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I picked up a MIL with a P2402 code on my 2012 XJ. . I had just filled the tank to full, driven 3 miles then parked under a blistering sun for 90mins. The code cleared, and has not returned on 6x On/Off cycles. The code indicates an EVAP pump failure, which requires dropping the diff to replace, any advice greatly appreciated.
Hey wombat. I had this happen on my 2011 around 80,000 miles. Turns out the canister itself actually was cracked, but I changed that out with an eBay used one as well as a new pump. Total for those two items were about $200, and had a very decent deal at a shop who did the work for $350.
After those were swapped out, no more code. And yes, you are correct, the rear does need to be dropped.
It could, however, be a false positive, and indicative of a fuel filler line collapse or leak, but just something to keep an eye on I guess.
Thanks for the feedback. I was leaning towards a scenario where I'd put 19 gallons of, relatively, cold fuel into a warm tank and then baked it at 105Ffor 90mins.
I don't drive this car very often, and had left it off the CTEK for a week or so (my bad), I went to drive her today and the doors wouldn't open just by pulling the handle and the windows went all wacky....Bulb goes off in head! The battery is 6 years old and is well past its sell by date.
Off to get a new battery in the morning, then sell her.....Or then again!
I'm not going anywhere, still got the 575 and the nagger's F-Pace! I've kept the 2012 N/A for two reasons;
1. The 575 is not the most relaxing car to drive in traffic....well, if I'm honest, anywhere! If you don't concentrate, you'll be doing silly speeds in a heat beat.
2. I often leave for work v early. If I "forget" to put the 575 back to normal mode, it'll wake up every dog, cat, child or dinosaur within a 1000 miles. I then take the 2012.
3. I don't like selling cars that I've lived with, and loved, for a significant part of my life. It, at least to me, is not just an "appliance". I kept my XK8 for 15 years then someone offered me silly money for what really was a garage brick that never moved......OK, that's 3 reasons.
Carbon canister, EVAP pump and fuel neck replaced.
It involves dropping the whole rear end just to get at the canister and pump. In my case, all the electrical connections were fine, but the canister looked like it had been part of Noah's Ark!!!
They completed the job for the quoted price in the TSB (5.5hrs)...they needed the car for 6 days as they struggled with the rear sub-frame!!
Bonus points for doing the job on cost, swapping out other worn components (bushes, drop links etc) without any extra charge AND giving me a 2020 F-Pace SVR to blast with for a week.
After reading a few posts including this one from Wombat and others including (at least) one that has the related NTSB field service bulletin, I don't understand why the preventative portion of the fix/corrective action isn't performed until after the costly failure occurs.
The corrective action is to replace the damaged canister & pump assembly along with the fuel filler neck, and install the cheap, easy to access foam piece that prevents the damage from happening afterwards.
Why wait until the expensive & difficult to access part to fail before installing the foam block to prevent it from happening in the first place?
I can understand why the NTSB can't force a recall since the failure doesn't pose a safety issue. If the EPA had any leverage, I could see that they might pressure JLR to mitigate a known failure of the emissions control system. But that didn't happen.
But the point is, it would be much cheaper easier and better just to preventatively install the barrier just behind the right rear wheel well liner before the cannister gets fouled by water getting into it.
I didn't come across these posts until the check engine light popped-up for a P2402 fault in my wife's XJ last week.
I'm glad Wombat, Clubairth1 & all others posted your experiences with it.
Had I looked into it in detail earlier & understood the whole scenario I'm pretty sure I would have found a piece of suitable shipping foam (or suitable alternative) as identified in the NTSB service bulletin and installed it, but then again these things don't seem that important until a failure actually hits us in the face.
But from where I'm sitting now, I certainly suggest that anyone that hasn't had this failure yet takes the very easy & inexpensive preventative measure of getting something in that right rear wheel well to prevent it from happening.
Attached is the service bulletin that (I think) Clubairth1 provided for another relevant post.
That's a great post @12jagmark , thank you!
I have a 2016 with a higher VIN, I'll try to remember to look and see if the foam is already there. It looks like C2D49253 is (unsurprisingly) expensive, at least $200. If it's not terrible to remove, and I have it in my car, I'll try to get some measurements.
Yes thank you! I never looked too deep into that and since I live where freezing temperatures are rare I probably won't run into this failure. But it looks so simple that I too would like to install this protective foam piece now BEFORE I run into problems but that cost is obscene for a piece of foam!
Yes it seems to be chunk of foam for $277!
