So that I don't get the "use the search function" I have been looking at everything I can find about replacing the sway bar bushings on my 2011. End links? Done in about 2 min each. Passenger side bushing? Maybe 5 min. But for the love of all things holy how in the world do you get to the rear bolt on that bushing without pulling the engine? Yes, hyperbole, but they DID put the tranny cooler R I G H T T H E R E, and between it and the bushing saddle itself I can't find a wrench or a socket in my rather extensive collection to both get on it AND get torque to it. Got the front bolt out without too much drama, but good grief. If anyone knows of a video or even just some good tips for how to hold my mouth right I'm all ears. On the upside the 2 end links and the 1 bushing DID eliminate the minor clunking heard when going over road imperfections, but I like everything to be the same age. With that thanks in advance for any help.

 

I recall the same headache a few years ago when I replaced those bushings, but although I wish I could contribute a trick to make it less than a major pain, I don't think I really can.
BUT I do recall after doing the task, I found the access to that sway bar bushing mount much easier if you remove the wheel well liner (and wheel of course) which isn't too hard. Then there's the under panel that isn't too hard either. And of course the transmission cooler needs to be released from its mount & pushed out of the way; it'd help much more if the oil lines were disconnected, but that's a whole other pain added, so I just pushed it out of the way as much as possible with the oil lines connected.
All of the above "not too hard" descriptions are relative at least, and I've done pretty much everything to the AJ133 short of pulling it, so there's that.
I suppose I mean it's easier than pulling the heads, replacing the AC, replacing the camshaft cover gaskets, timing chains & tensioners/rails, etc,
So depending on your level of knuckle-busting, dirty fingernail mechanical familiarity, it might be more difficult than my description leads you to believe.
Just one warning though, that one bolt that you found is the toughest to access; make sure you do not cross thread it.
With the frustration of trying to get a bolt started while you can't see it and barely touch it, it's easy to do.
Either way, best of luck & whether something above helps or not I hope you get it done in the end.

 

Great advice from Mark above!
I also suggest removing the plastic fender liner.

Here is my car with it removed and you can see the sway bar.





Here is a bare sub-frame so you can see where the bushing is in relation to the first photograph.




The mounting bolts are just out of sight in the top photo.
.
.
.

 

Thank you both very much! It was an amazing dicotomy of super easy on the eld links and the one side of the bushings, but man, that second one is a "I know how we can make a LOT more money on these things" design. If that tranny cooler were about a cm back it is a 5 min job like the other side, but we can't have THAT, now can we?

I might tackly it myself, but spoke to a local mechanic and he said he'd do it for $100. As much as it pains me to pay that for one $%#@!#@$ bushing, not raising my blood pressure is probably worth a c-note to me.

Again, thanks for the info and the pics. Both are exceedingly helpful.

 

Hey it's a smart man that knows his limits!
No shame in that.

I often post that we need to follow the medical profession and "First do no harm". If your not sure you can do the job just stop right there.

Yes I have posted about that tranny cooler and the bad design of the mounting bolts. They point straight down and collect water but of course Jaguar did not put any drain holes in this assembly! Nice-so even in non-salt country where I live those two bolts were well rusted in place. Next they used Aluminum rivet nuts for threads and those will start turning in place because of the rusty bolt. Now you can't get the bolt's out! As they just spin and spin.
.
.
.