Pins? Cables?
Can someone guide me to what area or connection guide should I go first?
I have downloaded the connectors quick reference guide and other materials posted here!
Beautifully work to post here that.
I see others Hove done it, searching for those gremlins.
For the guys who did it, was it about simply connections and corrosion and pins? Does it worth to dig into them to clean them…. Check them…. ?
There was a mention here about a piece of hardware. Its about 50-150 euro. 900 euro new. And flashing the actual piece in the care. I doubt I can do the flashing here in Romania. I had trouble with simple mecha ics and car shops.
Please advice, after the list of errors, where to start, what to check.
Ps: no errors on engine, gear box, air suspension!
Thank you
Start by cleaning your grounds. Use the connector guide to locate them. There are two large grounds from the battery to the front subframe of the car that are known to corrode, I'd start there. I added additional grounding cables from the engine block to the chassis. That solved an issue where my AC compressor clutch was burning out due to excessive current in the circuit trying to overcome the resistance of a bad ground.
Start by cleaning your grounds. Use the connector guide to locate them. There are two large grounds from the battery to the front subframe of the car that are known to corrode, I'd start there. I added additional grounding cables from the engine block to the chassis. That solved an issue where my AC compressor clutch was burning out due to excessive current in the circuit trying to overcome the resistance of a bad ground.
Thanks for the answers! What could I use to protect the connections? After cleaning? Copper Greese? Honey (honey works best on baterry conection points!)….. Or something else?
About the two front points…. Are they underneath the car or in the engine bay? After the schematics…. Looks like in the engine bay.
Thanks for your help
Don't use honey anywhere in a car. It's sugar. Mice will eat your wiring and you'll have bigger problems. Vaseline or silicone lubricant works well to insulate connections after you clean and reconnect them.
Your battery connections from subframe to battery are under the car on the right side of the car by the frame rails. They are underneath the plastic undercladding so mild disassembly is required.
I agree with Jaaag_drivah it's a terrible idea! Please do anything you can to keep rodents out of the car. I have seen thousands of dollars of damage they can do and it does not take long for them to chew things into oblivion either.
Even worse is the horrible Soy based wiring the cars are coming with. Apparently they were too stupid to understand rodents eat grain! So now they make pepper tape that you need to wrap these retarded soy wires in to try and drive off the rodents gnawing the insulation off the wires. Completely unsustainable in any way and it insures that you must throw away and buy new cars!
100% dumb!
I use battery connection protection spray if I use anything. The old fashion grease on the battery connections will work too.
For programming and such consider the factory SDD setup. It does the most but it's not great to work with as it's pretty bad software.
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I agree with Jaaag_drivah it's a terrible idea! Please do anything you can to keep rodents out of the car. I have seen thousands of dollars of damage they can do and it does not take long for them to chew things into oblivion either.
Even worse is the horrible Soy based wiring the cars are coming with. Apparently they were too stupid to understand rodents eat grain! So now they make pepper tape that you need to wrap these retarded soy wires in to try and drive off the rodents gnawing the insulation off the wires. Completely unsustainable in any way and it insures that you must throw away and buy new cars!
100% dumb!
I use battery connection protection spray if I use anything. The old fashion grease on the battery connections will work too.
For programming and such consider the factory SDD setup. It does the most but it's not great to work with as it's pretty bad software.
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OK. Will use old fashion vaseline, high temp , for bearings! Thin coating! Doesn't wash away!
Copper grease? Any good?
What tape to wrap the wires with? Paper tape? To protect them from rodents and heat? Or what tape?
Will look up battery conwct on spray in stores.
About sdd……. I have NO idea where I could find someone capable with that software here in Romania. I had a lot of problems with shops and mechanical repairs because Jag is rare and Xj even more rare! I n Bucharest there are like 3 Jags x351 in total. So….. Know how is kind of.…. Inexistent! I'll look up some solutions about sdd
I don't mind copper grease on grounding points but it is conductive so not a fan of using it on battery terminals.
One suggestion I make somewhat reluctantly because it has worked great and sometimes not so well. We have a couple of experienced SDD guys who have worked on forum members cars remotely using team center if your familiar with that software. Maybe one of them will read this post and contact you. I do hear you about finding someone where you live is not gonna work.
SDD is a big subject and can be done DIY. I have a working setup and it has certainly proved it's worth to me. The software is free and then it's up to you to figure out how to use it! If your interested here is a quick search on SDD.
It returned 369 threads! So a LOT of information is out there is your interested. SDD Threads
Just search for pepper wire tape. It's so bad and so common you will see the honda dealers keep it in stock. What stupid idea!
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I don't mind copper grease on grounding points but it is conductive so not a fan of using it on battery terminals.
One suggestion I make somewhat reluctantly because it has worked great and sometimes not so well. We have a couple of experienced SDD guys who have worked on forum members cars remotely using team center if your familiar with that software. Maybe one of them will read this post and contact you. I do hear you about finding someone where you live is not gonna work.
SDD is a big subject and can be done DIY. I have a working setup and it has certainly proved it's worth to me. The software is free and then it's up to you to figure out how to use it! If your interested here is a quick search on SDD.
It returned 369 threads! So a LOT of information is out there is your interested. SDD Threads
Just search for pepper wire tape. It's so bad and so common you will see the honda dealers keep it in stock. What stupid idea!
