I'm confused - you want to run your engine with low oil?
It's supposed to be at the full level.
If you get down to the halfway mark or lower you'll start getting warnings to add more oil.
With lower-than designed oil levels, you're stressing the oil & your engine because the oil both lubricates & cools the engine.
If I catch mine at one notch or more (God forbid) below full, I add oil at 1/2 quart at a time until it reads full (after sitting long enough for the oil to settle of course)

 

Yes.… but,
There are ideas that especially on higher euro emission regulations, euro 5 and 6, max oil level its not so good for the engine.
There are opinions that, around half of the oil scale on the dash is better than full oil level, like full scale.
And there are opinions that full scale on the dash for oil is certainly no good!
And at this moment I incline to just over half of the scale is better. Because the car doesn't consume oil, I don't use it as a racecar but as a cruiser, and not being new, Internal pressures are best kept with just above middle oil level.
And that's a big discussion about this idea.
Because tappets are new, chains new, oil pump new, need need for full oil level, that is even dangerous if you get diesel in oil from a unsuccessful dpf autocleaning….. Or other reason.
I totally get the idea of full oil….. But I also agree with above middle is better.
So…. I was not talking about half of oil from the 6, 4 litres capacity, I was talking about half of scale on the dashboard, witch is not exactly the same as half of all the oil in the engine.
My guess is that from one bar down from full full oil level on the scale I give it another bar down or maybe two, without going down from half level on the dash, is going to be about 200 ml max.
I'll do this by seringe with 50 ml steps. Get 50 ml out, see level. Even start engine and come back in 30 min to let it settle being hot. From my experience, from half to full are 3 or 4 increments in the display to vary certain levels of oil. I need one up from half.
And at the end….. A lot of land rover owners are with oil at half…. Because of the diesel in the oil on dpf regeneration problem. And they are exactly the same engine. Us Jag owners, we are just a fraction of the lr disco, range, and so on. So…..

 

I run both our diesel cars (an X351 and a Volvo, both Euro 6) at one mark below full - since if it then goes to full, I know I probably have diesel in the oil (from failed dpf regen) and will change the oil early. I change oil at half-interval anyway.

 

Hi guys.
Some new problem
After discovering that one turbo leaks oil, made the smoke test for leaks. No leaks discovered
Then used icarsoft for a scan.
P0033-00
Jaguar x351 left hand drive
Passenger turbo leaks oil. Front and back
The bypass valve could be guilty for turbo leaking? Just got them refurbed professionaly about 3 months ago. Actuator came back ok. Only like 1000 km on them. Am that is the only error.
Please….sime advised opinions would be great.

And some ideas about possible risks and dangers with drive-ing it like this.…
I all ready had a spirited discussion with the shop.
They checked the actuator and gave it the ok at the time of the refurb.
Now…. They said that if its the turbo failing and case of warranty they are going to refurb for free and also pay the hand work for getting the engine off the car to get the turbo out.

So… ideas? Advises?
Word from the wise please 🙏

Ps: does someone have part number for the actuators? Both of them?

 

Hello
i havé some questions
Is this the bypass valve on my jaguar 3.0 sdv6


Is this the valve with this problem found by icarsoft?

Is it located in the front of the car in the air intake area.….. Down….. Arou d the bottom of the radiators?

It seams stat even to diagnose this error its hard in Romania.
So…. Guys…. Please help.
And. Of that valve its the one named by the error, how to fix it? Change the electronic and arm that moves the valve? Does someone has part numbers. I have found talks about it on the I ter et but no code part number.
Please heeellllllllppppppppppppp!

 

There are two valves on that unit on your picture.
The turbocharger bypass valve is the electronic solenoid type (with wires on it). The vacuum operated flap type (with arm) is for single/dual turbo modes. (operates when rpm rises over the treshold of singe turbo mode (low rpm) to dual turbo mode (above 2800-3400rpm depending conditions)
You can test the operation by adding 12V and solenoid should pull (open). When not powered it should be closed.
Check the wiring too, since open circuit can also indicate that the wires are cut or connector is not in place.
All this and more is found from the x351 Service and Repair manual available on Sticky section for free.

