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Piston won't retract into caliper while changing rear brake pads on 2012 Jaguar XJL S
This is my first time changing brake pads on my Jaguar XJL Supersport. The quote from Brakes to Go was $1,700 because they wanted to use all OEM parts.
Is there a trick to getting the piston back in the caliber? The piston wasn't stuck, there's no brake fluid leaks, and the was pretty clean. I have all the tools to put it back in and it won't budge.
Please help and would love your advice. Piston isn't stuck and I closed it even further to see if was stuck. Can't budge back. I've tried both these reverse clamps - no-go.
They just overcharge: Brakes are made OEM by ATE not JLR. You can get original ATE parts from aftermarket channel if you want, or use any good quality parts like Brembo, Ferodo, TWR, Febi... Exsample rear pads are same than used in same era Ford Focus. (Ferodo ones 18€ (aprox 20USD) set on our local parts shop, ATE 16€. Disks are 100-280€ pair depending manufacturer: Aware: Lot of counterfeit disks on market. If you get quality disks, check that box have holograms, warning leaflets etc inside and the disks itself look well made. Counterfeit disks are not made by the standards of quality needed and can warp or even crack very fast in use. Been returned 4-5 sets myself. https://www.ferodo.com/en-in/trainin...unterfeit.html https://www.brembo.com/en/company/ne...ognizing-fakes
Rear pistons are retract by rotating and pushing inwards (gentle!) same time. They have self adjusting mechanics for handbrake. Once you had them fully retracted you can add new pads. Then after assembled back with disks etc, use the handbrake cable lever several times on each caliber by hand (or pliers) to pre-adjust the extra play off from pistons/pads. Youtube have lot of videos. Method is same for all vehicles using ATE rear calibers with integrated cable handbrake. After that you can calibrate the handbrake by turning ignition On and using the handbrake by switch.: It will tell you on instrumentation screen if calibration its needed and how to do it. (when well done pre-adjust, the system do not even notice the change of rear pads)
Note: Above instruction is for pre-facelift. Facelift have different rear brake calibers and an Diag Tool is needed to retract the pistons.
jschimmels, the trick to getting the rear calipers to retract in is to crack open the bleed port and let the extra fluid go out the bleed port, not be pushed back through the ABS unit. You shouldn't push fluid backwards through the unit in the first place, but it makes doing a rear caliper change about impossible. Now, you will need to bleed the rear brakes when you put everything back together, but if you are like most, this will be a good time to swap the fluid anyways. Also keep in mind that one side goes clockwise and the other goes counterclockwise. Forget which side is which.
Thermo: On Pre-Facelift ATE system there are no harm to push fluid backwards. The ABS valveblock is open when ignition is Off. Agree that it make piston go easier in and its very good practice to change the fluid same go.
(should be changed in every 3 years)
They just overcharge: Brakes are made OEM by ATE not JLR. You can get original ATE parts from aftermarket channel if you want, or use any good quality parts like Brembo, Ferodo, TWR, Febi... Exsample rear pads are same than used in same era Ford Focus. (Ferodo ones 18€ (aprox 20USD) set on our local parts shop, ATE 16€. Disks are 100-280€ pair depending manufacturer: Aware: Lot of counterfeit disks on market. If you get quality disks, check that box have holograms, warning leaflets etc inside and the disks itself look well made. Counterfeit disks are not made by the standards of quality needed and can warp or even crack very fast in use. Been returned 4-5 sets myself. https://www.ferodo.com/en-in/trainin...unterfeit.html https://www.brembo.com/en/company/ne...ognizing-fakes
Rear pistons are retract by rotating and pushing inwards (gentle!) same time. They have self adjusting mechanics for handbrake. Once you had them fully retracted you can add new pads. Then after assembled back with disks etc, use the handbrake cable lever several times on each caliber by hand (or pliers) to pre-adjust the extra play off from pistons/pads. Youtube have lot of videos. Method is same for all vehicles using ATE rear calibers with integrated cable handbrake. After that you can calibrate the handbrake by turning ignition On and using the handbrake by switch.: It will tell you on instrumentation screen if calibration its needed and how to do it. (when well done pre-adjust, the system do not even notice the change of rear pads)
Note: Above instruction is for pre-facelift. Facelift have different rear brake calibers and an Diag Tool is needed to retract the pistons.
Thank you for the advice. I saw the Ate logo. I couldn't find any Jaguar replacement part that matched the red calipers.
jschimmels, the trick to getting the rear calipers to retract in is to crack open the bleed port and let the extra fluid go out the bleed port, not be pushed back through the ABS unit. You shouldn't push fluid backwards through the unit in the first place, but it makes doing a rear caliper change about impossible. Now, you will need to bleed the rear brakes when you put everything back together, but if you are like most, this will be a good time to swap the fluid anyways. Also keep in mind that one side goes clockwise and the other goes counterclockwise. Forget which side is which.
Great advice - it worked. I opened the bleeder port and it help push it back. I really appreciate it. Thank you.