XJ ( X351 ) 2009 - 2019

Water Pump Blues!

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  #1  
Old 07-31-2017, 10:02 AM
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Exclamation Water Pump Blues!

Morning guys. Its been a while since Ive been on here which is usually a good sign. In my case its because the last Jag I had before my current one was crashed into. I then bought a 2014 XJL Portfolio Supercharged and have fallen in love all over again! I have had it since February and been problem free except for two weeks ago. Like many who have posted on here, my water pump or perhaps just the O-ring that goes on the back connecting plastic pipe went bad and began leaking antifreeze everywhere. I did some research on here and was disappointed to see that this is a common issue and has yet to be fully rectified by Jaguar. That said, I purchased a new aftermarket water pump that came with a new connecting pipe and o-ring. I looked for a walk through on how to do it and ended up just free handing it as I could not find any. After installing the waterpump I still had the leak coming from the rear. Turns out there are two o-rings that need replacing and not just one. I ordered a new o-ring and waited the week for shipping. Yesterday I finally got the time to take out the pump yet again and put the new o-ring. And what do you know? Its still leaking. I am not sure if there is a method on how to install the o-rings? Perhaps someone can shed some light on this? Thanks guy!
 
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:04 PM
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You sure you're not still under warranty?
 
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Old 07-31-2017, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JagGate
You sure you're not still under warranty?

Unfortunately no, I got it at a great price but the only downside was that it had 77000 miles at the time of purchase.
 
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:27 PM
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Check out this post,
When I did mine turned out needed more parts.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-list-177921/
 
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:57 PM
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I checked those other parts and they all look intact. I've replaced both o rings and the cross over pipe. Everything is new including bolts gaskets, etc. The only thing that I had break on me is in the picture. But that isn't what's leaking strangely enough.
 
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:58 PM
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Like you said water pump is a common problem. What would be the cost if you have the dealer repair this for you?
 
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:26 AM
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To help find my leak (after removing the pump 4 times)
Everything Looked good
I ended up getting an endoscope and feeding it behind the pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Waterproof-borescope-inspection-1280x960/dp/B072JGXPLX/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1501586668&sr=8-7&keywords=endoscope https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Waterproof-borescope-inspection-1280x960/dp/B072JGXPLX/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1501586668&sr=8-7&keywords=endoscope

This is the one I got worked like a charm.
If you do end up changing the outlet pipe you will have to remove the intake not too hard a job, but you will need to remove the gas crossover line be careful here because the fuel pump runs when you unlock the car to pressurize the system.
Let us know what you find.
 

Last edited by Paulc732; 08-01-2017 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 08-01-2017, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by retriever-007
Like you said water pump is a common problem. What would be the cost if you have the dealer repair this for you?
From what I gather this job would be in the +1000 area which is ridiculous hence why I gave it a try myself
 
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Old 08-01-2017, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Paulc732
To help find my leak (after removing the pump 4 times)
Everything Looked good
I ended up getting an endoscope and feeding it behind the pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Wat...ords=endoscope

This is the one I got worked like a charm.
If you do end up changing the outlet pipe you will have to remove the intake not too hard a job, but you will need to remove the gas crossover line be careful here because the fuel pump runs when you unlock the car to pressurize the system.
Let us know what you find.
When fed the endoscope behind the pump, what did you find? How did you correct the leaking issue?
 
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Old 08-01-2017, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by etaent
When fed the endoscope behind the pump, what did you find? How did you correct the leaking issue?
I could see the coolant flowing from the pump outlet pipe the Hard black pipe that comes up behind the coolant pump part number AJ89664,
When I removed it to replace It crumbled in my hand where it inserted into the engine block. (59K miles just for a reference)
here is a pic of the part.(taken from an ebay auction)


 
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  #11  
Old 08-01-2017, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Paulc732
I could see the coolant flowing from the pump outlet pipe the Hard black pipe that comes up behind the coolant pump part number AJ89664,
When I removed it to replace It crumbled in my hand where it inserted into the engine block. (59K miles just for a reference)
here is a pic of the part.(taken from an ebay auction)

I will take a look later today and see if that is also broken as something is definitely leaking in there badly. Thanks again!
 
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:49 PM
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Ok so after finally getting a good angle with the endoscope I was finally able to find where the leak was coming from. It was coming from that plastic pipe that looks like a Y mentioned in a previous post. Here is a picture of the pipe I'm referring to. But now I have another problem, how do I remove and replace it?
 
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:24 PM
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If its the pipe as shown in post#10
you will have to remove the intake manifold.
Very easy to do if you take your time.
be careful with the electrical connection near the fire wall and take lots of pictures.
I recommend just cutting the tie wraps (you will see them) that hold the wires to the knock sensors and replace with new.
I used these.
Uxcell Nylon Auto Car Dome Fir Tree Mount Cable Tie 183mmx5mm 30 Pcs Black | eBay

You will see a chrome pipe going across the front of the manifold that has to be removed. this is the fuel supply so do not unlock the car when you have this removed as this starts the fuel priming (ask me how i know )

I reused my seals just turned them over and used a little silicon paste in the groove in the intake manifold worked for me but you may want to replace.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502753165&sr=8-1&keywords=silicone+paste https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502753165&sr=8-1&keywords=silicone+paste

Can also use this to lube the slide pins on you breaks.

