I have to ask, have you ever smelled "old school" General Motors' "limited slip rear axle gear oil"??

 

Yes. This supercharger oil is much worse.

 

Got both of you beat. A Chevy auto trans that had been filled with motor oil about empty the the entire service department when it was cracked opened.

 

RobT for the win!
That's a new one for me but I can imagine the mess motor oil would do to a automatic transmission.
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Getting back to the rear manifold pipe discussion one more time: Lotusespiritse, I don't think we're talking about the same manufacturer since I have a different Amazon web page showing a $92 Mitzone rear manifold crossover pipe with nothing but six positive reviews. I'd appreciate any feedback on what is a good reliable performing Aluminum rear pipe that the forum has experience with. Thanks guys. I'm just trying to buy the right part.

 

Hi guys,

I've been away for the weekend, but I'll dig out which one I bought.

On the other question. Yes, I bought OEM manifold seals. Again, I'll try and dig out the part #s. I seem to remember they were under $3ea from LR.

wombat

Edit:
I used the MITZONE (on the V6). I was happy with the casting quality and the machining of the flange surfaces.
The seals are part# AJ811600. Search for the LR version, they are cheaper. I/we have put nearly one thousand miles on the F-Pace since the rebuild without any problems (including 450 this weekend).

 

Thanks Wombat. That's what I wanted to know.

 

I was very impressed with the quality of the Euro AMP aluminum rear manifold. I am sure they are subcontracting the manufacturing of these units to a Chinese factory, but there was no casting flash inside the manifolds and I haven't had any problems or leaks.

I used the 5.0 version for my 5.0SC but this is the V6 version: https://euro-amp.com/collections/jag...arged-v6-aj126

 

Freddy J,

At the risk of repeating myself, once you have the supercharger off, do everything you can see! Knock sensors, oil cooler and, most importantly, the stupid symposer delete. I lost gallons of blood getting that f#$king thing off the back of the S/C.
And, of course, servicing the S/C coupler and oil.

I posted a link above for the knock sensor part#. Do not buy the JLR part when you can buy the FoMoCo part for 1/3rd the cost.

wombat

 

Add PCV diaphragms to that list.
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Which sealant do you use on the SC snout when doing the coupler?

 

also PCV diaphragm did a search and cannot find anything could use more information on that.

 

Also found this video on YouTube

 

I just replaced my PCV diaphragms and here is a very recent thread. Posted about a week ago?
Error Codes with a Bad PCV

Up to you on the snout but I researched this and Jaguar indicated this is the correct sealant to use.
Loctite 515
Loctite 515
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Wombat, Jaaag- drivah, are the flanges that mate to the engine on the cross over manifold pipe supposed to come with machined flat surfaces? I just received the Mitzone crossover pipe for my 6 cyl XJ and the flanges are not machined and have casting flash at the edges of the flanges creating humps where it's supposed to mate. This would not seat for sure. Apparently, Mitzone does not ship consistent quality parts. Did the Euro AMP brand come with the flanges machined? Thanks guys.

 

Your experience is consistent with the 1-star review I posted above, except your haven't had a chance to find out if the body of crossover leaks like his did as well. Good luck.

 

I have not seen any aftermarket crossover pipes where that flange is machined. The Euro AMP part doesn't either, but the casting had no flash or ridges. This is a niche part. Tooling is expensive and I would be willing to bet all of these crossover pipes are made in the same factory, with the only difference being the skill of the operator.

The O-ring creates the seal, not the flange. In your case, as long as the gland for the O-ring is clean, I would just remove the imperfections from the flange with a mill bastard file before installation. If this were the gasketed mating surface of the water pump it would be a different story.

The quality of some of these pieces is known to be dodgy so it's definitely worth doing a cooling system pressure test before reinstalling all the scuttle trim and windshield cowl. These test kits can be loaned for free at many auto parts stores.

 

Here is a big thread on that rear water manifold and Bydand really educated me on the in's and outs of that part.
Rear Water Manifold and Modifications
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Freddy J,

Perhaps I misspoke when I said "machined". I should have said 'finished'. The part supplied to me was polished to a almost chrome like finish. It arrived in a box with foam protection that was designed to specifically to prevent damage to the part.

There was ZERO over cast or flashing on the part. I only replaced the supplied seals because others had had issues with the pink coloured seals. The seals supplied were black...but I never want to take the supercharger off again, so I used OEM!!!

After more than 980 miles with this manifold, I have no problems.

I have absolutely zero connection with MITZONE, and couldn't give a toss if they succeed, or fail.

wombat

 

Thanks guys. I appreciate the guidance. Yup Wombat, that "machined" comment had me going. The rear pipe came in the super designed to fit foam encased part box like yours. I will also use the OEM seals. My further thought was to buy the Euro AMP rear pipe as well. Then compare and return whichever I deemed was the inferior one. However, Euro AMP is suddenly out of stock on the rear 3 liter rear pipe. Clubairth1, I think everyone jumped on your advice. So, I'm left with taking Jaaag_Drivah's direction and use my mill file to clean up the part.
I suppose it's futile to think about how I might pressure test that part alone before installing it with having to make a custom fixtures. Might as well clean it up, install it, then pressure test.