What's up guys been awhile but I'm back again and need some assistance. I have a 2015 XJL Portfolio and my Injectors are leaking so I am ordering a whole new set. Issue I'm having is on the driver side the 2nd cylinder I can do get the injector out. It has been soaking for over a weak with carb cleaner and I have the sliding hammer removal tool but it will not budge and it's the only one left. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to break it.

 

Are you able to rotate it?
And is the spark plug removed?
If yes & yes, I would say keep on smacking it with the removal tool and it should eventually come loose
I don't know if it'll make a difference, but maybe putting a few PSI of air pressure into the cylinder as if pressure testing the cylinder, but then again you don't want it to come flying out at you.

 

Yes all plugs are removed

No it will not rotate at all

With how stuck it is i don't even know of air will work

 

I just overcame the same exact problem with the 4th cylinder fuel injector. I was able to get it out with a slide hammer, but it just took a diligent two hours and a nice blister on my thumb. I also had a hefty vice grip attachment on mine. . If you're anything like me you were probably very concerned about breaking off half the fuel injector and getting it stuck in the engine block, but elbow grease is necessary for something stuck like mine was and I imagine yours is. I was perusing the forum for this same issue before I managed to get mine out and saw someone comment on another post "PULL HARDER!" lol.

Also, let me know if you have any tips for tackling the passenger side. I had a clogged fuel injector on the driver side so I went ahead and did the spark plugs and fuel injectors on that side but the passenger side looks miserable.

 

Link doesn't work and what do you mean vice grip attachment

I haven't even made it to the passenger side yet. I've been stuck on the last one on the driver side. But I have been soaking the Passenger side so hopefully that helps

 

Weld additional counterweight onto the slide hammer. That's the only thing that freed up my stuck injector. It freed it up within 15-20 hits.

 

Carb cleaner is nice, but if it's stuck to the point that it won't rotate you might want to try soaking it with a penetrating fluid - something like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, WD-40, Kroil or something along those lines.
I've removed all injectors on both of our AJ133s, more than once on one of them. The first time for each (after 10+years and 140k+ miles) was tough to varying degrees, some more than others, but I wouldn't expect them not to be. For the real tough ones, it just took more & harder whacks with the removal tool, & I may have sprayed some WD-40 in there..

 

Not sure if these pneumatic diesel injector tools can be attached for injectors used on AJ133:
eBay link for tool
Check the adaptor nut sizes on description / picture.
Leaking Diesel injectors do stuck sometimes so hard on head that these tools are pretty much mandatory.

 

Unfortunately, pressurizing the cylinder is a waste of time because the tip of the injector is so small. If your shop air is regulated at 100psi and the injector tip is 1/8" in diameter, pressurizing the cylinder only exerts 39 pounds of force on the injector. That is nothing compared to a substantial whack with a slide hammer. I would also not try twisting it unless you want the tip of the injector to twist off, requiring removal of the cylinder head to punch the tip out of the cylinder.

Unfortunately there is no way around this. You need more on-axis force to pull the injector tip out of the head. You also should remove the valve covers and replace the gasket as well as the PCV diaphragms while you're in there.

 

The proper term may be a "locking plier"? I'm not very good with names. Try this ? Or Search Amazon for the following: "Orion Motor Tech Vise Grip Slide Hammer, 9.8 in Locking Pliers 2 lb Slide Hammer with Quick Release Swivel Connector, Locking Pliers Slide Hammer Set for Nail Bolt Pin Seal CV Axle Removal." You may already have this type of slide hammer and I'm just not being helpful at all, sorry if that's the case.

I have no idea where to even find the room to move around on the passenger side! It sounds like you're doing amazing if you were able to get access to the fuel injectors to start soaking them!

 

Very good point on pressure within the cylinder, it might see more pressure than that with the upstroke of the piston.
From what I've experienced, there shouldn't be a problem with the injectors being turned by hand, but if they're really cemented in there I'll take your word that it could be damaged if it really takes a lot of force to rotate it. I've never seen an injector stuck that hard (I've never worked on diesel engines).

 

We have had some success soaking the injector with liquid co2 from a spray can to cool it down below freezing before hammering with the slide hammer. There are also air hammer adapters for the slide hammer. Those are the last option before pulling the head usually.

 

To gain working room I remove the 2 motor mount bolts. The mounts have a stud facing straight down. With the nuts removed put a piece of wood under the oil pan and use a floor jack to raise the engine. Just watch things and be careful. It helps to have 2 people as wiggling the engine while slowly jacking it up helps a good bit. Same when going back down. The studs sometimes get caught on the edge of the mounting hole before sliding in.
You can get at least several vertical inches which is gold when working in that area!

Next I jack the engine up on the side I am working one. This tilts the engine a bit and improves the angle of attack so to speak when working on the injectors.
I am always amazed about the wide range of difficulties people have pulling the injectors? Some are so hard they break in two when pulling. Other times they come out without much of a fight.

Why I was able to pull all 4 injectors out using the fuel rail was a surprise to me! I was expecting a big fight like others. I never even hooked up the slide hammer tool either!



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I didn't have so much trouble working on both sides (we have an NA 5.0L, not supercharged). The biggest thing is to remove the "secondary Bulkhead Panels" (right for right/passenger side & left for driver side), and the air filter box. Removing those open up the space as designed for access to remove the valve covers.




Spoiler alert though, it's not as quick and easy as it might sound to you.
A few things are removed in the process of removing the panels, and they are a tight fit between the engine & the firewall/body.

 

Yes those darn "Secondary Bulkheads"! They are a bear to get in and out. Found out later that the problem is these are installed and then the drive train is installed.
No wonder they don't want to come out.
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Alright I finally got it out and it snapped in two . Lord I hope the passenger side also isn't a pain in the *** as well.

 

Got both pieces out of the head?
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Thankfully yes

 

Any tips on how you did it? I have read one successful method and he pushed the broken tip of the injector down into the combustion camber and then fished it out with magnets/pliers thru the spark plug hole. Sounded like a hard repair but he got the piece out without removing the head.
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Have seen this done in the shop, that's about the only way to make it work without removing the head. The plug hole is quite a bit larger than the injector tip, so it will work with some luck and the right tools. A borescope and a flexible pickup tool go a long way here. Also good to blow the debris out using air while both holes are open (giggity) as best as you can.