Motul Specific JLR 5122 0W20 is also available in the UK online from Opie Oils. Price is £67 per 5L which is about $66 per US gallon (5L being about 1.32 US gallons and using an exchange rate of 1.3 $ per £. This much more expensive than the $8.79/qt ($35/US gall) quoted earlier in this thread, but then all motoring costs in the UK are much more than those in the US (and I've owned great cars in both countries).
I also note the comment earlier that Dealerships all use the "suck" method to get old oil out for an oil change. I'm sure they do but then, why do they always charge you for a new drain plug?

 

I recently had the dealer change the oil in my 2011 5L NA. It was the first change since I got the car last spring. In the past I have used my dealer for such routine stuff because they will let me poke around under the car while its being done. Well that didn't happen with this car.

Had to go back and check my receipt for an oil plug.

FWIW below is what I was charged for. No Plug!


(1) C2D3670 filter $34.20
(8) 0W20 Castrol oil $104.64
Labor $24.20
Disposal Fee $2.16
Tax $12.37
Total $ 177.37

 

An honest dealer then in FL! Perhaps it's only in the UK that you get the standard charge for the drain plug even if they don't disturb it.
Still the price of the oil is a bit eye-watering.

 

The way to fix that is when you are checking in tell them you want the old parts i.e filter and drain plug.

 

Thermo and others:

In the interest of "Paying It Forward", I completed the oil change on my '11 XJ and took a few photos to document the steps. As others have noted, this is a simple process that requires little time once the tools are in hand and the first-time setup issues are addressed. I believe the photos are self-explanatory. A few notes:

1. Once the old oil/filter were removed and the new filter installed, I added 7 qt of oil, took a short drive, let the car sit for ~10 minutes, and checked the oil level. It indicated the level could not be read, i.e., it was below the level of the sensor. I added 0.5 qt and repeated the process. This time it indicated "Max", which tells me the gauge has a range of ~0.5 qt. BTW, it was at “Max" before I started the oil change, this despite 10k miles of driving over the past year and adding no oil. And this on an engine with 125k miles!
2. Without wanting to restart the "Which oil is best/required" debate, I'll mention that I used Mobil 1 5W-20W ($5.50/qt), in part on the basis of the comment on the containers stating "Recommended by ExxonMobil for use in applications requiring: Ford WSS-M2C945-A, B1". That was good enough for me since I have no warranty issues to worry about.
3. The only thing that didn't go as planned was resetting the "Service Required" light. I completed the required steps in under the 3-second limit many times, but could not get the message to clear. [Later learned this does not apply to XJs.] Since the message is only displayed in the IP for a few seconds, it's not an issue for me.

Again, thanks to the many posters that provided helpful input on this topic.

1. 

Electric oil extraction pump used.


Rubber hose (~0.4-in. OD, ~0.2-in. ID) placed on 6 mm pump-inlet hose. Diameter of engine extraction tube is ~0.3 in.


Pump inlet hose in place.


Pump power connections to +12V tab in fuse box and ground nut on frame [Correct positions].


Extraction in process. Filter removal tool in place.


Filter removal, without oil spill.


Remaining oil in filter housing, vacuumed out before installing new filter.


New filter ready for installation.


Total time to remove warm oil, just over 6 minutes.

 

Nice write up. On a side note, where did you get your oil filter cap removal tool. I like that one. I need to get something better than what I have currently.

One note for those looking at the pictures, the first picture, the electrical clamps are on backwards (ie, the red clamp should be on the right side and the black clamp on the left side). Not sure how it really affects the pump other than making it run backwards.

 

Thermo:

I purchased the cap removal tool from Amazon: "ARES 56026 - 90mm Oil Filter Wrench for Land Rover and Jaguar - 3/8-Inch Drive" ($21). This tool made removal and installation very easy. I had seen videos where jaw-type removal tools were used, but these visibly gouged the plastic surface of the cap.
Good catch on the closeup of the leads! I took the photo while still checking things out and before I noticed the pump inlet was pushing vs. pulling. You'll notice they are correctly attached in the overview photo taken during oil removal. I'll edit my post and replace the closeup photo with the leads attached correctly.

 

Good info but has all been posted before?

Also please read about resetting the service lamp. On the XJ you must use a external device of some kind. No button pushing in the car will do anything. SDD and several aftermarket scanners can do this. Some more expensive than others.

I use a cheap one along with my SDD. Here is one of many threads about it.
Reset Service Light
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Good info, I just bought one of those tools too.

I also just bought a 5L bottle of Liqui Moly Special Tec LR 0w20 oil from Amazon, was $52.99.

 

Excellent advise. There are several youtube videos. What a novell idea from Jaguar! All manufacturers should plan like this!
I had an employee do the same for my car. Very easy, very fast. The question I have now is - how do we reset the service light, without having to buy that foxwell 510 device for $200 on amazon?

 

You can't, you will need a device or SDD. I have an Autel 906BT for the US market, it can do live reading/some minor bidirectional stuff, reset oil light and calibrate air suspension, and honestly much more. Many on the forum probably have no use for such an expensive tool. I use for all car maintenance.

 

I told you 2 posts up how to reset the service light. We have many threads on this.

This picture shows an important thing you should always check when changing the filter. These filters are installed almost vertical. This means all the oil drains out of the filter as soon as the engine is turned off.



See the oil puddled down in the bottom? It is suppose to be there because Jaguar has moved the anti-drain back valves into the engine and they are no longer in the filter like so many are. We have at least two people who found these valves failed and this starves the engine for oil on startup until the pump can fill the filter and all the lines back up. May not cause any extra wear but Jaguar did go to the effort of installing the anti drain back valves for a reason.
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Thanks for the link. I ordered the iCarsoft v2.0 JLR. Hopefully, this also will work?

 

I have the iCarsoft v2.0 JLR and it works just fine.

wombat

 

Yes that is a good scanner to get. Many satisfied reports about it.
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Anyone know the torque spec on the oil filter?

 

It says 25 Newton meters on the top of mine. So that’s what I do

 

I just tightened mine up the right amount.

 

Than 25 Newton meters it is👍

 

Hand tighten for both spin on & cartridge types. It worked for me over the years. Just tighten it what you got but if you are a strong man be easy on it As a matter of fact it is printed on majority of the spin on oil filters you buy. It is not printed on cartridge type filters but same rule applies.