Ok, 15 years here, and on my third Jaguar. 2017 XJ R Sport 3.0 AWD. American, 80,000 miles. Just acquired this car and I love it. There was a slight whiff of antifreeze, so I decided to take on the pipes. The Y pipe and the cross over had been previously done, but the rear pipe was plastic, and the return line was brittle. The car runs great, so I decided to fix it.

1. Rear crossover pipe replaced with metal.
2. Oil cooler and gasket replaced.
3. Waterpump and plastic connector replaced.
4. Front snout of supercharger and connector replaced.
4. Valves (intake) cleaned with PEA and wire brushed. Blown out with air.
5. New Laser Iridium NGK plugs installed. The old plugs burn looked superb. Car ran great.
6. Injectors removed and lots of carbon on tip. I decided to replace. Got Land Rover made in Germany wrapped in plastic with green land rover tags on boxes and replaced the injectors. Replaced the injector retainers with new Land Rover parts.
7. Metal thermostat replaced.
8. Fuel lines were all taped closed for the process.

I expected some serious smooth running excitement. The car took about 7 tries to start to get fuel in the rails to the injectors.
It then started on about three cylinders and threw a series of codes. I cleared the codes and started again, and repeated the process several times. It runs terrible.

Codes:
P0273-11 Cylinder 5 injector circuit low - Pending
P0300-00 Random misfire detected
P0304-00 Cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0305-00 Cylinder 5 misfire detected
P1315-00 Persistent misfire - Catalyst damage
P0316-00 misfire detected on startup ( first 1000 revolutions)


I pulled the plug on #5 (closest cylinder to the passenger compartment) and checked the injector connector and found no issues visually. That itself is about two hours as this is really tight in there. I have no idea where to start on this.

I replaced everything with the best parts I can find. I really need help with this. Please help

 

Chopper,

Where did you buy the injectors and plugs from? Sadly, there are a ton of fake injectors and plugs on the market, and the level of disguise is getting more sophisticated. A JLR label means very little anymore.

If you still have your old parts, I would suggest that you reinstall them and see if the problem goes away.

wombat

 

Ditto - Wombats dead-on with the first thing to look at.
Using genuine or Bosch (genuine OEM supplier for injectors) is imperative for critical precision parts, but unfortunately it's not just a question of what they're badged as and the wrapping that they come in.
They have to be from a reputable source that ensures they're really JLR or Bosch injectors.
This doesn't limit your sources to JLR. I've had no trouble buying genuine parts on E-bay and other on-line parts suppliers.
But it has to be a supplier that ensures (and insures/warrants) that the parts they sell are real and authentic.
So generally, the cheapest "genuine/OEM" you find will generally be risky.

 

If you want genuine spark plugs, go to the NGK website. Honestly, they are worth the piece of mind. Buying 6 plugs for $45 is going to give you a world of hurt.

I'm with 12jagmark on this. Your LR dealer will sell you a Jag part at 30% less than Jag want....or use a certified LR dealer online.

wombat

Edit:

I suggest that you should check the wiring to C5, and ensure that the coil pack is torqued down correctly. Also, try swapping C3 with C5 and see if the snag moves.

 

Did you run the Fuel Prime Routine campaign in SDD? These cars run a returnless fuel system so any air trapped in the lines will need to work its way out of the lines.

 

What is "the fuel prime routine form SSD"? I am not familiar with that.

I am buying new (different) NGK plugs and will install them. I will also clean and reinstall the fuel injectors and let you know if that fixes the problem. My hunch is that it is exactly the problem. I never thought they could imitate the injectors so completely. If only they has imitated the workings of the injectors...

 

What *he* said.

The fakery out there is phenomenal; l would try again with confirmed genuine injectors and plugs....

As far as the plugs are concerned, the only giveaways are slightly sharper corners on the external hex, and the substitution of a capital "0' instead of a zero in the part number on the insulator

Byy from NGK directly, for sure.

Genuine injectors can be had from Jag parts hoise SNG Barrett.

 

Yes I got burned badly on counterfeit injectors. Came in JLR boxes and with the right part numbers BUT things were not quite correct!
If your interested here is my in depth thread with pictures of what to look for. Again they are pretty close to factory!
Injector Problems

I also went back to my stock injectors after a BUNCH of work. They have continued to work and I have about 8K miles on the car after this repair.
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I went back to the stock injectors and a new again set of plugs and all codes vanished. The car runs great. There was a lot of bullcrap involved with these injectors.
thanks for all your help. I would have never considered counterfeiting. What a world!

 

Thanks for reporting back!
I posted what I did to try and prevent others from banging their head against the wall for weeks on end like I did. I just could not get past the fact that I had installed "new" injectors yet the car STILL would not start!

Any chance you took pictures of how the injectors were marked/labeled? That turned out to be the key to how I finally identified they were junk. This was AFTER both VAP and a Jaguar factory tech told me the exact same thing! I could not believe they could make them so close to the real JLR versions! Proper JLR boxes with what looked to be OEM stickers and everything!

It was just a number of small differences that stood out upon closer inspection.
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Great that you got your engine running again and thanks your reported the fault.

