So i flew up to Seattle last night and bought a 2004 XJR with 186k miles.

Sight unseen. Its not in too good of a shape. But for $3500 i thought worth a gamble.

The car is black on black. Interior is in good shape except a a cigarette burnt hole on the moonroof cover. And a damaged headrest that needs to be replaced. The car was leaking- it was due to plugged sunroof drain hole. Issue fixed after I drove it home from Seattle for SF.

Mechanically-
1. The front shocks are gone and the air compressor. So will go with Arnott new shocks and new air compressor

2. CEL is on- throwing P116, P037 code. I will have to replace the down stream O2 sensors. P116- i think its the thermostat housing that needs to be changed?

3. Its drove fine until i got home to bay area. Transmission fault showed up. I am hoping its just low transmission fluid. Or my gamble will totally blow up

4. EBC motor is shut. Need to replace too.

The engine on the other hand is quiet smooth. The car is fully loaded with all options. Although I really think Jaguar's active cruise is too aggressive in stopping and detecting front traffic.

So far my budget is $3500 for the car, $2.5k for repair.

Now to the question part

1. P037 is down stream O2 sensor- i heard is located behind the transmission. Just want to clarify.

2. Thermostat housing looks not too bad to install. But is there a gasket needed?

3. EBC motor, I did not see any write up on this. Anyone can help me?

 

Hi krispykreme, and congrats for gathering the courage to take this leap of faith!


About the electronic parking brake, I've experienced this, there are 2 possible faults. There is a control module beneath the right hand side cover in the boot. Either it, or the motor are shot (or both). There is a connector with a multitude of wires coming out of it, two of which direct the EPB motor. I remember like green and gray/yellow, but please do a search, and you will find out which. take 2 pins or other metal that can go into the connector, and see if the motor works. If it works, get a new module, but only through the dealer, modules from other cars I understand do not work, they have to be programmed at the dealer. If, on the other hand, the motor doesn't engage, unfortunately, you have to pull the whole rear suspension assembly to reach it. If you've got mechanical skills, this can save you allot of money. While you're in there, you might also want to change the carbon canister.


Here's a video link to an S-type, which has the same system:


Hope this helps!

 

How do you know the EBC motor is shut, a fault message ? It may just need resetting if so.

The electronic handbrake mechanism is the usual thing that breaks, not the control module. These are not all that expensive, but as Dima says, can be a PITA to replace. You can also buy just the cables from the motor to the discs. At that mileage, I would expect them to be worn out by now, and sticking thus preventing the EBC from working correctly.

Here's a UK supplier with a nice photo and not a bad price. SNG Barratt also will supply and have a US operation.

 

Thank you. This will help me.

Right now when I click on the EBC, nothing happened. I can't hear the motor sound. So it could be either the signal not getting thru or the motor is shut.

I will need to measure to voltage

 

I've replaced many of both pieces in the past. The motors were more common though. I got pretty good at replacing them quickly too. I do recommend lifting the car up so the suspension drops to get the motor replaced, if that is what you determine needs to be done. The motor fits through a "hole" that the right side cable and axle shaft go though. They are a PITA if inexperienced. It took me many tries to find the right procedure to get good at it.

Best of luck with the car. Sounds like a great project that'll be awesome when done.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Really appreciated. Right now I am trying to recover from the 14 hour drive.

Tomorrow the car is getting an oil change and transmission fluid change at independent shop. Don't have time to do small things. Hopefully transmission is good.

I will rent a garage space once all the parts arrives and try to fix majority of things in one setting.

 

regarding the trans - do the pan and sleeve too...

 

Thank you all for the help.

Update-
1. Well- the parking motor is shot. Off to get part.
2. Transmission fluid/pan change is tomorrow. Hopefully this will solve my transmission issue.
3. O2 sensor, thermal housing, Arnott fronts and compressor all coming within next two weeks.

Upgrades-
1. New brakes- any recommendation?

 

Ceramic to limit brake dust.

The photo show part number for front pads used recently.

Next photo shows rotors I used. Would suggest using rotors with dark treated 'hats' so increase cosmetic appearance of rim brake package.

Thanks
-mag

 

Rotors part number. They perform well, but may choose something else next time.

Thanks
Mag

 

For brake rotors i'd only recommend;

Centric "High Carbon"
R1 Concepts "Premier Line"
brakeperformance.com "Black"

These are the discs with the black "electro-coating" on the bells and inside the vanes. Also the high-carbon content wears better if you use a more aggressive pad i.e. ceramics if you want less dust.

Have a look here for more info:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...r-x350-103513/

Don't bother with the OEM rotors, they warp, ask me how I know...

For pads, I use EBC Redstuff and Yellowstuff, but unless you are going out on a racetrack you probably don't need the Yellows. Other ceramic pads like Akebono will be ok too.

But I would not use an uprated pad on a regular-quality rotor; if you have aggressive pads on standard rotors then the rotors wear faster because pads don't. That's my opnion anyhow.

