Hi,
There are few ones. At least this https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...15-xjr-283983/
Also most of the "brand" manufacturers have nowdays an weppage where they guide how to detect counterfeight.
Here are Bosch one: https://www.bosch-origify.com/
(their earlier page version for only automotive parts was much better. Now they added all on same pages with dishwashers etc..)
Youtube is good tool as well. Search exsample: bosch counterfeit

Edit: Better Bosch product verify page: https://www.boschaftermarket.com/xc/en/keysecure
But like mentioned earlier: Box can be original, but somebody have swapped the product inside.

 

Thanks I really appreciate the warning!

 

There is a huge problem with Bosch and NGK counterfeit spark plugs too. NGK have a website where you can check if your plugs are authentic.

wombat

 

opposed trims often point to timing, if you're lucky you have a plugged exhaust or some other obvious thing. these are very good at tripping a 0016/17/0018 when it's off a tooth so you might be lucky

 

That's the thing though, if it were timing it would be a persistent misfire and I would have other codes.

The only codes are random misfire, cylinder 2,4,6,8 and then misfire at start up revolution.

Nothing else. After all the chasing I've been doing there's no way it's not injectors causing it. When I ran bg44k and other additives the engine ran better but it still never fixed the misfire fully which originally supported the idea before I started do smoke tests.

I rather swap injectors than get the car on a lift and remove the 02 sensors which themselves are more expensive than the injectors, well at least upstream.

Also when it's colder outside and the engine is cold it stumbles more before finally warming up

 

Check Autozone for the upstream o2 sensors. I found they had the best price for the ones for my RR (Bosch 18121) last week, but Rock Auto had the best price for the downstream ones.
I'm not sure if they're the same (length)) as the ones for the XJ, but they might be.
Replacing old or new-but-contaminated o2 sensors surely can make a difference in the fuel mixture & related issues.

One thing I noticed when I swapped them out though - I THOUGHT Bosch was the OEM supplier, but the originals I removed & the Bosch weren't exactly the same.
Then I looked at o2 sensors from Walker (on Rock Auto). The Walker sensors look closer to the same ones that I removed.
So it looks to me like Walker might be the original OEM supplier for JLR o2 sensors.
But then there are a few other reputable suppliers that are also good quality that should work too.
Cheaper & less likely to be faked.
More Information for WALKER PRODUCTS 25054042

More Information for WALKER PRODUCTS 35034486

 

ocwolfy,

I am chasing a similar situation as well; 2011 5.0L NA.

Slightly rough idling in park or gear - can feel it in the driver seat cushion, and can see the engine vibrating.Come to a stop and it gives a shudder. No problems accelerating though. Good fuel mileage as well.

No fault codes logged, but looking at EOBD Mode $06 misfire counter shows cylinder 2, 4, 6, and 8 misfiring each trip - up to about 8 max misfires on cylinder 2, rarely on #8.


Bank 1 longterm trims +7, Bank 2 longterm trims -7 to -9%.
My plan over the next 2 weeks - going to check bank 1 and bank 2 exhaust back pressures.
I have checked pretty much everything you have, more or less. Replaced all 8 sparkplugs, swapped coils, etc...no change.

I'll update as I proceed.

 

Your situation actually seems to be an exact replication on the 5.0 NA. The only thing for me is that I've never actually driven this car when it never had a misfire since I've got the car from the auction it misfired after the rebuild it did but now all on the same side, (bank 2 with the trim anomaly) and the mechanics just gave up and tried to force me to pay 12k. (It's a long story)

But if it's a clogged cat or bad 02 sensors I'd honestly be surprised. In my next reply I'll list what I did the last week in trying to solve the issue.

Back pressure was something that I thought about but it requires me to lift the car up and test with a temp gun which Ive misplaced

 

History on my vehicle is a purchase with previous owners, so I haven't experienced a perfect idle either since I have owned it.
I have seen the Jaguar TSB (JTB00241NAS2- 25 OCT 2013)
that points to a PCM update ( - i.e, reflash ) for 5.0L NA and supercharged 2011 to 2012 XJ models with check engine light ON and misfire cold or normal operating temp. engine.
We will see, I'll check back next week!

