I love this car - it frustrates me to no end somedays, but i won't ever get rid of it. I've replaced the air suspension, transmission pan, headlights, and other various items. Now, my driver side (left) window has decided to stop working.
All other windows function up/down, but the driver side does not respond. i found that if i hold the remote for the "all open" function, the window will roll down as intended -however it will not roll up, even using the "all up" feature.
Thinking this may be a window switch problem, i replaced the switch - this did not work. Then I replaced the motor - same issue. New switch, new motor, all other windows work, but not driver side.
What else should I look at on this challenge? i've attached a few photos of the internal door, switch, and motor.
Consequently i have an extra switch and motor is anyone is in need.
*also, i couldn't figure out how to rotate the attachments, sorry if the photos are upside down.

Any advice is welcome. I'd like to be able to hit the drive thru again someday.

 

I would check for a break in the wiring thu the door and into the A post, the continual opening and closing of the drivers door can flex the wires and they can break, I had a similar fault on an 02 XJ8, with the wires in the boot lid, they are fixed to the hinge and at the bend had flexed and broken, first to go was the boot light, it would come on an doff as the lid went up, then the boot lid wouldn't open with any of the buttons on the lid, the dash or even the fob, found 3 broken wires inside the loom, fixed them and all good.

 

I had a similar problem with my X-308. I am suggesting that you try a "Hard Reset". Many of the circuits on these cars are sensitive to millivolt changes. A hard reset clears current stored in the capacitors in the various modules, including the one for the power windows.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post. Touch the disconnected cable to the positive battery terminal. Count to five and then reconnect the negative cable back to the negative battery terminal. See if your window works now.

 

Hi cleve,

The Electrical Guide shows the schematic for the window circuits in Figure 14.1:

Jaguar X350 Electrical Guide 2004

One thing that catches my eye is that the Front Electronic Module (FEM) has two multiplex connections to the driver's window motor assembly. Both are labeled as Outputs (O), and one is labeled "Enable" and the other is labeled "Global." I haven't studied how those relate to the motor operation, but those wires pass through connector DD1, a black 22-way connector mounted on the driver's A-post. At the very least it might be worth checking that connector for any signs of corrosion or contamination on the pins.

While you have the A-post trim off, it would also be worth cleaning the connector at the FEM. The ground for the driver's window motor passes through connector DD3, a 10-way gray connector also mounted on the A-post, so I'd clean that one too. Also clean the actual ground point referenced by the motor, which is G9, located on the "Upper LH A post." From the ground point diagram on pdf page 27 of the Electrical Guide, it is not clear whether the ground point is below the dash or beside it.

The Workshop Manual may have some helpful information on the operation of the windows - probably in the Body section. You can download all six sections of the manual from this forum. See the 'HOW TO' quick links thread on the home page of this X350 forum.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for this. I'll give it a try today. Apologies for the late response, work has been a bear.

 

thank you for this info Don. Apologies for a late response, i am going to get into this if the hard reset doesn't work. I'll download the workshop manual today. Always appreciate the assistance from JF!

 

mikebaker3 wrote

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post. Touch the disconnected cable to the positive battery terminal. Count to five and then reconnect the negative cable back to the negative battery terminal. See if your window works now.

Do you mean you leave the positive battery cable connected during this process???

 

Yes, you can leave the positive cable connected to the battery. If you think about it, the battery is out of the circuit because the only contact is at its positive post, and in order for current to flow, the circuit must connect to both the positive and negative posts.

I personally let the battery cable terminals touch for at least a minute to allow the capacitors that power the memory circuits to fully discharge so the memories will clear and reset to default settings.

Cheers,

Don

 

Had the same problem of driver windows not working on x350 . investigated neutral red wire suppling 12 volts to motor , current not there ... check fused ok ... as suggested checked connector in a pillar ... current on connector ok .
Disconnecfed and removed door wires... pushed the rubber accordéon tube, found neutral brown live 12 volts wire broken by corrosion , found 2. Other wires with broken insulation starting to corrode. Looks like indeed it is a problem area. Repaired the wires, windows is now working fine.

 

Here is the door harness wires outside the A pillar showed for clarity, replacement wire was inserted inside the rubber boot

 

Hi Seawolf8,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

Please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

 

I have had a similar problem with my right rear window, since I got the car, and just recently with the left rear window, both work fine with global opening and closing, and from their own individual switches, but with the drivers door switch, the right window only goes down, whether I press up or down, and the left window doesn't work from the drivers switch panel at all. I suspect broken wires in the pillar connections, The question is, will it be wires in the drivers door or in each of the rear doors, or even all 3. The rear doors are rarely used, so I will start from the drivers door, and work back from there. I was being lazy with this fault, and was just going to live with it as it was only 1 window and i could just reach behind and flick the switch to close it if needed, but as it now affects another window, the chances are that if one wire was broken and now another, that there may be more on the way, so best to catch it before it gets me stuck somewhere, or worse still shorts and fries something important and expensive.