Hello everyone. My name is Greg. I have a "titled" 2005 Vanden Plas that has a VECI label on the driver shock tower that says compatible with 2004. And, I've looked at the Jag site(s) and it seems to be a 2004 not a 2005. Not sure if this has happened to anyone else but I think the title has somehow got a typo on it where someone punched in the wrong year....? Not sure.

Also, I bought the car for 1500 sitting. Person was driving the vehicle and it was acting up so they decided to sell it.

Upon first inspection...the car runs like crap. Won't accelerate, limp mode maybe but scan shows 46 degree advanced timing, is that how they achieve the limp? Not sure. Here are the messages that are displaying over the dash and the codes I've found. The battery is very suspect and I also jump it off (starts and runs) with my little box jumper.

Messages on Dash:
- Parking Brake Fault
- DSC Not Available
- ABS Fault
- Transmission Fault
- Restricted Performance
- Low Brake Fluid
- Engine Coolant Low
- On center display - Communications Fault

Codes on Foxwell Scanner - P1000? P0332 Knock Sensor, P0117 Engine Coolant, P1642 Fuel Pump Monitor, P1637 CapLink ECM,

So armed with this information and searching sites I was able to find some information about the 4 PIN connection at the Throttle Body. I used 1 can of carb cleaner on a filthy TBI unit and cleaned/dried and reconnected the connectors. I also after receiving input from the internet checked the ground wires behind the front headlights.....DAMN!!! there are two ground spots on the passenger side and the bottom one (wires) were just handing there with a broken bolt attached. Grabbed the upper wires and gave them a very light tug and they snapped off too. Was able to drill a new hole, attach a new ground bolt point and re-secure the wires.

Started her up, took her for the first test drive and about broke my neck as it was slammed into the headrest. WTH Dang

Then as I reached 2nd the car went into a "rev-limiter" feel and I let off the gas immediately and could feel a 1-2 shift. Got on the gas again and went through second with no problem...got to where the 2-3 should be and same thing, ref-limiter feel and bucking, let off, into 3 she goes and so on. WTH was that about.

I'm thinking that I will/may have to take it very easy as I drive her around and she relearns how to shift?

Open for any suggestions here as this is a very strange beast for me. And yes she is available if anyone wants her.

Another oddity was I had just started her...I hadn't wen 30 yds to the driveway entrance and into the 1-2-3 shifts and turned around in a driveway....look down as I'm going back the other way and the temp guage is in the upper getting hot quadrant and moving (actually slowly moving) to the H. WTH is going on here, I just started it and got under way. SMH...got her back to the driveway and shut her down as fast as I could, and there she sits while I write this song, er ah list of issues.

Thanks.

Greg
Augusta, GA

 

 

 

FWIW..

- As to MY? A VIN lookup will get you the year and month it left the factory.

- An X350 has thirty-six ground points. Locations are on one of the illustrations in the electical manual. Downloadable as a .pdf.

Some are, admittedly, "more important than others", but still...

- New or at least 'seriously healthy' battery, AND kept FULLY charged is essential. When troubleshooting.. or at all times, really. Many among us trust to top-drawer "maintainer" chargers, hardwired in.

- Squirrelly cooling system near-as-dammit REQUIRES periodic pressure/vacuum tests to catch the failure of the most fragile of its many design flaws before overheat cycles warp heads and block.

- Use of a vacuum charging rig to get all the trapped air out highly recommended if the alleged "cooling system" is to have even half a chance of operating normally.

- Your one has all the symptoms of having been cooked one or more times too often, already.

- Do the timing chain replacement concurrent with pulling the heads plus-plus, otherwise you have to do it twice.

As to "plus plus"? Even if the heads and block do NOT need resurfaced, any one or more of replacing rear crankshaft oil seal, main and rod bearings, pistons & rings, or oil pump, want the engine out of the vehicle to be able to separate the oil pan/sump from the block.

Now-- if you bought it for only $1,500 US?

- Used engines cost more, unrepaired/as-is, "roll the dice" grade with no returns, even.

- "Known good" ones, with 60 or 90 day return from well-regarded sources, are typically around $4200 at the moment.

-"Rebuilts" start around $9,200, to double that depending on how extensive the 'rebuild', and by whom.

To the good:

- The 'consumable' short-lived AJ motor is the main cause of grief and expense. If you can sort that - alleged cooling circuit worst of all - most of the rest is economically sustainable for really long years:

- The aluminium chassis can corrode, but not "rust". THIS.. is a Very Big Deal for those of us in 'salt belt' States.

- Suspension, brakes, transmission, diferential - the whole driveline - are average to less than average costly to keep in good order by simply buying parts wisely.

- Electronics can be weird, but 'the community' has solutions that keep the costs within bounds.

Very few "special" tools are needed. It is actually an EASY vehicle to work on, relative to similar-vintage option-loaded luxury cars from others. Crosly 'Hot Shot' was easier yet, but then again, so is an ignorant wheelbarrow..

 

Holy Crap. Why/How do people even drive cars like this. Too much maintenance req. lol I guess I'm going to unload this on anyone that will haul it away. I've probably 1600-1700 into it and need to cut my loses. Thanks for your advice.