Original bypass valve are made by FoMoCo and propably same part used in many Ford vehicles, but i don´t have cross table to check out. In most cases if you go to the local car part shop they can find it if you have part with you.

Pierburg make replacement and available most car parts providers, like this: https://www.autodoc.parts/pierburg/16598266
This solenoid is actually only part failed on my engine bay and only part changed so far. (belts/rollers/oil/filters are not counted, since they are service parts)
Even water pump is original. (now >320t km)

 

Great answer as always from you sir!
Should I check and clean the whole assembly? With brake cleaner its ok?
And the other valve.…. Just clean and no stickiness I guess

 

Brake cleaner is Ok, burt note: Vacuum operated flap valve axle do like to have some crease and if the solenoid is failed, no cleaning will help. (Open circuit means that either the coil if broken or wires cut - EMC can´t detect the resistance) Basicly this part should not have much dirt etc inside, maybe just some light engine oil from turbos.
When you remove and mount valve assembly back mind the vacuum hose to the actuator. Its bit diffult place to access from bellow.
There are 4 screws holding valve assembly on place, one bit hidden near solenoid.

Solenoid itself might be possible to be changed from above by removing intake hose, without removing valve assembly but it can be tight place..?

 

First of all.… many thanks to all the guys who help with answers. One of them…. Vasara…. You are gold.
So…. Update and questions
I changed the egr valve from under the radiators. The electric one. Was 50 euro, by pierburg, but had fomoco stamp erased. So…. Original. The vacuum valve moved freely by hand. So not stuck. Error open circuit gone.
But….
Today he some driving in town. Couple of km with dynamic red engaged. Then on normal again. In 5…7 km….. White smoke from under the bonnet. Stopped the car…. Bonnet up. White smoke getting up from driver side left hand car , back corner of the motor. And in 20 seconds after parking on the side of the road with engine still running, disappeared. Stopped. White smoke. Not chokey at smell. I had Icarsoft with me…. No errors. Nothing.But. I was told there is in the Bach of the engine a cooling pipe from egr to egr I guess.

This circled with red I guess.
So….. Question:
Under boost and 90’ engine temp.…. Could this start leaking? And coolant got on turbo or engine or dpf and make white smoke? I was told they fail…. And you start loosing coolant. Is this pipe on the same circuit with the whole engine cooling? Or different pipes? Different split like circuit or a continuation of the engine cooling circuit?
After this episode…. It stopped. Got back home….. No smoke no nothing. Only town driving.
So.… in short…. Could this be the problem? And if it leaks…. And for some period of time at higher speeds and boost, it starts to leak, could the cooling system lost pressure for a short period of time? Because it started a ritmic hasz hasz noise from coolant pump area. That stopped after I stopped the engine for 1 hour and didn't reapered. Pump could make noise when the system lost pressure at temp under outside town driving conditions? And more, I had a pump, good firm, in 500 km had a internal noise. In hand, of the car, rotated by hand, had a internal noise. Hepu was the pump. …
So….. A lot of ideas, please help.
Smoke after boost, no oil smell actually, after stop I think it smells hot coolant. White smoke from turbo area that's I think just under the end of the pipe? Maybe bad clamp, maybe bad connection on that end under pressure? Under speed and boost? The pipe is made from.… plastic metal?
And….. Can you help with part number? Is this one?

any of you guys who can help, please help.
The experience is golden, because I, by my logic, found this ideas that seem to be linked as symptoms. Am I correct?? Are symptoms connected? Even the noisy watter pump after pressure loss by pipe at the egr coolant pipe? And after it re settles.… pump is without noise?
Thank you for your answers

 

Thanks Danu99.
Nice to hear that one of your issue solved.
There are lot of coolant hoses going around on these engines. All circuitry use same coolant, so if you have leak you should see level go down in resevoir. Yes: Bad or misplaced hoseclamp can keep up but start leak only when engine heat is high as pressure increases.
I recommend to go thru all hose connections and please check the transmission oil heat exchanger, because you just had work near it when you worked with the turbo pressure valve. The service and repair manual have good pics of whole coolant circuit on page 1111.

