XJ ( X351 ) 2009 - 2019

Front cooling pipe question.

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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 07:20 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Freddy J
Thanks guys. I appreciate the guidance. Yup Wombat, that "machined" comment had me going. The rear pipe came in the super designed to fit foam encased part box like yours. I will also use the OEM seals. My further thought was to buy the Euro AMP rear pipe as well. Then compare and return whichever I deemed was the inferior one. However, Euro AMP is suddenly out of stock on the rear 3 liter rear pipe. Clubairth1, I think everyone jumped on your advice. So, I'm left with taking Jaaag_Drivah's direction and use my mill file to clean up the part.
I suppose it's futile to think about how I might pressure test that part alone before installing it with having to make a custom fixtures. Might as well clean it up, install it, then pressure test.
Euro-AMP is just reselling the same thing that is available on Amazon and Ali, so you saved yourself some coin. I bought the kit from them almost a year ago now, the sensor on the pipe had a broken tab because the bung had a little slag on it. When I reached out to them about it, they were of no help other than to suggest I just reuse my original sensor … which I intended to do anyway, but if I had not cleaned up their product I would have ruined my sensor as well.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 01:17 PM
  #42  
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What is the trick to remove this hose?
What is the trick to remove this hose? It’s on top of the throttlebody

 

Last edited by RobT; Apr 2, 2025 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 01:39 PM
  #43  
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Push in on the highlighted area, push down on the connector while doing so, then you should be able to pull it straight off.


 
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 04:15 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Jaaag_drivah
Push in on the highlighted area, push down on the connector while doing so, then you should be able to pull it straight off.

Big thanks I would have never guessed that!!!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 04:33 PM
  #45  
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Picture of all the tools I used to pull the S/C. The orange handle pick and pry pry were life savers for removing connections.
Picture of all the tools I used to pull the S/C. The orange handle pick and pry bar were life savers for removing connections.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 05:12 PM
  #46  
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I found this a life saver for those pesky bolts on the back of the supercharger and symposer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375987087593

(ICON mini flex head ratchet and torx bits)

wombat
 
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 05:34 PM
  #47  
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Ok which water pump brand is best?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2025 | 09:15 PM
  #48  
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RobT,

Now you are into a real crap shoot!

The latest, and best, JLR pump is part# AJ813909. Sadly, there are so many Chinese knock offs, you don't actually know what you are getting.

I looked at a water pump on recently on Aliexpress that had "Made in Italy" cast into the body, and had made in "Germany" on the 'genuine' box label.

Given that JLR cars are made in the UK, China, Brazil, Slovakia, Austria and India.. I would suspect that many components are manufactured locally to JLR spec..

When I did the 'refresh' on my wife's F-Pace cooling system, I bought an OEM pump from the local LR dealership. It said 'Made in Italy' on the box.

wombat
 

Last edited by wombat; Apr 2, 2025 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2025 | 09:26 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by RobT
Ok which water pump brand is best?
Genuine from the dealer, 303241742 will be ~$200.
I went with FCPEuro as they have a lifetime warranty and their $75 Eurospare seems legit:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...spare-aj813909
 
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Old Apr 3, 2025 | 08:25 PM
  #50  
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Thanks for the info.

Also I found that Harper Jaguar in Knoxville has a lot of their parts pricing discounted with shipping available. That’s where I been getting my OEM parts.

parts.harperjaguar.com
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 10:50 PM
  #51  
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Gentlemen, I purchased both the Mitzone and the Euro AMP 2 piece 6 cyl, rear manifold crossover coolant pipes for comparison. They were ordered from Amazon and eBay respectively. They are indeed the same castings with the same casting marks and they came in the same identical custom foam lined boxes. Same slight flashing ridge to clean off of the mounting flanges whether Mitzone or Euro AMP. The bore on the long legs while clean and smooth is 23/64" or 9.1mm and tapered tighter the further in. The OEM part has a 10 mm bore according to this thread. I have the 10mm long drill to take another 0.9 mm or 1/32" dia. out of that bore. Actually, the bore on the Euro Amp is not as clean as the Mitzone since I couldn't get my 23/64 drill bit (used as a gauge) into one leg. Any danger of making the wall too thin making that bore 1/32" bigger?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 10:04 AM
  #52  
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Up to you but I drilled mine out. I figured that if the entrance was a certain diameter I would be safe just extending that diameter all the way thru the bore.
Have had it installed for around 3K miles now and no problems but other than leaks I was not expecting any issues.
I found more of a taper in the bore than you so removed more metal. I also used drill bits as diameter gauges.
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