As far as I have been able to find – here are the most common/known issues with the XJ

All models

Corrosion on runners for sunroof (early models)

Sticky buttons (early models) – buttons rubberized coating breaks down and becomes sticky

Issues with the central locking system – batteries that are reaching the end of their life throw a fault code – replace the battery when it starts to record a sub-optimal power reserve

Low level vibrations – suspension bushing or linkage that is worn and needs replacement

3.0 V6 gas

Coolant issues relating to the pipework and leaking valve cover gasket

Faulty insulator spring in the supercharger – knocking noise at front of engine

Timing chain guide needed replacement (in earlier models)

I am not sure about any of the other models – TDI, 5.0, etc.

Anyone aware of any others…?

 

Issues apply to the 5.0 V8 supercharged too.

Other common issues for both engines:
Rubber PCV diaphragms rip with age and cause oil consumption and possible lean running error codes. Pain to replace with supercharger on, so best to replace them whenever the supercharger is off. Easy to change on the naturally asperated V8.
Cars with the fake engine noise generator can have that unit spring a leak in the hoses and cause lean and misfire codes. Happened on my 2014 3.0L RRS. Best to just block off that unit at the port at the supercharger with a blanking plate.
Oil leaks around the vacuum pump on the front of the engine are common
Carbon fouling of the intake valves that requires removing the intake to clean is common. It was really bad on my 2011 XF Premium with the N/A 5.0L, but not as bad with the 3.0L RRS.
Sometimes the valve covers can crack, so it requires replacement. If I have the valve cover off for a gasket, I am replacing the valve cover itself because it's a lot of work to get it off.

 

Hi,
Adding some:
Sunroof rust issue can be easyly avoided: Add grease or tape on the liners where rubber boots of glass roof lands when ckosed. This also elimate one type of creacks caused by sunroof.
Door lock failures can be prevented by adding exsample WD40 inside of locks thru mounting screws on edge of the door. (remove screws one by one, so the lock dosent drop inside) This is a trick for all vehicles to keep locks working in northern winter without frosing them up.

The lower front suspension arm (banana arm) inner bushes on front axle can go soft in 100t km (60t ml), what can cause vibration on steering. (other bushes are not known to have more issues than any other vehicle on its size/performance)

Battery: Like any modern vehicle XJ have many systems running with electricity. The infoteinment, suspension, bodycontrol... etc.. Standstill consumption with ign On, without engine running are 20...30A!! Weak/old battery will cause many issues.

Gasoline:
All exept 2.0 litre inline 4; Water pump failures in very low mileages. (later models better, but not complete off the chart)

Diesel:
- Plastic intake manifolds can crack (maybe because wrong oils used? Oils are known to harder plastics -> manufacturers work with most compatible oil adictivies suitable for the type of plastic parts used in engine)
- MAP sensors can be cloging, maybe if wrong type of oils or low quality fuel used.
- ERG valves can be cloging, maybe if wrong type of oils or low quality fuel used.
- "Air valve" can expand and stick, maybe by wrong oils used?
- Main bearings can fail by rotating bearing sleeves or crankshaft snap. -> There have been known assembly errors and factory and have been set too long oilchange service intervals. Half the interval and you should be good. (oil dillution by fuel, caused by DPF burning process)
(many maybes, since most owners encontered these issues are 2nd / 3rd or more owners and may not be known the type of oils/fuels used)

Euro6:
Increased change for oil dillution. Recommend to not use vehicle vehicle only for short journeys. Use only good quality fuel, to keep injectors in peak shape (less droplets -> better burning -> less fuel in oil)

 

Any way of mitigating this to make it less or a problem?

I thought I read something on here...

 

Plastic piping and connections splitting or breaking with the slightest of movement with regard to the cooling system going through years of thermal cycling regardless of engine type is another.

 

The biggest problem I can think of with them is that they quit making them in 2019.

 

That's the spirit we need

 

I got my XJ recently (3 months now) but this is what I have found so far:

• Corrosion on runners for sunroof: I can see a bit of rust on both left and right side runners and black paint seems to be chipping due to some rust underneath (near the front of the vehicle)
• One of soft close door motor mechanism has now gone faulty (rear left)
• Side mirrors dipping when reversing: it seems to be quite buggy and sometimes both mirrors do dip and sometimes left one won't dip when reversing

I don't drive mine too much (it's a weekend only vehicle) and it has done 138,000 km (85,750 miles) until today. Will post more issues but I certainly hope there won't be any serious ones and I intend to keep it under regular periodic maintenance. It is a fantastic vehicle otherwise.

 

As I understand it, the driver's door mirror is not supposed to dip on reverse.

 

I had it as well, but i regulary (twise on a year) add thin vaseline layer on these areas. That cures two things: 1) Prevent further rusting 2) Stop one reason of creaking noise of the roof, because rubbet "boots" of the clas roof lands on this area when roof is closed. (that are propably reason for the rusting: boots wear the paint off)

 

I thought this was supposed to have been addressed and fixed by the 2015 model year...

 

Excellent advice. I will start doing this too. It's funny as well because where I live, it almost never rains. The only time there is water up there is after a wash and I make sure to try all nooks and crannies on the roof.

 

Well, there is still some rusting and the car has always been parked in a basement parking.

 

Hi,
I think in your area the sand and dust particles will increase the wearing of the paint between rubber foots and the rail. Then the moisture, caused by big temperature differences, can enter to the metal?
One good stuff are ACF-50 ( https://www.acf-50.eu/ ) what can eat rust away and when added regulary, it will leave vaseline type layer.

 

How about a spray like this?


Rust Reformer Spray

 

Some other known problems: -

1. Valve cover gaskets leaking at low mileage, and how when that happens the oil leak can kill your alternator (and is also expensive in terms of labor just to get to your gaskets)
2. electrical system sensitivity - reportedly better from 2013 - but still need a CTEK charger and very good (likely AGM) battery.