I drive a 2016 Jaguar XJ L Portfolio 3.0L AWD

Just a couple weeks ago, I noticed that whenever I am driving at night, my infotainment screen, headlights, and audio would occasionally either turn on, disconnect, or flicker as if there was a weak connection, and just today, as I was driving to work, I lost power in the engine. The car would just rev and not accelerate the vehicle. Pulling over and turning the vehicle off and on, seemed to do the trick temporarily and I was able to get to work.

There is a frayed cable next to the oil filter that I had frayed whenever I was first changing the oil out on the vehicle. I was using a universal oil filter remover because I couldn't find the right size oil filter wrench online. Fast forward a year later, and now I'm getting electrical issues. (eventually I did, which is a 89mm/ 15 flutes oil filter wrench, Model 907). I stopped by my O'Reilly's and had them do an alternator check, which they said it's running 14v which is good, and same with the battery.

What I plan on doing is going to a salvage yard and finding a replacement plug and solder it together, so that way I won't have electrical issues, or pay thousands in repairs for a wiring harness.

Much appreciated

Cable that has exposed copper.

 

Those wires are for the bank 1 (passenger side) intake camshaft variable cam timing control.
That shouldn't have anything to do with the circuits you identified that are having problems, but if they do short together by touching it would interfere with your engine performance and it would throw an OBD code.

 

I think you need to get the car hooked up and scanned with Jaguar's SDD system. All those events will be recorded and maybe that will point you in the right direction.

As posted by 12jagmark above that is the VVT harness and if bad will be throwing VVT codes. So doubtful that's your problem but frayed wires are never good at any rate!

These cars have a BMS system so normal checks don't really help. What is the resting DC voltage of the car after it has sat all night? How old is the battery?
Let's start with the easy stuff first but you will need to find a way to get access to a working SDD system.
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The age of the battery is not stated on the battery itself. Looks like from factory.

With the car off, the voltage is reading 12v, while running it jumps up to 14v, same with the alternator. The positive terminal was slightly loose, so I went ahead and tightened it. Started the car and I didn't notice any of the interior lights dimming or flickering, and staring at the headlights for 5 minutes with the car running, there was no flicker. Going on a test drive now to see if anything has changed.

After the drive: No flicker, all the lights were on inside the car, even the rear vanity mirrors, and there was nothing. Drove like normal. I still plan on going and getting a replacement VVT harness, I just have to locate an engine that has it.

 

That would do it.

 

ALL batteries are dated by law. Just like tires.
Here is how to find and decipher the date on your battery.
Battery Date

With what you have posted the battery looks to be the prime suspect. Change it out as 12 VDC is too low.
Again what it's reading while running only tells you if the alternator is charging it tells you nothing about the battery or it's condition.

Since you did find a problem. See if the voltage comes back up over night with the better battery connections. Generally you want to 12.6 VDC at a minimum after siting all night.

But see if you can decode the battery date as I think you will find it's time for a replacement.
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Great advice - it probably wasn't able to charge fully with a loose or corroded connection.
The systems operate off of the battery, so an intermittent connection would give you glitches. Hopefully it didn't damage your regulator (within the alternator) but since you read 14VDC from the alternator it should have avoided damage.

As far as the bare wires at the (very expensive)) cable harness, you may be able to cover & insulate the exposed wires with a flexible epoxy. I would say silicone sealant, but since silicone may migrate down to the connections & interfere with signals (not likely but possible) it might be better to use something like a Latex sealant more like an Alex sealant (like used for sealing around household windows & sills).
But before you do, clean the bare wires with a little alcohol & small brush to clean away what otherwise could turn into corrosion down the road.

 

...And if you'd rather replace the connector outright, without having to deal with the rest of the harness, Rock Auto has a replacement connector pigtail available from Uro Parts for a little over $22 each.
Here's the link to it:

More Information for ÜRO PARTS LR061705

or :
2012 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER 5.0L V8 Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid Connector | RockAuto

 

Good find!
Always difficult to get the correct plug. The ones on the engine get cooked.
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