Amazingly there is a very grotty 95 xj12 in a bay area breakers yard and I've got the ECU, body control module, densu fuel injection square electronic thingies, oil cooler, smog pump, screen wash reservoir, failed to get the steering rack off (may go back for it...)

The cats are cut off by the yard annoyingly. The fuel injection rail and everything in the trunk were gone by the time I got there. The interior is completely trashed on this one.

What else is unique to these cars that are worth looking out for? Might be worth getting a list together for when these opportunities arise.

Are the AC and power steering pums unique? Is it worth getting the oil pump?

Separately I have no idea how to get the door glass out, anyone done this?

 

Just in that photo, I see the engine cover, airboxes, and wiper motor which I believe are X305-specific.

Looks like it has X308 headlights.

This hulk was seen in a recent XJ Jesse video (6:58 in).

 

Power steering pump is unique and easy to rebuild so grab that! You can DIY and put on eBay

the AC condenser is rare, the compressor probably not.

 

I don’t know if they ever break, but there is a mechanism the accelerator cable goes through that’s pretty expensive/rare. I did a real hash job getting a busted XJR version to work.

 

Which part of it? I was going to get the capstan twin throttle assembly thing that sits proud of the rear of the plastic top plate on my next visit. Thx

 

I was being polite about the interior

 

Hello gents,

The video explains why the engine cover in the photo is painted red. Its a theme. Louis Vuitton headliner?? Baller out of control!

Radiator, A/C condenser, fan & clutch, MAP sensors, T-stat housings, Cruise control vacuum bellow, Transmission ECU. Traction control device sounds like a good idea to grab. If you go into the doors, get the latches. Also the door upper chrome strips if any good. How about the wood door trim under the fake wood stickers?

 

A lot of the plastic parts and the injector intakes in the engine bay are painted gold, red etc. The car is very badly 'reupholstered'. Not sure if it's a 49ers and Louis Vitton sticky back plastic theme or some kind of pimp/dealer mobile. I dread to think what went on in there. There's a big 'ashtray' pot in the front presumably for waccy baccie ash. All the wood is crazed and faded under the wood grain vinyl. I have this problem on my car too but nothing like as bad, the sun fades and cracks the top coat.
Cali wrecking yards are pretty pricey so the harvesting adds up but let's get a concise list together as a sticky in the event one of us stumbles across an x305 parts opportunity. One of the things that steress me about these cars is having a parked driveway ornament due to unobtanium parts failure...

Somehow despite having a large cart of tools and doing some pre rehearsal on my car I was short of a couple of wrenches and other stuff last time around....

 

I've been back on the luxury accessory enhanced car again today and got the steering rack, electric modul for it, the steering pump and most of the power steering hose to rebuild, as well as the bonnet liner (dirty but restorable) as well as a lot of other little useful bits and pieces

I totally failed to pull the water pump, fan and fan clutch though. I undid all the fasteners around the edge of the water pump bit it's not budging and I completely forgot how to get the fan off.

Also forgot the process to remove the harmonic balancer outlined in 4.7 of the engine manual. Anyone got any handy tool tips to help with that?




Any guidance greatly appreciated!

 

G’day Oliver,

The V12 compressor has a Lock Up sensor in it as the drive belt also drives the power steering pump and if the compressor locks up the clutch will release so the belt won’t fry and kill your power steering. Not many aircon compressors have this lock up sensor so it’s worth getting the compressor.

Also the harmonic damper is a one piece unit unlike the diagrams above. Mine had a couple of holes around the rim supposedly for fitting puller bolts but I found that they were not threaded holes. WTF! I had to tap a couple of the holes to be able to use a puller to get the damper off the crankshaft nose.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Thanks for this- I was eyeballing the crank pulley while the klaxon was going off for end of day prayers (payers) in the yard and it did look like one enormous unit. No radiator etc means I could pull it and get it rebuilt but need to check it's identical to my car first then start the swearing and grunting

 

The center console with the cup holder for the cupholder inter parts

Check your AC compressor if it is a Denso series 16 or 17 with some letters , rebuild kits available

Under the radiator pan that bolts on the frame , bad factory paint , you can drop the pan out from under the radiator fins

Bolts around the upper radiator upper cross member

Transmission crossmember

The X308 headlights and the plastic bracket behind it ( needed ) Spray the lens palls as they go into the plastic mounting bracket

The bulbs are different so need the sockets and pigtail wire

ABS wheel sensors if in your VIN range

Radiator fan control module , fwd of left fwd wheel . white color , 8 or 10 mm on extension , don't be temped to snap off mounting lug as the module can not be mounted upside down , water ingression.

