My front passenger door speaker (lower - bass) has had a couple of episodes, my missus first noticed it "farting bass" (not thinking of a better phrase) while it still works the bass parts of music makes a terrible noise. Next time we turned the car on it'd gone.

I've perhaps noticed it do it twice more, this is within a 6 month period.

Today it's done it all morning, turned car on and off multiple times, slammed the door to see if this was what originally fixed it but no luck.

Is this how speakers normally pack up or do I have another problem?

Also can some handy chap give me the lower bass speaker part number for the front passenger door in case I do need a new one. I have the premium sound package with amp and 2 sub's if this makes a difference.

 

Played about tonight turned the sound right up to 50 for a short while and back down again and it's gone....what's going on?

 

With the volume at 50 you've probably gone deaf and it's no longer a problem!

Not an expert on these cars in particular, but having built a few sound systems I'd guess either there's a perforation in the speaker cone, which is causing the airflow to rasp when the speaker is moving, or the mounting (is it glued or bolted (or both?)) has loosened slightly and what you're hearing is a vibration of the cone assembly on the mount.

I'd guess it's a door card removal job in order to find the culprit. And another guess is that the loud volume has temporarily re-seated the cone or similar.

 

Not sure what the issue is yet, but I have the same problem. Recently bought a 2011, and when I got it I thought both front lower woofers were totally blown. And also the mid on the drivers side. They sounded exactly as if they were blown. As in voice coil clapping and complete distortion of low end. It was so bad I stopped playing music altogether and I spent a lot of time researching what speakers to use to replace. Luckily I didn't buy any yet as over he weekend I tried the stereo playing the same type of music and it sounded incredible. No vibrations at all or distortion. I am assuming there has to be a short somewhere or some amplifier/signal issue causing this.

Anyway the next time is happens I will investigate and repost what I come up with.

Complete buzzard that the woofers sounded so bad and blown and now sound great even on low hard bassy tunes.

 

The sound being up at 50 is no problem for the premium sound system which I believe is around 800w, it doesn't even start to distort at that level.
If it does it again I'll pop off the door card to see what's going on.

 

Glad I'm not the only one, it certainly is a nice system when it works, would love to know what the 1200w sounds like.

 

The 1200W system sounds epic. I have it in mine. It's tight, controlled, and clear at any volume. It's the kind of system where you don't think it's loud, then you try and say something to one of your passengers......
It's not the bassiest of systems (the Meridian is better in this respect) but that's not what it's trying to go for. It's all about reproducing the music as accurately as possible.

To me, your issue sounds like one of the channels on the amp is starting to die. A dodgy capacitor or a bad solder-joint in the power-amp part could cause what you describe.

 

This would be true if turning the volume up didn't solve the problem. It would cause an intermittent problem but one that wouldn't be solved by increasing the volume.

 

I still think it's electronic rather than the speaker. A blown speaker would sound worse at higher volumes.

 

As said on another forum, sounds like voice coil is failing.

Easy proved if it is the speaker, swap with speak from other side.

 

Fixed my speaker issues, and you were right, voice coil separation. So I ordered 8" Rockford Fosgate mid bass speakers, and removed the door card. Then pulled old speakers.
I actually had to cut the old speaker lip off the old speaker and use it as a mount. This also gave the magnet enough clearance to sit flush. I also used dynomat tape to make sure there would be no rattles. Everything went in tight and smooth, and the car sounds incredible. I recommend this even if your speakers aren't blown. The mid bass sound is superior. And you can hear the music a lot better, the speakers I used were RF PPS4-8 4 ohm. Only cost 120 for the pair from eBay. I don't have a final install pick as it got too dark, but you can see the way I cut the old speaker and how it mounted up when I was testing it.

Thanks,

 

How did you remove the door panels ?
how were you able to find which speaker wire is + and - ?
thank you

 

There's a good instructional post about removing the door card. You can search for it on here.
But basically there are about 3-4 screws that need to come off. and the the door just pops off and up. And goes back on just as easy.
As far as positive negative. I put both marked line wires on the positive terminal of the new speakers.

 

Have these held up well since your post? I'd love to upgrade mine since I'll be removing the door cards anyway, but thought the system was 2ohm, which seem harder to source.

EDIT: Went ahead and ordered the same speakers (and some Dynamat) and hope to install them later this week!

 

How did you clear the window track mounted behind the speaker?? I ended up having to use a .180 inch thick spacer I cut out of lexan on top of the original speaker bracket.

 

In one of he posts in here I posted pics of how I used the original speaker frame as a spacer and mount. It worked perfectly. Basically I cut the back off of the original speaker keeping the ring that was the surround and using it as a spacer. Gives clearance and also seals back air tight.

 

I did that exact same thing and it still hit the window track! I had to cut an additional spacer to fit between the original speaker frame and speaker ring for the magnet to clear the window track. This is what I think the possible issues could be:
1.Window track mount different between a 2011 and 2012 (highly unlikely)
2. Fosgate slightly changed dimension designs on the speaker
3. window track could be adjustable to align window to door which would interfere with clearance issues (didn't take any time to actually look into this)

I also noticed on another post you had mentioned the speaker wires on your 2011 with premium sound were "white" and "white with a black stripe" while my 2012 XJL standard system has two black speaker wires. I was able to identify which wire was positive and negative with a volt meter but I was surprised to see a difference in the wiring harness between the 2 cars!

 

Yes I definilty had clearance on both sides using the cut frame as a spacer/mount. Windows go up and down perfectly. And yes I have the bowers Wilkins system and just cut and spliced the factory wire and there was a difference in the wires but I remember I wasn't sure which was positive or negative, but I did the same on both sides so it didn't matter.

 

This is how I had to clear the window track! I used the stock speaker frame cut down the same way you did but had to cut two plastic spacers to fit in between the speaker and the mount. Without the spacer the magnet hits the window track within the door leaving about a 1/4 inch gap between the speaker and the stock speaker frame. Friday I will attempt the rears and see if I run into the same issue!

 

You are unable to put the PPS4-8 speakers in the rear doors due to electric window motor being in the way. After discovering this I set my sights on removing the rear deck and installing them there. After 8+ hours of work I was able to successfully install the rear speakers in the rear deck and reinstall all the trim and the seats! This job is extremely difficult to tackle and I would not recommend it to anyone!

Here is a link I found on how to remove the rear deck. Again this is a serious PITA!
https://www.tintdude.com/forum/topic...-deck-removal/

I am going to post a new thread "how to replace the speakers in your XJL". I believe we have some good information that should be in its own thread for others to find.