Hello from NC. Hey, I have followed your repair scheme here. Need your help. Is the stabilizer bar #C2D10278 perfectly flat? (In the shop picture, it is item #2) I ask because I bought one from eBay and it is NOT flat to a table top? Can you let me know?

 

Barak, hello from NC. Hey, I have followed your repair scheme here. Need your help. Is the stabilizer bar #C2D10278 perfectly flat? (In the pics it is item #2) I ask because I bought one from eBay and it is NOT flat to a table top? The first pic is the end of the bracket and the other is the black line in the middle of the pic and is some 3/8's of an inch off of 180 degrees flat. Help!!! Can you let me know?

 

GRIFF, Hello from NC. Hey, I have followed your repair scheme here. Need your help. Is the stabilizer bar #C2D10278 perfectly flat? (Item #2 in the diagram) I ask because I bought one from eBay and it is NOT flat to a table top? Can you let me know?

 

Hi NC, I would say your part will be much better than the rusted/oxidized part you are removing, and you should be able to torque your bolts down to help straighten the part against the undercarriage. My only concern would be alignment of bolt holes, but I think 3/8” is doable.

 

Hi, this is a bushing on top of the rear subframe left and right brackets to the connecting brace we discussed in this post. See my image of the removed brackets before and after for the bottom piece.

 

Griff, this is what I am doing now. The rear, subframe, brace bracket extension. Mine is bent from an accident and it is compressed in pic #1. The new one is pic #2. When you replaced yours, did you have issues with the bracket being under tension? You mentioned this "captive nut" in a bad place. My X351 is a 2015 am I facing the same issues or is this extension bar an easy fix?

 

jaguarguy100, replacing this part is supposed to be easy unless you encounter the rust damage to the captive nut in the subframe. To prevent breaking this captive nut free from the frame mount, I suggest a generous bath in lubricant to loosen things up!

here’s what’s google AI suggests to get past a seized bolt:


1. Penetrating Oil:

• Apply penetrating oil (like WD-40, Kroil, or PB Blaster) to the bolt and threads.

• Let it soak for 15-30 minutes, or even overnight for heavily rusted bolts.

• The oil will help to lubricate and loosen the corrosion.

2. Hammering (Optional):

• Tap the bolt head with a hammer to help break the rust bond.

• You can also use a pair of hammers, hitting opposite sides of the nut to jolt the threads loose.

3. Trying to Unscrew:

• Use a wrench or socket wrench, making sure it fits properly and doesn't round off the bolt head.

• If the bolt is stubborn, use a breaker bar or cheater bar to apply more leverage.

• Work the bolt back and forth, gradually loosening it.

4. Heat (If Necessary):

• If hammering and loosening efforts fail, heat can be applied to the bolt.

• A propane torch can be used to heat the bolt, causing it to expand.

• Be careful not to overheat the surrounding materials, especially if they are flammable.

• Once cooled, try loosening the bolt again, potentially applying more penetrating oil.

5. Drilling and Easy-Outs/Screw Extractors (If Bolt Head is Damaged):

• If the bolt head is rounded or damaged, you may need to drill a pilot hole.

• Then, use an easy-out or a screw extractor to remove the remaining bolt.

• These tools are designed to grip the threads of the bolt and reverse them out.

6. Other Considerations:

• If the bolt is heavily rusted or seized, you may need to cut it off and replace it.

• Be patient and persistent, as removing a seized bolt can be a time-consuming process.

• If you are unsure about any of these steps, consult a professional.