Hello from new owner 96 XJ12
#1
10-28-2018, 08:28 PM
#2
10-29-2018, 03:23 AM
Veteran Member
Nice save, Jagsandmgs! This car is lucky to have found you. Jade Green (HEV). Parchment/Sage interior (HEZ)? Or could be Cream/Coffee (NDR). Lovely either way. Jade is the only body color that offered the Parchment interior, so that would be special.
There are two fuel pumps in the tank. We recently learned here that the car will start and run with either of the pumps operational. In other words, the secondary pump will run the car as normal if the primary has failed. Like fuel pump insurance! Only at higher throttles will fuel starvation occur. I do not know if the 5.3 is similar in design.
As a MY96, it is OBDII compliant. So hook up your scan tool, if you have one!
For sure, this car is considerably different than the 5.3s you have, but you will also notice the heritage still present. It is a "modern classic".
There are two fuel pumps in the tank. We recently learned here that the car will start and run with either of the pumps operational. In other words, the secondary pump will run the car as normal if the primary has failed. Like fuel pump insurance! Only at higher throttles will fuel starvation occur. I do not know if the 5.3 is similar in design.
As a MY96, it is OBDII compliant. So hook up your scan tool, if you have one!
For sure, this car is considerably different than the 5.3s you have, but you will also notice the heritage still present. It is a "modern classic".
#3
10-31-2018, 08:51 PM
Hi Richard, it’s NDR. Seems nice enough :P. Just got in from the garage. The fuel pump plugs both light up a test light, but no pump noise or fuel pressure. So I pulled the tank. Too many gas fumes around to test the pumps out of the tank tonight but maybe tomorrow. Compared to XJS there’s just so much less “stuff”. The fuel tank for instance. It’s got like three hoses. An 80’s XJS has something like 8 or 9 with all the vents and the surge tank and the external pump.
Noticed the gas pedal doesn’t spring back. I’ll have to look at that too.
-John
Noticed the gas pedal doesn’t spring back. I’ll have to look at that too.
-John
#4
10-31-2018, 09:55 PM
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#5
11-01-2018, 07:07 AM
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By design the # 1 pump will come on for a few seconds then turn off . It will come on again when the ECU sees engine rotation by the Crankshaft position sensor . You should feel 3 clicks on the relay during the start sequence .See page 19 0f the LWB doc below
The # 2 fuel pump does not come until later in the engine run but can be tricked to turn on if the # 1 pump itself is dead
The # 1 and # 2 pump relays both get their control power from the same fuse shared with the OBD 2 port power pin , the ECU provides a command ground to close the relays . This control power fuse gets it's power though the king relay in the corner of the fuse box which can bve swapped with the king relay in the LH engine bay fuse box . This LH king relay in reality is only the horn relay
The # 7 / 30 amp ( green ) fuel pump fuse is hot at all times and does not rely on a fuse box king relay
You can swap # 1 and # 2 fuel pump relays
To cut through the chase of the control circuit you can put power directly on the # 1 pump at the # 1 pump relay at the Fwd most socket
See page 66
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1996.pdf
See page 206
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 11-01-2018 at 09:37 AM.
#6
11-01-2018, 12:32 PM
Veteran Member
The test light can lite showing voltage and low current ( in this low current test bulb configuration ) but as the electric motor begins to fail it will pit the contacts in the relay power closing contacts not allowing enough current to run the electric motor . It will also in some cases burn the pins and sockets on the motor connector lowering the current to run the motor
It is advisable to replace the relay when changing the pump motor and inspecting the connector for condition and is commonly available through the auto parts store
The Acc relay in position # 3 on page 19 of the LWB doc. can be used for test purposes
my # 1 pump was wired through this Acc relay position because there was a fault with the fuel pump control circuit
It is advisable to replace the relay when changing the pump motor and inspecting the connector for condition and is commonly available through the auto parts store
The Acc relay in position # 3 on page 19 of the LWB doc. can be used for test purposes
my # 1 pump was wired through this Acc relay position because there was a fault with the fuel pump control circuit
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 11-01-2018 at 01:52 PM.
#7
11-01-2018, 08:10 PM
Thank you all for taking the time to reply. Nice to see you here also Doug, and Lady Penelope that training manual in particular is excellent, thank you. I shouldn’t have read it at work but I didn’t get caught. 
Good News is that it now runs! All it needed were two fuel pumps. A bunch of acorns blew out the exhaust, and the throttle is very stiff so there’s still some tinkering to do. I imagine it will see the road some time Saturday afternoon.
-John
Good News is that it now runs! All it needed were two fuel pumps. A bunch of acorns blew out the exhaust, and the throttle is very stiff so there’s still some tinkering to do. I imagine it will see the road some time Saturday afternoon.
-John
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Scotlad (11-01-2018)
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#9
11-08-2018, 10:44 PM
So I’ve been having fun working on the car. Took it out to get a tank of gas last week and found it sure didn’t like to stop. Did two miles and decided that was enough. Front drivers side pads were running metal to metal, so I figured the front calipers should get replaced too because of the uneven wear. Probably didn’t need doing but they’re $36 a side. New pads, rotors, and hoses all around. Maybe $300 all in from Rock Auto. Hella Pagid coated rotors, Akebono pads, Centric hardware kits, no name NuGeon calipers, Raybestos hoses (made in China). Stops much better now.
