Yes I have been digging for a while and heard rumors of an over seas Mobil 1 that would meet the specs but I just found this and it's not real common but it is out there. I ordered 6 quarts for $51 with free postage off EBay too!
Not too bad a price.

Also found it on Amazon for $58/6 quarts and also free shipping.
Walmart on-line also offers it with free shipping included.
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So we've got at least 3 options, that meet the 5122 spec, at reasonable price :

Liqui-Moly Special Tec LR 0W-20
Mobil 1 ESP x2 0W20
Motul Specific 5122 (this is what I use)

Motul Specific 5122 on Ebay :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153797014665?epid=245390835&hash=item23cf043489:g6 kAAOSw3vpeHrQM

 

Wow! That's a great find. Thanks for telling us.
Oil price is getting better all the time.
I got the Mobil 1 for $8.49/qt and the Motul is $8.79/qt much better than the $12+ I have seen the other stuff go for.
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For all those 'draining' the engine oil by vacuum sucking it out with a pump, a question: what about all the metal particulates and metal wear debris in the bottom of the sump? Engine type or size does not matter. It's called 'draining the oil' for a reason. Perhaps I am being old fashioned?

JM2CW....

 

Those are supposed to be in the oil filter.

 

You're right Mark, but the filter is not all perfect and the sump is at the lowest point. Gravity sucks! :-)

 

Yes, you are being old fashioned.
I've done a lot of research into this question (suck or dump) and at least for the AJ126 and AJ133 Jag engines it makes zero difference, not so sure about the 4.2 V8 but I doubt it would make any difference. The reason is that the sump plug on these later engines is on the side of the sump not the bottom and the bottom of the drain hole is about the same height above the bottom of the sump pan as the oil extraction tube is above the bottom of the sump pan, approx 4 mm in both cases. Also all JRL dealerships have used the suck method for many years now.
AFAICT both methods leave the same amount of old oil in the bottom of the sump but it's so little as to be not worth worrying about.
Like you I used to dump the oil via the sump plug as I assumed that would leave less old oil than the suck method but then I found out otherwise.
So about two years ago I switched to the suck method (on my V6 F-Type) and it is so much quicker, easier and less messy than having to crawl underneath to remove then replace half a squillion undertray bolts and nuts.

 

I'm using Mobil Super anti-friction 5W-20 synthetic oil now, according to my investigations it is a newer oil that applies for the 2012 V8 5.0 supercharged.

Specifications: Ford WSS-M2C945-A Ford WSS-M2C945-B1 Ford WSS-M2C930-A

What do you think?

 

Na5H, if you are worried about the metal particulate in the bottom, simply run the motor for a few minutes before sucking out the oil. That should stir up most of what you are worried about. Then the big thing is to make sure that the oil is warm so that it sucks out really easy. You get it too cold and it takes forever to suck it out. I learned that one that hard way.

 

1)-You do know Jaguar changed their recommended viscosity to 0W-20, right. If you search the forums, the TSB is here. It has to do with the timing chain tensioners.

2)-Mobil Super product lines say that they are synthetic BLENDS, not FULL SYNTHETIC, as specified for these cars.

3)-The common theme in all of these oil threads is being sure it meets JLR specs, ie, M2C925 or 5122. With oil that meets specs available for $40.00 or so for 5 liters, ie, Castrol, Liqui-Moly, or Motul, why use something that doesn't?

 

Ah, ok, I didn't know they changed to 0W20, thanks Enosgl !

I have added in total 1 liter (twice half a liter) the last year (8.000 km) of this stuff and have to buy another can now to have in store for the next filling.
So I'm gonna look for the ones you mentioned now.

One of the Ford specifications I mentioned in my post is the renewed specification of M2C925, which they don't sell anymore, so I'm not really worried, but I prefer the full synthetic anyway, this Mexican stuff I put says Tecnología sintética, but yes, maybe that could mean partly synthetic i guess...

Thanks for the reply, it helps!

 

Harrosito look up thread a bit.
Mark SF has summarized it neatly;

So we've got at least 3 options, that meet the 5122 spec, at reasonable price :

Liqui-Moly Special Tec LR 0W-20
Mobil 1 ESP x2 0W20
Motul Specific 5122

I would stop looking for the obsolete Ford 925 spec and use the JLR spec of STJLR.5.1.5122.
But the good news we have at least 3 other brands beside Castrol that do meet the spec.
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Ok man, thanks!

How much oil do your XJ 5.0 cars need in how many km's?

 

Well that's kind of a fighting question around here!! At least the change interval and brand to use!

I will say the engine takes 7.2 L and I change mine somewhere around the 6K-8K mile mark. First time I am using the Mobil 1 X2 oil. Man is that oil green and very thin.
Also just did it the first time using the factory suck out method as I have always done it from underneath.

But I will say that it was the fastest, cleanest and easiest oil change I have ever done!
Can't believe what Jaguar charges for an oil change seeing how quick and simple it is.
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Ok, I only did a refill twice so far, two times 1/5 liter in 8.000 km's in total.
Just have it for one year exactly now, no problems and no complaints, 62.000 km's in total now, bought it with 54.000.

Do you and anyone else have an idea how much oil your car consumes in how many km's?
Just to have an idea about the state of things in there.

 

1 litre in 8000 kms? Sounds fine to me.

I used to have a ford that used that much in 300 kms.

 

I'm a fan of the suck method to change engine oil and always use it when doing intermediate changes of my engine oil. However, when I've had a dealership do my oil change (to retain the warranty) they have always charged me for a new sump plug. If all JLR dealerships always use the suck method how do they justify this?

 

Thanks Oz. I may give it shot if that is the method dealers are using too! I do have a question though: where do we insert the 'suction tube' and how do we know it has bottomed out in the sump and not hung up on some internal lip?

 

Open your oil fill cap on the engine. You will see a metal tube on the inside. Just attach your plastic tubing to that. It's already setup by Jaguar.
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Na5h,

If you open your oil filer cap you will see a small diameter tube, almost like a dip-stick tube, inside. That is where you hook up the suction tube. When you pump out the oil it will start to gurgle as the last dregs come out, give it a few more pumps and you're done. I was once shown a sump pan from a trashed 5.0 V8, I reckon that the pump method will leave less than 2oz of old oil in the pan.

wombat