 

@danu99 , for me is not clear if your issues are solved or not. Looking kind of closely on the forums and FB groups, the 3.0D V6 engine is prone to actuator lock on the turbo, I think the bigger turbo. However, usually the turbo, pressure, and other kind of leaks on the readers are in fact either manifold cracks or pipes cracks. In your case, the manifolds looks clean and fine. The crack is somehow difficult to see but usually it will build residues with oil and ash around the place, eventually you can ask someone to rev the car stationary and check with your nose meter around
Another place to check for issues are the pipes from EGR and intercooler. They are either black or red color and they can develop cracks that are not easily visible and probably you can drive the car with a small crack for ages before it gets bigger and develop visible issues. At the age of the car, those are really prone to crack. I had 2 of them on my previews XF 2010 with same engine like yours. I think one was cracked for years based on the extremely very rare smoke smell felt in the cabin in the cold mornings only and stopped after the crack developed and discovered and changed it. They are in the front of engine, one I remember can be seen and eventually manually checked if you take out the plastic parts from the intake. They are all coming below and need to have to get under the car and check. In my case one was damaged either when the alternator job was required, or maybe the metallic clamp damaged it before but when it was reinstalled, the mechanic of course didn't arrange all 100% in the very same place to stop the leaking like it was before. Anyhow, check the rubber pipes. You can get them cheaply online from ebay, local breakers or even EuroJag.
Bafta!

 

hello romanian friend
Initially, I tough that its leaking from the recirculation front plastic pipes. Took the smoke test. All good. After that, a diagnosis told of a egr valve that is stuck on open. Took care of that. 50 euro electronic valve. And after that…. Some white smoke from this area….

and the smoke is temporary, not permanent. And not from the egr body that is on the side of the motor but from the corner down side…. Turbo area…. Hot pipes exhaust area. That's why I was thinking aboutcoolant dripping after 100 km per hour…. Occasionally. And that's why I asked about the pipes with coolant at the back ok the engine. About the smoke…. That was white and in waves and disappeared in 2..3 minutes, without smell, I think its coolant. Not oil or exhaust gases. O had a tiny bit of coolant smelleven with cold motor and bonnet up. Now… I think I know the area to look. But…. In Romania, what service shop do you go to? Dealership?

And again…. Thanks to vasara for the previous answer.

 

In that area on the XF and probably to XJ also, there is a flexy pipe about 5mm external diameter. It is for the oil breather. Like you describe, it shouldn't be, but that is prone to cracking especially if there was any intervention prior for the manifolds.
And yeah, very difficult to find a good mechanic for usual local brands like VAG or BMW or Mercedes. Although, I find Jaguar to be much easier to repair and service. I'm not a mechanic but I am looking out how complicate things are on the other brands, especially BMW and even Mercedes. VAG for 3L engine are maybe about similar here and there and maybe 2L engines are on the simpler side, at least the older ones. But on the Jag, you need to do your homework better at home.

 

That flexi pipe from the oil breather its not the guilty one. That's on the top of the engine. I am talking about pipes on the side-back side on the engine. Not on top. The white smoke is from lateral and back down. Not the rocker cover. In what the breather pipe from oil breather goes into. I know about those. And no matter how much homework I do…. Shop mechanics make crap of it all. And about how easy is to work on it….. Engine down for turbo….. Engine dorn for this and that…. Is not easy.

 

Reminder: This is same engine used in very high volumes on PSA vehicles. (much, much more than JLR) Peugeot and Citroen models 407, 607, C5, C6 at least. Plenty on mid-Europe roads. The services working with PSA vehicles are familar with this engine, but all pipeworks are not same. Also at least oil sump is different since front wheel drive on PSA application. Visit some local PSA service. Should be more available than JLR.

Danu: Don´t calculate out that the white smoke can be steam from external water source as well, dropping somewhere to the hot exhaust. Keep eye on coolant level. Peek inside on resevoir thru coolant cap opening. You can see two "steps" just under cap. Note the level on cold engine and follow up if the level changes day by day.

