For a while from time to time started feeling burned oil smell inside the car. Thought that it may be some leftovers on exhaust or other hot parts from repairs before, as no leakage is seen from top or bottom in engine area.
Few weeks ago steering wheel started to be harder from time to time and howling during driving.
Few days ago changed the power steering fluid. System was lacking about 1 liter. But no spots of leaking were found.
Today got oil smell today. It is stronger when stopped. And finally saw the smoke coming from hud corner on passenger side (right). The car was worm at that moment.
any idwa where to start the check up? Dont want ro go to service and ask to search for something that i do not know about.
hope thats not manifold cover again, that was cracked and changed before. It had a crack, that was leaking and visible only when car is hot and under torque. So that was a big problem to find.

 

Norbertas, I had a similar problem with my car. You do not state where you are from nor what year car you have. But, based on what you are describing, i would say that your problem lies with the steering rack under the car (assuming a right hand drive car). On my car, what I found was the lines for the steering rack made a funny angle just inside the front tire. This put stress on the union and would cause it to leak. Because of the tray under the car, I would not see any leakage, but I could smell some hot fluid. To fix this, I ended up getting a new set of lines with the cooler in it and I could remove the one line that made the sharp bend (made like a 135 degree bend at the end). I seem to recall opening up the bend so that it was not pressed against the frame of the car. This allowed the joint to not be under stress and leak. If you get under the car, you will see where the line attaches to the steering rack and then has a metal end to it and where it transitions back to a rubber hose, that point is where it contacts the frame. Bend the metal tubing slightly to give some clearance and you are good. Probably will need to replace the o-ring on the end of the hose and then refill the system as you are going to drain it when you disconnect the hose.

 

Sorry, did not mention - model is XJ 2010 3.0D. The car is LHD.
But you have a good point. Will try to check that out. Maybe try to reach that part with hand in blind to feel if there are any oil spills.
Also found this thread on XK8 forum. Looks like this also could be the issue
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...de-car-254696/

 

Are you in the Uk . Going by it's a diesel , I think you are , manifolds are a big problem on the diesels and by your patchy description I would say one has gone before . If that's the case normally the two would get replaced as the other one would not be long behind , as you are experiencing now , more big bills to come

 

I'm ftom Lithuania, eastern Europe. I will have to check if only one or both manifold covers were changed last time. Probably just one. As i asked service to retunr the old one to see the problem.
But why you mentioned big bills? Cover itself is not so expensive.

 

Hi the cover is only a couple hundred each but on top of that labour costs to remove and fit new ones is high as engine comes out , vasra is your man he's from Sweden and is very knowledgeable on the Diesel engines will give you the best advice a real nice guy

 

Norbertas: I think you have found the issue already, if you did need to add 1 litre oil for the power steering system. Oil is propably sprayed by airflow to the hot exhaust parts where its burns and make the smell. Take the car to the lift and remove undertray. Follow the hints given by Thermo earlier on this thread.
Ps: George: I live in Finland, but close enough

 

If we are talking about this cover, this was changed withour removing engine. Did not check the second one yet, but here are the pictures of first crack.


Crack close-up


View from inside

Thanks for mentionong Vasara, he already helped me a lot. He looks like walking Jagopedia

 

hello
one question here.
o bit of engine smell under the bonnet.
On idlle, no signs. With bonnet opened, and foot on the acceleration, a few revs, at about 1500+ rpm, on the 3rd.…4th pedal, a bit of smoke from the left (driver side on left hand drive). My impression is that smoke is coming out when revs are going down after acceleration, and turbo is not doing any more boost. So….. When revs are going to idle, smoke comes. A bit….. And not fast. From the middle lateral of the engine, egr area.
Initially a tough its exhaust manifold, or turbo, or egr.
But could it be the plastic cap from the rockers?
And how do I check it? The crack is visible? I haven't took of the plastic cover.…. But if its from there? Are there signs its that the motive? I don't know…. Like smoke residue, oil….. On the cover, on the engine?

 

Usually where it leaks its oily on intake side and black carbon on exhaust side.
To see valvecovers/inlets you need to peek under soft sound absorbing material.

 

So….. Under the engine plastic cover, if the valve cover is cracked should be some residue on the plastic valve cap.