And let's not get started on the drilled vs. slotted. vs. dimpled. vs. plain argument...

 

Thanks all.

1. I went ahead and ordered centric high carbon- had good experience on other car before.

2 Pads- went with Redstuff- I had yellow stuff before on other car with mixed result.

Transmission shifting has improved a lot. But still had transmission fault twice. But much less than before. I suspect that i need to do one more fluid change. The car probably never had any transmission fluid change.

 

What code is it throwing up for the Transmission Fault?

 

You could probably do with a TCM software re-flash. I had a similar fault, and this cured it. My Jaguar main agent here in the UK (Wilmslow), charged 30 minutes labour. There was no software fee.

 

[QUOTE=krispykreme;1146884] The car was leaking- it was due to plugged sunroof drain hole. Issue fixed after I drove it home from Seattle for SF./QUOTE]

How easy was it to unclog the sunroof drain? Mine has the same problem (don't drive it in the rain) and I've tried clearing the drain holes up in the roof. Saw a minor improvement, but still leaking.

Thanks and congrats on the purchase!

 

For the air suspension problems:

jaghelp.com: How to change the front air springs (suspension struts) on your Jaguar XJ

and

jaghelp.com: How to change the air suspension compressor on your Jaguar XJ

 

[QUOTE=Khello;1154544]It's actually quiet easy.

Move your sunroof to open position. Use a bottle of compress air (ie dust cleaner).

Locate the 4 drain hole on each corner of sunroof. And blast away.

There has been a lot of rain recently in Bay area. No leaks.

 

So update-

1. Transmission fault is all gone after 600 miles.
2. Replaced hood struts.
3. Changed the rear trimp to chrome.
4. Isolated the EPB issue to acutator/motor. Dead- waiting for parts.

Parts arrived this week
1. Lower bushings
2. Front Arnotts
3. Rear rotor
4. Red stuff brakes pads- front and back
5. New air suspension compressor

Parts still in transit-
1. Front rotor
2. Hood insulation
3. Thermostat
4. EPB acutator

Help-
1. Where is the super charger oil fill plug? Is it right below the air intake?
2. I have been searching EPB replacement threads. But can't find any detail with pictures. How easy is this to install?

 

Sounds like your well on your way, especially dodging the bullet with the transmission... Regarding the EPB replacement I believe you have to drop the rear axle...

 

2. I have been searching EPB replacement threads. But can't find any detail with pictures. How easy is this to install?

If you are serious about doing it yourself. Find a place that will let you use a lift. The XJ requires the rear bolts of the subframe to be dropped down and out. This also allows access to the two bolts holding the motor assembly to the subframe.

I'll try to go step by step. My memory is a little faded from not doing one in 4 plus years.
I am also under the assumption that you have checked and found all fuses to be good.


Raise the car so the wheels drop

Remove the wheels

Inspect the cable as it goes through the bracket on the caliper. Oftentimes this plastic retainer is broken and will cause more issues.
Get replacement left and right cables if necessary

Inspect how the cable is routed over the sway bar link. Some cars have a metal guide, some have a rubber wedge, some have a plastic cap. The latest fitment that I remember is the rubber wedge. It probably looks worn in a u-shape. Normal, but if it is worn to the top of the say bar link, then replace both sides.

Go under and access the cables just right of center and look for the metal link that joins the cables together. Cut cable on the left side. If you are replacing the cable to the caliper it won't matter which side. Don't lose the link. It is needed.

Once the cable is cut, go to the equalizer and remove the left side cable from it. Note the routing of the cable coming from the motor to the equalizer. It must be routed properly or it will have faulty engagement when done.

Lower the rear of the subframe by removing the rear subframe bolts. I think the exhaust pipes may be a nuisance for them (IIRC you don't need to remove the front subframe bolts but may have to loosen them). Remove the two bolts holding the motor to the subframe.

Disconnect the one or two motor connectors from the harness.
Push the mounting bracket/motor up and over the rear edge of the subframe.

I always took the motor out the right side. There is just enough space to slide it past the diff and axle shaft on the right side. Make a note of how the cables are run. Twist the motor assembly enough for the bracket to clear everything and there you go, it is out.

And as JTIS and GTR and ToPix always say, installation is the reverse of removal. haha

A note on the link that joins the cables. I found it easiest to pry the tab up then gently open the thing with a flat blade screw driver. you will have to push the end of the cable towards the center opening and remove.

Once the motor is in and cables in place. The very last thing to do is reconnect the connectors. (I never did it with the battery disconnected but that would probably help, I think the motor would run when it was connected). After all is installed and connected. Go in and apply the parking brake. Make sure it disengages as well. All should be good after that.

I hope this helps at least give you an idea of what is involved. It is not easy if it is the first time. And I hope I didn't forget anything. I'm sure someone will chime in if I did. Ask questions as well.