Hulubei: Never heard that AJD-V6 / DT20 engine would suffer a lot of turbo actuator lock. At least that you could say "prone". (counting Jaguar, Land Rover and Range Rover & PSA vehicles) Invidual issues of course can happen, but normally modern turbos are extremely reliable as long as engine working like it should. (there are some known desing faults in types of integrated vaste gates causing lot of issues, but these types of turbos are not used on AJD-V6 / DT20 engine) Primary turbo have variable vane desing by Garrett. Known to work well - Full details of air charging system can be found on X351 Service and Repair manual. Extremely good manual with operation principals.

Of course if engine have some issues and still used this will cause lot of different kind of issues, like stuck actuators or clocked DPF:s or EGR:s / EGR coolers. Exsample EGR valve(s) opens only by ECU when power is NOT taken from engine = Very low soot emission. (thats why blocking an EGR do not have any effect on output power. No matter what any "tuner" claims) If EGR is found fully sooted then something is wrong. Just cleaning EGR is not a cure. Original fault caused the issue have be found. (maybe leaking injector or dead EGR valve spring?)
The crack plastic intake parts is most likely caused by using wrong engine oil. All pastics go britle on oil, its only matter of time. Engine manufacturer work with oil manufacturer to make a pair as less reactive as possible together. (plastic parts used on engine and recommended oil) Also oil dillution with diesel can cause plastics to go britlle. (cheap tuning "chips" / devices have caused lot of these issues - engine can be practically flooded with fuel. If tuned it must be done properly adding more spray layers instead just flooding the combustion chamber)

I have 2010 3.0D with >320t km on odometer. So far everything on my engine bay is original, exept belts, rollers, filters and same Pressure recirculation/By-pass valve solenoid than Danu99 just changed on his. (Danu99: Its not EGR valve. EGR valves are sides on the engine)

 

I know about the 2 steps in the coolant reservoir. I check it once a week. Trust be told…. Between 1 and 3 drive with Jag I get the bonnet up))) something I never did for months on with W211)

 

Ok. Good.
I recommed to check all fluids regulary after major work on engine bay. Never been sure if some hose or pipe been bend or not clamp not mounted just at the right spot and got lose. Engineers are all human (mostly..)
Once all seems to be working and fluids stays inside, the bonnet release can be left alone.

 

The only place I know i've seen multiple failures (mine included) was around the oil filter where is the heat exchanger. The manifold there cracks. But I don't think it can take from there until the back of engine.
I remember there can be some sort of o-ring in the back of engine. I remember mine was not very bad when I did the serpentine belt back of the engine but being there, I agreed with the mechanics to do that o-ring to. Was few Euros to do it. I think that can be the culprit for some RR failed engine because of oil starving, I think that is failing more on RR and just drips oil until the engine will be starved. See if it is not from it. I know you are going for coolant/water but still while checking there, be sure it is not a mixture with oil too.
Then I can think of the windshield wipers if their pipes are maybe dripping in fact from there some water on the back, then there is lot of heat between engine and firewall.

 

so…. A am going to follow up on my own post.
i got to the bottom of the problem with the smoke unde mu good, just in front of the deiver corner or the engine.
Its not a pipe! Its not the turbo i think . Its not the valve cover
its actually the basket of the valve cover. Febi i think it was, changes brand new in 2024!
could be a bad gasket, could be a “good mechanic”

In the red area, just as the cover stops, starts the oil spill! On the grey shield and down more
And a little bit of oil on the edge of the cover….moist of oil, just the contact surface of the cover with the block.



So…. From that is the white smoke, and weak smell on hot engine.
Curios is that it just sips… maybe bolts not tight enough! And as it sips down it hits something hot and voila…. Smoke!
This s time I used a mirror with light and adjustable!
Oil level is and was consistent the whole period. Spot on.
So…. Yeah!

 

I wonder if any sealant compound are added on the sharp corners of the cam bearing area mating surfaces of the cam cover?
On any engine these are typically areas where sealant is vise to add, even new seal is used. (rubber alone are not very good against sharp corners)
Also outermost cam bearing caps should have sealant added on mating surfaces of head for prevent oil creeping out between cylinder head and cap. This is mentioned on service and repair manual, botton of page 891 and drawing for it on next page.