Good luck but take your time and you will be fine
 

Last edited by Paulc732; 08-14-2017 at 06:27 PM. Reason: added link to amazon
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2017, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Paulc732
If its the pipe as shown in post#10
you will have to remove the intake manifold.
Very easy to do if you take your time.
be careful with the electrical connection near the fire wall and take lots of pictures.
I recommend just cutting the tie wraps (you will see them) that hold the wires to the knock sensors and replace with new.
I used these.
Uxcell Nylon Auto Car Dome Fir Tree Mount Cable Tie 183mmx5mm 30 Pcs Black | eBay

You will see a chrome pipe going across the front of the manifold that has to be removed. this is the fuel supply so do not unlock the car when you have this removed as this starts the fuel priming (ask me how i know )

I reused my seals just turned them over and used a little silicon paste in the groove in the intake manifold worked for me but you may want to replace.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clea...silicone+paste

Can also use this to lube the slide pins on you breaks.

Good luck but take your time and you will be fine
Thanks Paul! So just a couple of questions.

1-You said not to unlock the car when removing the fuel pipe, do you mean opening the door or literally not having the car unlocked? I need to unlock it to open the hood so I am a bit confused.

2-You said silicone paste for the intake, do you mean if I resuse the old gasket? Would it be better just to replace the gasket? I see they are relatively cheap online.

3-When you say slide pins, what are you referring to? I never took apart an intake on a british car before so I just want to have as much info as possible! Thank you!
 
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by etaent
Thanks Paul! So just a couple of questions.

1-You said not to unlock the car when removing the fuel pipe, do you mean opening the door or literally not having the car unlocked? I need to unlock it to open the hood so I am a bit confused .


2-You said silicone paste for the intake, do you mean if I resuse the old gasket? Would it be better just to replace the gasket? I see they are relatively cheap online.

3-When you say slide pins, what are you referring to? I never took apart an intake on a british car before so I just want to have as much info as possible! Thank you!
Sorry for the confusion.
1. Leave the car unlocked when the fuel pipe is off and you will be OK it is the the action of unlocking the car starts the pump.

2. I would use new gaskets I was under a time crunch so reused mine.

3. The slide pins are on the breaks nothing to do with the intake just saying that the silicon paste can be used in other places.

again sorry for the confusion here.
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Paulc732
Sorry for the confusion.
1. Leave the car unlocked when the fuel pipe is off and you will be OK it is the the action of unlocking the car starts the pump.

2. I would use new gaskets I was under a time crunch so reused mine.

3. The slide pins are on the breaks nothing to do with the intake just saying that the silicon paste can be used in other places.

again sorry for the confusion here.
So I gave a wack at getting this done yesterday and as it turns out I bought the wrong gasket. The one i bought is for the upper portion of the intake but it would seem i need the one for the lower half. That said, I am stuck on what to do next. I have removed all the bolts that i can see, the three torque screws that are on the inside screwed into the supercharger, and the three on the bottom going to the air inlet. But nothing is budging. I also see black dirt (See pic) and wonder if this is a problem? Thanks Paul!


 
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:56 AM
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Well im happy to say that I was able to successfully remove the supercharger and galleys. Turns out the dowels underneath were badly corroded and needed some extra force. I replaced the Y pipe that goes behind the supercharger and sorted the leak. Thanks again for all the help guys!
 
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Old 08-01-2018, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by etaent
From what I gather this job would be in the +1000 area which is ridiculous hence why I gave it a try myself
Is that all? Dealer here in Vegas told me it was nearer a $2k job due to the presence of the supercharger.

My 2012 XJ needed a new motor after a catastrophic pump failure on the interstate. I dumped it after the engine had been in and out twice. I'm still debating if I will replace it with another or go to another brand.
 
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:38 AM
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The new outlet pipe under the supercharger is redesigned top and bottom without seams which are the leak source along with the oring stations on the pipe intself. Do not reuse the sc lower intake gasket or any othe steel gasket. They are definitly 1 use and will leak. O rings are okay for reuse as long as not crushed, flatened. I use 3m silicone paste on eveything on the pump for ease of assembly on all the orings and includine the 4 bolts that go into the aluminum block as they can seize and snap off and i dont want to be the one to deal with that issue if i can prevent it. Since you have removed the pump again you should replaced the wp steel gaskets to the block for the afformentions issue. Oh and your next leak will be the heater pipe on the back of the block that contains a temp sensor and the throttle and heater core hose connections. that leak will be down he back of the engine and down the sides of the trans. Since you have gone this far you may just want to fully remove the sc and replace that pipe. it is a much bigger pain that what you have done so far. But you're already into soooooo.
 

Last edited by Brutal; 08-02-2018 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
The new outlet pipe under the supercharger is redesigned top and bottom without seams which are the leak source along with the oring stations on the pipe intself. Do not reuse the sc lower intake gasket or any othe steel gasket. They are definitly 1 use and will leak. O rings are okay for reuse as long as not crushed, flatened. I use 3m silicone paste on eveything on the pump for ease of assembly on all the orings and includine the 4 bolts that go into the aluminum block as they can seize and snap off and i dont want to be the one to deal with that issue if i can prevent it. Since you have removed the pump again you should replaced the wp steel gaskets to the block for the afformentions issue. Oh and your next leak will be the heater pipe on the back of the block that contains a temp sensor and the throttle and heater core hose connections. that leak will be down he back of the engine and down the sides of the trans. Since you have gone this far you may just want to fully remove the sc and replace that pipe. it is a much bigger pain that what you have done so far. But you're already into soooooo.
Hahaha thanks Brutal! I already buttoned everything up so hopefully that issue doesnt occur any time soon!
 



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