Cruise control (Speed control) and 1st gear take off noise
#1
Cruise control (Speed control) and 1st gear take off noise
Hi Guys. After owning my XJ12 for nearly 2 years now, I've finally been able to drive it after moving back to the UK with my family. I drove it for 1000 miles this week and overall it drives like a new car. However I have a couple of issues that are puzzling.
The cruise control is difficult to engage. You can press the set button and sometimes it will engage and sometimes won't. It surges monentarily as you press it, as if you just gave it a quick press of extra accelerator. Then, it may stay at cruise for as long as you need, other times disengage by itself after just a few minutes.
The car returned 23mpg (UK) on this drive at mostly 60-65mph speeds with 2 adults, 3 kids and full luggage so I think engine and fuel wise its doing pretty well.
Last issue is a gearbox noise as the box gets to the top of 1st gear. As soon as 2nd gear engages, the noise goes away. Ive checked the box fluid level and the PO has filled it to the 'Hot' level on the dipstick when the car is cold. So, it has too much fluid in it. Could this be an issue with it? Do I need to get that extra fluid removed asap?
Cheers!
Scott
The cruise control is difficult to engage. You can press the set button and sometimes it will engage and sometimes won't. It surges monentarily as you press it, as if you just gave it a quick press of extra accelerator. Then, it may stay at cruise for as long as you need, other times disengage by itself after just a few minutes.
The car returned 23mpg (UK) on this drive at mostly 60-65mph speeds with 2 adults, 3 kids and full luggage so I think engine and fuel wise its doing pretty well.
Last issue is a gearbox noise as the box gets to the top of 1st gear. As soon as 2nd gear engages, the noise goes away. Ive checked the box fluid level and the PO has filled it to the 'Hot' level on the dipstick when the car is cold. So, it has too much fluid in it. Could this be an issue with it? Do I need to get that extra fluid removed asap?
Cheers!
Scott
Last edited by Scott74; 05-23-2023 at 04:22 AM.
#2
#4
The N / S switch makes the transmission ECU command higher RPM shift points , it also skips the 1st gear so you wont be hearing it
Your cruise control has the left rear wheel speed sensor as the speed refence , this will also be the speedometer
You may on this single speed signal be good enough for the anti - lock brakes and traction control and speedometer but not good enough for the cruise control
You can clean the face of the speed sensor different then the sensor connector
You can get to them without jacking the car with a 10 mm
Do not try too hard to remove the sensors as they break , plastic on the button plug going into the hub and expensive sensors
The wheel speed sensors are specific to ;location and VIN # as lefts don't work on rights
Your 97 is probably the later version part #s
The wheel speed sensors will read from the brake control module the same fundamental resistance of 1300 ohms
To functional test spin the wheel in the proper direction of positive car motion and the sensors will read about 1.0 volts AC
Your left rear is the pin 9 and 10 as the 2 pair marked in orange in the pic
There is a independent vacuum pump for the cruise control
The brake switch disconnect is actually 2 brake switches in one package with 1 dedicated to the brake light
Your cruise control has the left rear wheel speed sensor as the speed refence , this will also be the speedometer
You may on this single speed signal be good enough for the anti - lock brakes and traction control and speedometer but not good enough for the cruise control
You can clean the face of the speed sensor different then the sensor connector
You can get to them without jacking the car with a 10 mm
Do not try too hard to remove the sensors as they break , plastic on the button plug going into the hub and expensive sensors
The wheel speed sensors are specific to ;location and VIN # as lefts don't work on rights
Your 97 is probably the later version part #s
The wheel speed sensors will read from the brake control module the same fundamental resistance of 1300 ohms
To functional test spin the wheel in the proper direction of positive car motion and the sensors will read about 1.0 volts AC
Your left rear is the pin 9 and 10 as the 2 pair marked in orange in the pic
There is a independent vacuum pump for the cruise control
The brake switch disconnect is actually 2 brake switches in one package with 1 dedicated to the brake light
Last edited by Parker 7; 05-23-2023 at 08:38 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Scott74 (05-24-2023)
#5
#6
I was wrong on the wheel sensor construction as a metal cap is as goes into the hub casting and gets stuck , they break off leaving the metal cap and part of the sensor in the hub
Motorcarman had a recommendation of pushing from the inside of the hub with a long screwdriver levering
You'll have to spin the wheel just right to contact the sensor
Removing the sensor is a last step and there are a couple of things I did not mention yet
Motorcarman had a recommendation of pushing from the inside of the hub with a long screwdriver levering
You'll have to spin the wheel just right to contact the sensor
Removing the sensor is a last step and there are a couple of things I did not mention yet
The following users liked this post:
Scott74 (05-25-2023)
The following users liked this post:
Scott74 (05-27-2023)
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#8
The mileage computer is broken! It actually overestimates! I ran it from fuel warning light on and 15mpg range (same driving conditions), filled with 10 gallons exactly and drove to 15 range again. I managed 230 miles. Dash MPG was showing 20.1mpg.
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