The multi-quote button isn't doing anything (user error I'm sure) but you guys are awesome. Thank you. Also, I will say that my local Jaguar service department is the best I've dealt with.

The contract has a small blurb of pre-existing conditions stating: "pre-existing conditions that existed prior to the later of your contract purchase date or contract effective date as listed on your declarations page and the completion of your waiting period" The purchase date was 11/10/17, so waiting period was over on or about 12/11/17. The claim was denied due to the amount of damage as they claim it {the damage} happened over a length of time greater than the 1187 miles I put on the car (who knew you could drive a car with catastrophic damage like that???). The car was driving perfectly until I started hearing that rattling sound indicative of bottom-end damage. The oil pan had plenty of metal shavings in it (think of pouring a bottle of silver glitter in your oil) but rest of the motor was "spotless" (their words not mine).

The coverage was from CarShield but went through American Auto Shield. At first they said everything was good to go, but after the adjuster went out they changed their mind. I will look into my options as far as some sort of arbitration, but will not hold much hope in that.

I have found a few good engines on car-parts.com of which actually include the one rhomanski sent a link to. I may have to go that route and do the work myself (no worries, I would definitely make a picture-heavy post of the process).


sorry it's blurry but here is a rag with the metal shavings.

 

If it was me, I'd take the heads and new bottom end for a rebuild at a machine shop. You probably know all of this already, I'd put all new belts and hoses, motor mounts that sort of thing. Might as well do it all while your in there. It'll be expensive but hopefully you won't have to touch it again for 100,000 miles at least.

P.S. I come from the idea I'm going to put a lot of trouble free miles on my 8 cars. I've known a lot of people that will just get it running and sell it on.
I knew one guy that would buy a car, drive it a year, never do anything but put gas in it and sell it for more than he paid.
I kind of admired that he could do that but it's not my style. I buy to keep, since I'm not even able sell refrigerators in Kenya. I'm a terrible salesman.

 

Check out what I found on eBay. Item # 282809749971


I'm with you on that one. This will be the first car I actually drive in which I plan to keep for as long as I have a right foot.

 

That looks great, only 27,000 miles. I might suggest if you get it, have an engine shop put it on a test stand and check it out first thing. They'll be able to run it, listen to the top and bottom and check the torque and horsepower. If you go that route you can put your supercharger and heads on ebay and get back a little bit of money. You don't really have to be a salesman to sell on ebay. Good stuff will sell itself.

 

JagGate,

I think you've had some bad experiences with the wrong lawyers. Not all lawyers charge Washington, DC prices or require retainers. I disagree with your advice.

I suspect that many people have friends or family that are lawyers or who know a lawyer who would be willing to send a letter to that "warranty" company at little or no cost, assuming that the OP has researched his contract and has good arguments. That letter shouldn't cost more than an hour's worth of time. As I said in my previous post, "... the threat of litigation can go a long way." I'm not saying that the OP should hire a lawyer and immediately file suit - but if the "warranty" company believes that's possible, then they will pay the claim if that will cost less than going to court. Most cases like this are settled, and not litigated.

Sometimes it makes more sense to swallow your pride and walk away, even if you think you're right. Why spend $10,000 to win on general principles when you could have fixed it for $1,000? I don't know enough facts to make a decision one way or the other in this case. The OP's next step depends on the provisions of that contract.

I'm speaking from my own experience. I showed that the denial of coverage was not supported by the facts and the terms of the contract, which convinced them to pay.

Some "extended warranty" companies always deny initial claims and cite some ambiguous provision in the contract. They rely on the fact that most policyholders do nothing after their claim is denied.

Stuart

 

So, their contract defines a pre-existing condition to exclude a specific period of time, including a waiting period. And nothing happened during that waiting period. Am I right that the adjuster denied coverage as a pre-existing condition because the damage was so extensive he concluded that the damage must have started before you bought the contract? If so that's absurd, because every car starts wearing out and sustains "damage" as soon as it leaves the assembly line. That argument lets them deny coverage whenever they wish. It's a way to weasel out of paying claims and should be void.

Their flip-flop is to your advantage. I think their first response was right and the adjuster was wrong. Where is his evidence of when that damage began? Just because it is extensive, doesn't prove that it didn't start after the waiting period.

I'm not an expert in engine damage or metallurgy, but it seems to me that extensive engine damage can occur in as few as 1 or 2 miles. All you need is a qualified expert's opinion that disagrees with their conclusion. What does your dealer think?

 

Your correct in most of what you say.Stuart. I have a cousin here that works as a paralegal. A cousin in Missouri that is a lawyer. Another cousin that is married to a Dermatologist. Comes in handy. on1r1 could probably fight it and possibly convince them to pay for it. That takes time though. If you need your car for work it's sometimes worth it to just fix it. That's why I've never had one of them on my cars.

If he's retired time isn't that much of a problem and would save a lot of money. I think Jaguar wants $10,000 just for the engine someone said in another thread. Their warranty paid $50,000 to a dealer to re-engine it. Of course a small shop would be a lot cheaper.

A friend of mine bought one of the nicosil engines. The warranty company flew an engine tech in from Jaguar to verify it was the nicosil. It took him about 5 minutes to verify it. They paid to replace the engine. The tech probably made a bundle off of that trip.

 

Hate to say I agree with the adjuster as the OP shows on post dates and responses that the car developed the clatter on 11/9/1017 when the car was towed. The "warranty" was purchased on 11/10/2017. So it would appear that the "warranty" was purchased one day after the engine failed.

 

The "warranty" (not sure what else to call it) is marked on contract as 11/10/17, but was purchased a day prior. To which I assume it takes effect the day after. I see your logic XJsss, and you are correct, however before the adjuster went out there the company gave the green light as everything checked out and I was within all contractual obligations/prerequisites. Otherwise I wouldn't have authorized the motor teardown at my expense of 2430.00.
The adjuster and the warranty company stated the damage had been going on for months as cause for denial. I know for certain this is not the case as the car ran/sounded silky smooth...until it didn't.
10k!? I wish. Apparently, the motor from Jaguar is 20.2k. I didn't pay that much for my LS7. And JLR will not install a 3rd party motor unfortunately. I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase/rebuild the motor I posted earlier. I sorted most of the logistics yesteday. Also, I'll attempt to acquire the adjustor's notes (which hopefully include pictures). I'd be very interested to see what was written.

One question: What is the difference between the 8th VIN digit of "E" and "C"??? I believe "B" is for the non SC motor.

 

Good catch, Robert! I stand corrected.

 

oops!