For anyone that is thinking about doing their own water pump, I have a few things to pass on that you might find useful.

When pulling stuff apart, there is a bolt on the right side of the thermostat (as you are looking at the engine, somewhat under the air box). Remove the air box and then pull out the bolt. Trust me, it will save you a lot of aggravation in trying to get things back together and will also allow you to get the water pump in its proper place before having to connect up the coolant hoses.

When aligning the water pump on re-assembly, leave the inlet hose off and make sure you get the short cooler hose in its proper position before pushing things up tight. If you force things, odds are you are going to bend the cooler line and then it is going to become a royal PITA with leaks that you can't see.

Be careful with all the plastic parts. As some of us have found out and my dealership tells me, the plastic pieces become brittle with age/heat. So, especially the line going from the overflow bottle to the area around the throttle body, that breaks really easy. My dealership has a standard that they just replace that part because of how brittle it becomes. In my case, I think a lot of what I was battling was the outlet hose (big plastic tube coming from behind the water pump and up to the right side of the water pump as you are looking at the engine) more than likely developed a small crack and that was my actual leak, not a failing water pump. When I went to remove the outlet hose, I broke the o-rings off inside the block. Easy to get out, but it broke way too easy if you ask me.

Call me old school, but I am not a fan of the metal gaskets that Jaguar uses. I found them difficult to keep in place even though the gaskets get retained by the bolts for assembly. One of my many times of pulling the water pump off and back on was because at some point the gasket fell off and dropped inside the engine bay and I could not see it drop. This is where I solved the issue for myself by using a little bit of grey RTV (specifically made for coolant systems). I put that on each side of the metal gasket to help ensure I don't get a leak. I would also recommend using a soft scouring pad (they are normally green in color, don't use the brownish ones as those are too course) to remove any build up on the metal surfaces of the water pump and block. This will help ensure you have a flat surface for things to seal to.

Removing the intake. Must you do this? NO!!!!!! But, for the amount of time that it takes, it can let you look a lot of places to see if things are leaking and I would recommend doing it if you want to make sure that you find any possible leaks before getting the car on the road. The big trick with the intake is that you have a coolant hose that runs from the throttlebody to the back of the engine that is wrapped up in the intake. Undo the clip on the left side of the throttlebody (as you look at the engine) and pull this hose off. This will allow you to completely remove the intake. Otherwise, it is in your way and just a general nuisance when attempting to local a leak. This gives you a fairly decent look at the short tube on the back of the water pump to see if that is leaking.

Pressure tester. It is free to rent in my area. Just have to put down a deposit when you rent it, but you get it back when your return the tool. Well worth the effort to get.to check the system for leaks before putting it back together. Normally I don't have an issue doing water pump work, but this car has a lot of hidden gotchas. if things are not just so, you will have a leak. You can then refill the system with distilled water (NOT!!!!! drinking or purified water, it has minerals in it that may be detrimental to the radiator) to do your pressure test. Once you know that the system is tight, then you can drain out the coolant one last time and put in all new coolant at that point. Also of note, if you find that you have a slight/slow leak initially, keep pressing the system up to 15 psi. Some members have found that the o-rings may not be quite seated and applying the pressure causes the o-rings to seal. May save you from having to rip things back apart unnecessarily.

The best advice I can tell you is to take your time, be super **** about how clean things are and ensuring that they are assembled just so. It may take you a little longer to do the job the first time, but you are not having to do it over and over and over if you get in a rush.

 

Solid gold Chris!
I am confused about the pressure testing? Sounds like we can test before the intake is back on? Not sure if I read it right?
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clubairth1, yes, you can do it with the intake off. The only "trick" is that with the intake off, you will have to break a coolant line (therefore draining a bunch of coolant) to get the intake back on as one of the coolant lines gets routed thru the middle of some vacuum (intake) lines. It may be possible to not run them that way, but I figure Jaguar ran that line specifically that way for a reason. So, I am putting mine back that way unless I can see something better. Now, all of this is based on a naturally aspirated engine. If you have a supercharged engine, this may not be the case since I believe there is some coolant lines that go to the cooler in the intake. Even then, I am sure with a little bit of ingenuity, you can figure out a way to do it.

 

Well thanks again and yes I have the 5.0L SC.
Just read that 3 times as that's VERY handy to check your work before it's all back together.
Never had seen it before but with all the water pump repairs that require multiple try's to get all the water leaks fixed I think it's mandatory.
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Well, good news. I had been fighting my car, but this round seems to have done the trick. I was able to press the system up to 15 psi and not a drop came out. Whooo hoooooo. In the morning, the intake goes back on the car and the coolant gets filled to the proper 50/50 mix. yeah!!!!!!!!!