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Thx for the hint! Will look into sdd!
At this moment…. I know nothing!
Hello.
i started today to Check and clean the ground points.
started with the Trunk ones, because its easyer
I don't know how it supposed to look…. But
Wire brush, sand paper, a lot of fine finger works… and : screws by sand paper until it has a new face, bolts by wire brush… connectors by sand paper!
So….no green corrosion until now. Just that screw and connectors ware, a bit white, not metal grey clean. Some verry fine….. White ish coating on them. Connectors on the other hand, being not aluminium and grey, after clean an re surfacing with sandpaper looks shiney and new. The one from the info center A, in front at the engine on the passenger side ware the dirtiest. Screw, connectors and even the bolt was a bit rusty exactly ware the thread starts and ware the connectors sit!
A nightmare to disconnect and clean in situm, without unplugging the fuse box.
But, here at center A, I cleaned the connectors until I even saw a bit of copper red ish on them.
Could someone who did this tell me, what material are the connectors? And how should look in perfect condition?
Now, I started with the ground points in order to get a grip with the situation and.… understand the things. I didn't unplugged the plugs from different stuff, like this
Maybe someone can explain how its the best way to do it to check the pin connectors. Should I unplug everything, take this stuff of the mounts and look at it of car? Should only unplug it and check stuff and clean it with contact cleaner spreay as they are? Mounted on car but unplugged?
How did you guys do it? Real experience and real know how hints needed! Best way to…. In general.
As a general idea, wires seem ok. Not cooked by heat. Plugs seem ok, not cooked by heat or plastic broken!
So…. Any good points and tips are welcomed. Especially about handling the computers and sensible electronic gear. And if you worked only on one of the A B C D E F of the connection centres on the schematics, please refer to that. No problem!
I want to give it a check to all of them this summer. Interior and exterior of the car.
The ground points inside the cabin usually aren't the problem, the exterior grounding points are more subject to corrosion given the environment they live in. That major connection point between the heavy gauge battery cables and the front subframe connections would be my first priority.
The ground points inside the cabin usually aren't the problem, the exterior grounding points are more subject to corrosion given the environment they live in. That major connection point between the heavy gauge battery cables and the front subframe connections would be my first priority.
driver or passenger side location? Near the turbos? Under the plastic undertray? Please a direct point to go directly to it if you know and did it! Thanks
Hello…. Guys… i think I am going to ask for help with the electrical situation. As I discover bugs and problems
So…
I got after the ground points I did cleaned, some errors .2 exactly.
Intermittent of course! I had... In about two years of ownership, this errors once or twice! This is third time. So…. Can anyone be specific about the grounding point? To start targeting error point as they appear? Car runs ok, no errors on the dash. These ware discovered with diagnosis!
Interior lights still flicker.… next step is dismantleing the interior front light, and check the plugs and touch.… error contact that I saw existed on xf with same style touch button!
Third…. My alarm just goes on…. In the morning. When sun starts heating it up! Random! Don't know nothing about the alarm. Please…. Info! Stock alarm!
Thanks.
Sorry if you feel like this step by step asking Ng for help is booring! But I have to do it, hopping can get some experience and wisdom from you guys. I am in Romania, need t a lot of electricians, even less good ones.
Intake air temp sensor code is probably a mechanical fault. Most likely the charge air cooler pump has failed; is a common issue on these and you can easily test it by feeling for its operation with the ignition on. It is easily replaced with a ZZP brand or the ubiquitous Bosch 010 pump.
Check your quick connector guide for the grounding locations.
Alarm going off may be your door position microswitch inside your door latch/actuator assembly, that is another common failure and it's most likely to happen on the driver's door. Using SDD you can display all recent alarm trigger events and which switch or sensor activated the alarm.
Intake air temp sensor code is probably a mechanical fault. Most likely the charge air cooler pump has failed; is a common issue on these and you can easily test it by feeling for its operation with the ignition on. It is easily replaced with a ZZP brand or the ubiquitous Bosch 010 pump.
Check your quick connector guide for the grounding locations.
Alarm going off may be your door position microswitch inside your door latch/actuator assembly, that is another common failure and it's most likely to happen on the driver's door. Using SDD you can display all recent alarm trigger events and which switch or sensor activated the alarm.
air cooler pump? A code for parts?
Its a v6 diesel not a 5.0
Intake air temp sensor code is probably a mechanical fault. Most likely the charge air cooler pump has failed; is a common issue on these and you can easily test it by feeling for its operation with the ignition on. It is easily replaced with a ZZP brand or the ubiquitous Bosch 010 pump.
Check your quick connector guide for the grounding locations.
Alarm going off may be your door position microswitch inside your door latch/actuator assembly, that is another common failure and it's most likely to happen on the driver's door. Using SDD you can display all recent alarm trigger events and which switch or sensor activated the alarm.
So…. This is a watter auxiliary pump for the intercooler?
For the v6 diesel motor?
If it's a water-to-air intercooler then it does have an auxiliary pump, but you should confirm with online parts diagrams. I'd bet it's the same part number as the other models.
If it's a water-to-air intercooler then it does have an auxiliary pump, but you should confirm with online parts diagrams. I'd bet it's the same part number as the other models.