In Saudi Arabia the prayer notice went off 5 times a day with all channels of TV broadcasting live image of the Mecca center , iron meteorite

Parents lived 30 miles away on the Red Sea coast

You probably have the orange dot upgraded GM transmission

Ignition switch as it removes from the key barrel , need a just right thick wall flat small screwdriver

More later as I ponder

Interior door handle cable as it goes back to the door latch , lefts and rights are the same , there is a special clip on the cable / latch connection that can get lost

door puddle light lenses

Fuel tank and valve cover oil cap if good seal

spare lug nuts

Plastic screws holding down the wiper blade trough

Spare EV - 1 connector locks from the trunk dome lights , used all over the engine

Wiper fluid pump

Center vent , pulls straight out as the 2 center vents with the needed potentiometer wheel , try to not break the vent LOUVERS

Someone in the X300 section went through the driver door glass installation

Driver door latch and window regulator

Master driver door controller if a memory button match

V - 12 badging

Spare radiator hoses and both spare crankshaft position sensors

Radiator coolant temp switch , 3 wire, cars left lower rear

A / C outside air temp thermistor , left fwd brake cooling duct , take the connector and some wire pigtail

Rearveiw mirror including the mount glued to the glass , give yourself some wire are there may be a rewire

 

Reference photo of the front of the engine, I've now got the (possibly damaged by fred flintstone who took the radiator) AC condenser, the ac compressor, fan and clutch, twin electric fans, the waterpump (seen here with the nightmare phillips head screw, which needed a half inch drive breaker and beefy philllips head socket to break loose. Smaller screwdriver basically slow motion screw head destruction as it fails to shift screw), MAP sensors. i now have XJ12 indigestion...

Parker the car is pretty trashed, thx for your list but interior is a disaster area! I did a trial run of drilling out the transmoission shifter micro switch and failed, useful experiment. Pretty sure I got the Radiator fan control module

 

Bedtime , surgery in the morning

 

Hope that goes well for you!

 

I just had the coolant bypass pipe off of my car, the stub hoses were failing. The pipe is steel and needed a lot of cleaning, but came out ok for its age. I was thinking of how valuable and important this part is. This one shows lots of rust but may still be usable? After all, it is made of unobtainium.

Thanks for all the input Parker 7, best wishes!!

 

On that subject of metal pipes , for the cabin heat coolant line from the car's left radiator back to the cabin heat electric pump

Mine was rusted , inferior paint

 

Slightly off topic… If one did not want to be Fred Flintstone… what would be the best way to remove a radiator without destroying the condenser? Take the bonnet off? What is the “radiator pan” that Parker 7 mentions? Is this something you can remove and pull the radiator out the bottom? The car will be on a two post lift so there is lots of room underneath if it can go down. I have to get it out to replace the front main seal and try to aluma-weld the condenser that has a tiny pin hole leak. This car is getting a great deal of love very soon. $1500 in parts sitting in my living room

 

Take all the ac lines out without cutting them (F Flintstone cut some of the metal fittings) Remove hoses and the black plate on top and it should come straight out vertically (I think)
Underneath has a welded in panel if I remember correctly and the radiator sits on it on two big rubber mounts.

Fred scarred the condenser but fingers crossed it's an ok spare...

 

You can drain the radiator and take a thin rope ( common double twine ) around the bottom of the radiator core with the top chassis crossmember holding up the core as you remove the bottom chassis crossmember / radiator pan

Save the bottom radiator core rubber bushings

The top crossmember bolts ( many ) can be frozen so some penetrate soaking time and maybe some heat

Replacement top bolts may be needed as drilled out

I pulled my leaking A / C condenser exchanger from the top , but left the radiator in place

To tilt the radiator out from the top the condenser I think would be in the way

To pull the radiator out from the bottom would be an option , check radiator fittings clearance

The lower chassis radiator crossmember / pan is 4 bolts , plastic lower wind faring may be in the way as mine is missing

" aluma-weld the condenser that has a tiny pin hole leak "

Might consider replacing the freon dryer unit ( attached to the top of the condenser) as the old dryer's dislodged and loose decedent beads can end up in the thermal expansion valve ruining your A / C performance