 

Thanks! I have sdd so if they did id love to find that

 

Following my posts, I've went ahead and replaced the original injectors with all new ones for bank 2 with no change. Still an imbalance. Then I thought the only iffy hose on the car was the secondary air injection that comes out the bank 2 valve cover. I replaced that where the new hose actually sealed, did the adaptation and still misfired after drive cycle.

So back to square one. Only thing I can think to do next is what you guys mentioned of either the 02 sensors or clogged cat. And less likely but could be timing which I would hope isn't the issue.


These are some photos from me doing the injector job, manage to finish the side in about an hour and 40mins on the side of a busy road.






Injectors were the originals from 2011







The last picture that is a hose that originally didn't seal so I bought a new one and no change either though there was actually a minor leak

Also I use SDD to check trims I just use my small cheap one so I don't have to shuffle my laptop while driving to view trims.

 

Great work and great pictures!
If anyone is looking for the TSB's mentioned up thread this might help. I was sure you had an injector failure but now not so sure?
Jaguar released 2 versions of this TSB. Has anyone done this and had it fix your misfire's?

You appear to missing an AC charging port cap? Maybe took it off during the repair?



.
.
.

 

It's been missing ever since the engine rebuild. They lost a couple things to the car including my rim lol.

I was gonna put a automotive nipple seal since I couldn't find a cap. I bought a pack for my carburetor when I was modifying the vaccum petcock to a gravity petcock.

 

Still driving it, just still doing my research before moving to the next thing to try and solve. Or I'll say what anyone else says in reference to solutions for the misfire.


Could it be possible that the symposer can cause a vaccum leak if it were leaking? Which would cause a similar issue with the imbalance?

I'll view the cats at a later date when I get back to a lift. I still don't have any car codes or low efficiency codes

 

This may have already been tried, but use SDD to reset the systems to factory original settings and see if that cures the situation.

 

Which option is this in SDD? So far I've used the adaption reset option and it rerecord similar data after 2 drive cycles, and the battery reset. Is what you're referring to something different so I can find it in SDD?

 

ocwolfy,

Yes, I know we're chasing dragons here (it is St George's Day), have you checked the part load breather? Pax (US) side of the engine, runs from just behind the PCV to the throttle body.

When I did the supercharger off coolant pipes refresh on the F-Pace I accidentally caught the part load vacuum pipe where it turns 90 deg around the front of the charger when putting it (the supercharger) back in.

The first time I started the engine, all was fine, the second time it ran like a bag of bolts. I moved pipes around and the idle settled back to normal, more movement would produce veryyyy erratic idle and "coughs" from the engine.

The good news is that the part is only about $35, and readily available....I'll try and dig out the part#

When I took mine off it fell apart under the fret protection around that 90 deg turn. I guess I caught it harder than I thought!

One bit of advice, if you do decide to replace the pipe, getting the pipe off the throttle body is easy, but don't waste your time with the rear connection, it's a b!t(h.. Simply snip both sides of the push tabs and pull it off.

wombat

 

Is your coolant always that low, or does it start out within the full lines, then get that low?
The AJ133 in my Range Rover had the blown head gasket(s), primarily bank 2 (driver's side) until I replaced the head gaskets.
Blown head gasket resulted in coolant seeping into the cylinders, not too bad but enough to cause misfires & corrupt o2 sensors & cat over time.
After replacing the head gaskets I had to replace the o2 sensors (bank 2 upstream was slow). and the cat on that side isn't as efficient as it should be, but not to the point of any misfires anymore.
And of course it doesn't consume coolant anymore.
But that said, it continued with misfires (but less) until I replaced the o2 sensors that were old & contaminated from before I replaced the head gaskets.

 

[size=16px]Ocwolfy
Where are you located, i might be able to help. Need to connect to vehicle using a scanner not sdd, like an autel launch etc...

Not the first time i come across this issue after an engine rebuild or timing job. [/size]

 

I believe I know what you're referring to, the pipe is in perfect condition and didn't leak during the smoke test. I also removed and reinstalled it was weird how its positioned at the back of the engine to the throttle body I thought to myself.