The rear drivers wheel tilts in at the top so it needs output shaft bearings. They’re on backorder... Kit is about $50 a side from SNG Barratt. Looks simpler than a Series III!
The hunting revs at moderate speed and OBD code are shouting TPS, and it’s here but not installed. Tomorrow’s job. $150ish from rockauto. Denso in Intermotor box, SNG Barratt was under $100 but was 14 days for delivery.
Also ordered plugs, wires, hood and trunk struts. All in with shipping I think maybe $700 in parts so far? Mostly to RockAuto bu5 I think I’ve bought everything the sell for this car that’s broken.
While waiting for these parts... Did an oil change, and a transmission fluid dump and fill. The fluid was very brown. Will do 100 miles and change a couple times and then replace the filter. Power steering was EMPTY. Filled it up and it got NOISY, but eventually quite down. It definitely leaks.
High mount brake light was killing fuses. Found the PCB had delaminated in places. Patched it up with some copper tape and solder.
Redrew the silver lines in the plastic engine cover. Used a silver Sharpie. Looks ok.
So I just came back from a ten mile run. Alternator took 5 miles to kick in. Heater fan ticks like a baseball card in bicycle spokes. Suspension feels good.
Needs floor mats and a reveneered steering wheel or junkyard part.
Sunroof is is a little floppy.
-John
The rear drivers wheel tilts in at the top so it needs output shaft bearings. They’re on backorder... Kit is about $50 a side from SNG Barratt. Looks simpler than a Series III!
The hunting revs at moderate speed and OBD code are shouting TPS, and it’s here but not installed. Tomorrow’s job. $150ish from rockauto. Denso in Intermotor box, SNG Barratt was under $100 but was 14 days for delivery.
Also ordered plugs, wires, hood and trunk struts. All in with shipping I think maybe $700 in parts so far? Mostly to RockAuto bu5 I think I’ve bought everything the sell for this car that’s broken.
While waiting for these parts... Did an oil change, and a transmission fluid dump and fill. The fluid was very brown. Will do 100 miles and change a couple times and then replace the filter. Power steering was EMPTY. Filled it up and it got NOISY, but eventually quite down. It definitely leaks.
High mount brake light was killing fuses. Found the PCB had delaminated in places. Patched it up with some copper tape and solder.
Redrew the silver lines in the plastic engine cover. Used a silver Sharpie. Looks ok.
So I just came back from a ten mile run. Alternator took 5 miles to kick in. Heater fan ticks like a baseball card in bicycle spokes. Suspension feels good.
Needs floor mats and a reveneered steering wheel or junkyard part.
Sunroof is is a little floppy.
-John
Last edited by Jagsandmgs; 11-08-2018 at 10:46 PM.
#10
11-12-2018, 09:35 PM
Veteran Member
#11
11-14-2018, 12:40 AM
Veteran Member
It really seems like this car was on the verge of oblivion. Too bad that lots of owners (usually 2nd or 3rd) simply keep driving them while they begin to fall apart from lack of maintenance. Even with such a fine car as the X305. Then when something finally stops the car, they try to sell off their problems, upset that they can't get any money for it even though it is such a special car with lots of "potential"! "Just needs a little TLC" they say.
Little doubt that you have plans to refurbish the cooling system too. Little doubt that the coolant is no better than green Kool-Aid at this point! Uro makes most of the coolant hoses, if you've seen them on the Rock, and elsewhere. Even the crazy heater hose. Two 88C thermostats and two triangular gaskets will complete the job.
How are the belts?
AC/PS belt: Part #NNA4705AA = 7PK1450
WP/AP belt: Part #EAC9898 = 4PK1080
Alternator belt: Part #NAC2211BA = 5PK840
Sounds like work is progressing very well and before long you'll have a really nice runner.
Little doubt that you have plans to refurbish the cooling system too. Little doubt that the coolant is no better than green Kool-Aid at this point! Uro makes most of the coolant hoses, if you've seen them on the Rock, and elsewhere. Even the crazy heater hose. Two 88C thermostats and two triangular gaskets will complete the job.
How are the belts?
AC/PS belt: Part #NNA4705AA = 7PK1450
WP/AP belt: Part #EAC9898 = 4PK1080
Alternator belt: Part #NAC2211BA = 5PK840
Sounds like work is progressing very well and before long you'll have a really nice runner.
#12
12-31-2018, 11:24 AM
Now I see why this message board gets very little traffic… The car has proven to be completely reliable! Here we are 3000 miles later and it hasn’t skipped a beat. I haven’t bothered putting in the steering rack or the differential bearings yet . Probably should considering I paid for them!
#13
01-03-2019, 01:15 AM
Veteran Member
Worldwide there are probably only a couple thousand X305s left. In the USA, probably a few hundred. Maybe 10 in each state (on average)? That, plus it is a reliable car, means not much to report on here. But I still like having a dedicated forum section for it. There is a lot specific to this car. It is really nice to have all (or most) of the relevant information in one place, instead of mixed in with the other "similar" models.
Concordantly, the resources and input from the members usually seen in the other sections can be very useful here too. Lots of generous advice to be found upon asking.
P.S. There might be more than 10 X305s in Wisconsin. There is one guy there who owns ten of them all by himself.
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