If anyone can provide some measurements I would be grateful!
The tech bulletin almost shows the entire piece of foam so I guess if I got it close it would still work.
Today while I was installing a new brake pad wear sensor wire I decide to take a look at the DMTL filter and the two pipes mentioned in the above Service Bulletin. There was a fair amount of dried mud and stuff above the plastic inner wheel arch but I did not find any foam described in the SB. There was some foam wrapped in clear plastic above the DMTL filter and the fuel filler neck. I removed the DMTL filter and cleaned it up on the outside and it turns out to be a Fomoco part. It is plastic with a pleated filter inside, air is sucked through a pleated filter through a series of slots around the top and bottom of the plastic case. I have attached pics showing the the DMTL filter, and pipes.
It would be easy enough to replace this filter assuming it is available and cheap. DMTL Filter in place and stainless steel pipes Fomoco P/N New rear brake pad sensor (passenger side rear)
..I removed the DMTL filter and cleaned it up on the outside and it turns out to be a Fomoco part. It is plastic with a pleated filter inside, air is sucked through a pleated filter through a series of slots around the top and bottom of the plastic case. I have attached pics showing the the DMTL filter, and pipes.
It would be easy enough to replace this filter assuming it is available and cheap.
Was this on your 2014 XJ?
And this filter you posted pics of wasn't the one that the pump is connected to, that the rea suspension has to be cropped just to get access to?
Yes this is on my 2014. It is on the suction pipe to the DMTL pump, which is attached closely to the Evap Cannister. Both of which are mounted above the rear diff. The suction pipe extends next to the fuel filler pipe in the wheel well and you can see where the DMTL filter is attached in the first picture of my post. There is good diagram in the Service Manual. section Evaporative Emissions-Component Location (for North American Specification)
Last edited by Six Rotors; Jan 11, 2026 at 08:17 PM.
Thanks for posting those great pictures too! It appears that JLR does not service this separately from the fuel filler tubes either. In JPART it only lists the entire assembly (#6).
But that Ford part number (3M51-9B995-BA) does seem to be available and it does look like what you have.
Here is a brand new one for around $100 with shipping. DMTL Filter
Surprising there is a Dorman version which looks very close but has a different mounting tab and of course much cheaper ($40) too! Might work and you would need to make some small modifications to get it installed.
Great ebay search skills! It also appears that Jaguar are still using the same part number filter in a slightly different configuration in the 2017-2020 F-Pace. I plan to get a spare used filter off a newer F-Pace.
When I had my P2402 code on the '12, it was the carbon canister, and pump, mounted above the rear axle and not the DMTL pump. The piece of foam mentioned in the TSB protects the carbon canister from road spray and filth.
The pump on the cannister(which is mounted above the rear axle IS the DMTL pump. Check the Service Manual pictures--there is only one pump connected to the carbon cannister(called the EVAP cannister) and it is the DMTL pump. It draws air through a long pipe terminating with the DMTL filter near the gas filler pipe and cap.
The pump on the cannister(which is mounted above the rear axle IS the DMTL pump. Check the Service Manual pictures--there is only one pump connected to the carbon cannister(called the EVAP cannister) and it is the DMTL pump. It draws air through a long pipe terminating with the DMTL filter near the gas filler pipe and cap.
Read the Service Bulletin and you will see the CAUSE---water mud and general crap thrown up by the rear tire plugs the DMTL filter and or gets sucked through the filter into the DMTL suction pipe causing havoc in the pipe, pump and/or the cannister. The foam is to protect the DMTL filter. You can see how it might do that if you pull the inner wheel arch.
Last edited by Six Rotors; Jan 12, 2026 at 01:53 PM.
Good research on the cause of the failure! I am with Wombat that the pump is horrible to remove being above the rear diff carrier. So if we can prevent this upper filter from ingesting crap and debris that "should" save the DMTL pump from failing? Seems a worthwhile thing to do. I still need to get my car on a lift because the TSB is a bit confusing to me right now as I have never looked into that area.
I had a possible code and did purchase a used DMTL pump/canister assembly just in case. Still have it! When I saw where it was located I decided that anything would be better than tackling that job! Turned out that I did not need to replace it.
If anyone needs one?
I now need to get a piece of foam to do what the TSB shows.
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Thanks for the picture. Interesting that JLR breaks out the DMTL filter on that diagram but does NOT offer that part separately? Kinda surprised.
#1 is what I purchased as a spare.
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P2402