Yes: Tons of conterfeight injectors on the market. (be aware: Brakedisks as well)
Even local Bosch prepesentive found out that they have fake injectors on stock with original boxes.
Somebody in deliverychain have done extra money by swapping fakes to the orginal boxes.

Been spent fair amount of hours to seek reason for bad running as well in past.

 

It would appear that my injector thread is the go to for “you might have clone injectors”, eh Kevin? LOL. I’m so glad I’m past that.

FWIW - go to AutoZone, they have the correct injectors with the correct Bosch holograms etc etc. you’ll pay for it - but it beats doing the job over and over. You can check the holograms in store. They don’t care. LOL

To the OP - glad you’re sorted. Run a can ok BK44 through her and call it a day until they actually fail. Cheers!!!

 

Just a heads up for you guys doing a coolant update
never touch the injectors, just make sure you use top tier fuel
And injector cleaner every 6 months heres a video on it

• Fuel Contamination: Debris or water in the fuel can act as "liquid sandpaper," damaging the precise internal sealing surfaces of the injector.

 

I disagree. If you're doing the coolant job, go ahead and pull the injectors and replace the valve cover gaskets. They 100% WILL fail, they WILL start leaking oil onto your manifolds causing a bad smell in the HVAC, and you WILL need to pull the supercharger and everything else off the top of the engine to replace them...just do them while you're doing the cooling system update.

For what it's worth, RockAuto sells the genuine Bosch injectors for a much lower price than any of the retailers.

 

I use a high PEA cleaner in the gas tank but still have never seen anything good or bad after use. I like BG 44K too but I believe Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus has a higher level of PEA. Another one I have not tried yet is Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner which is supposedly close to the Techron in PEA concentration.

Have run CRC Industries 05319 Intake Valve Cleaner thru a vacuum port in the intake in an attempt to get at the carbon deposits on the back of the intake valves. Followed the directions and let it cook for 30 minutes or so after the engine was turned off. I did see a good bit of black smoke and crap come out the exhaust. But again not really any changes that I could tell. I still have a couple of cans so will do it again at some point.

I did this because I feel these engines idle somewhat rough and suspect at 65K miles that carbon build up could be a factor.

But injectors can and do go bad WAY more with these DI engines. I never had any problems with the old low pressure port injectors. Just read the forum with all the cars pouring white smoke out the tail pipes as the injectors continue to flood the engine with fuel. Now you get to next step in this fiasco. The excess fuel could not be burned in the engine so it all goes into those very expensive catalytic converters!

And yes I know because I had to replace my drivers side cat after a massive injector failure.
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That's not a bad thing; doing good preventative maintenance can be disappointing in that it just keeps on running as it should with no thank you, no improvement in performance if it's kept healthy.
I haven't had an injector fail yet, and when I removed them when replacing things underneath them I did clean the tips up a bit (not much to clean though) with carburetor cleaner & a brass brush, and they just went back in and continued operating as they should. Both sets (the XJ and the Range Rover) are at 175k miles with original injectors since 2012.
I do add a bottle or two of Chevron Techron or Lucas fuel system cleaner a year to the tanks, and usually run Chevron gas in the Range Rover anyway.

 

I can attest to the valve cover gaskets leaking and it’s cheap reasonably cheap. It’s an easy “while you’re in there” job. The PVC is also integrated to the valve covers and is pretty much impossible to service with the supercharger in place.

I can also attest that bad fuel injectors will destroy cats, destroyed cats will also destroy plugs and make misfires appear at random, even if said plugs are new.

There’s a LOT of “while you’re in there” with these cars. Removing the symposer and all the plastic crap that goes with it, replacing brittle plastic vacuum lines with silicone…. You can go crazy.

I do regret not mechanically cleaning my valves when the supercharger was off but saying that, for 88,000 miles they looked really clean. I haven’t tried one of those spray it in the intake systems. I do think once these cars get some miles on them, a silky smooth idle isn’t possible unless you’re just relentless.

I will say that between BK44 and Redline, Redline gave me the biggest “results” in…. Idle smoothness.

 

Thanks for the recommendation and I will for sure try the Redline product. I have been a fan of Redline for a long time too and use a Redline product in the E-Diff.

Thanks Mark. Yes I agree that maintenance is a thankless job sometimes!
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I'm surprised that more Jag owners don't have their fuel injectors tested and rebuilt. Especially with the prevalence of so many counterfeit parts available. With the right equipment, injector testing is relatively straight forward, and rebuild parts are readily available. In bigger cities, where rebuild shops are common, many indie shops often give customers the option

 

Another comment about this?

I had my injectors ultra-sonically cleaned and flow balanced. BUT you need to understand the massive difference between the old port injectors and these more modern DI injectors. Most places (Including the one I used) are cleaning DI injectors at low pressure like the old style injectors. DI injectors need to be tested and cleaned with multi-thousand pound pressure. Mine were cleaned at 72 psi.

It did appear to work and no one pointed out this difference to me until after I had them cleaned. So be sure that the shop has the proper (and expensive!) injector tester setup.
This place claims to have the right equipment.
DI Injector Cleaning
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