 

So…. I took a look under the engine cover at thplastic cover of the rockers. Seems to be ok. Egr….. Seems to be ok. But…. In the driver side corner of the engine, on the lowersider, where I guess its the turbo, you can see in the pict that is something oily over there. In the corner…. Towards the firewall.

Egr area



Rocker cover area…. Injectors….. Seems ok. Please have opinions

And….. Down under.… over there in the corner...


Just under the reddish copper looking pipe….. Some oily area. Its the turbo zne?

Ideas?
Just got the turbos refurbed In a specialized big shop here…… and I heard that are numerous examples of failed turbo in 1-2 monts since refurb at the same firm. The refurb was 850 euros. Only the refurb.Can you tell me….. Turbos can get off the car without engine of the car? Again?

So…. Please…. Opinions and ideas are wellcomed

 

From my eye spot the injectors are bit wet? (bypass pipes?)

 

they looked a bit wet for me too. But no moisture at the bottom of the injector place. Think its just moisture from not cleaning after the last job done there….. Rockers replaced and chain. I touch with my finger but I think is not fresh vapour.

Can I get the turbo out with the engine in place?

 

So….. Follow up on the smoke and smell
Left hand drive car
Driver turbo smoking a bit from the plastic tube connection from the head of the turbo

The back is ok.

Passenger side turbo oily on the dpf gasket. And some oil on the same side in the v section that comes from the intercooler do the turbo. Verry slim oil traces on the other side ov the splitter from the intercooler.



All this after couple of hundred km.
Just got them refurbed in a big specialized shop for 800 euro.
Now….. Guess the refurb is under warranty….. And.…… engine down for taking out the turbo. Labor? Oil? Coolant? And so on.

Word on the mechanics area and shops is that the shop…. And all shops use china parts for refurbing turbos.

I will try to make a legal complaint to the state prosecutor for cheating clients with under quality parts.

May be some dpf problems due to oil in exhaust.

Questions: driver side turbo…. The plastic pipe to it, has a gasket? Can someone help with parts code? And maybe for the pipe itself?

 

ONE question for the wise!!!!!!

What should be the oil level for a x351 with 190.000 km?

Mine is one interval down from the max!
And I suspect that's not good! For the following reasons: at 190.000 km for sure there is wear and tear on the piston rings. Although…… I can still see factory booring zigzag marks on the sleeve, the piston action area was a bit shiny. Factory horizontal scuffing was present still. So…. Chances for some blow by. To a point normal with the age and miles. But…… there was some carbonization on the plugs and that reads... Blow by.… oil in the piston…. And toooooo much wear and tear on the piston rings.
All that, plus a higher oil level could cause more pressure in the sump and too much pressure on the turbo return pipes. Am I correct that's a pretty good chance?
In addition, a new oil pump on a 200.000 km engine with a almost full oil…… not to good for motor?
I was doing one bar short of full because of noisy tappets but now there replaced. And not necessary any more.
Ps:1 the amount of carbon on plugs was… not small and dust
2. Didn't took a cylinder pressure on the engine. I think its time to do it.
3. ….. And that's a question, how to take 200-300 ml oil out, to make the level 2 bars down and on the middle? By big syringe in any way? Under the car from the drain?
4. I suspect some leaks from the air Intake system and recirculation.…. And some boost loss. Would this translate into a poor suction of gases via pcv valve? And extra pressure in the sump that could block the turbo return pipe?

Man…. I know I'm to much with these questions. But I really don't have anyone to help. Jaguar and land rover tecks only know “new engine” to anything and other shops……they just aren't good or are just ripoff tecks!

Romania is NOT a good country for jaguar land rover! These cars are rare, and tecks are impossible!
Please help 🆘!!!!!!

 

Suction pipe works for removing oil, That is how many of us do regular oil changes. Getting the undertray off (without ramps) is a complete pain.

 

Suction pipe…. From turbo? Or from where?
From m where.….. On top of the engine, you get the oil out by suction?

 

There is a pipe you can connect to at the top right hand side of engine (covered with small black cap) where a dipstick would be sensibly situated!
Can suck directly from the pipe (if you can get a good seal). It may be possible to pass a thin pipe down it but never tried.

 

great answer. Thanks. I know it