2004 XJR rear wheel bearings
#21
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I can't remember if you have a hydraulic press. For the past 15+ years I've been using one from Harbor Freight that cost only $70, and they still sell one for about that price. This press has paid for itself many, many times over on our two XJ40s. Below is a link to pix of how I used it to replace the front subframe pivot bushes:
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Some guys have used the "bolt, washer, socket and nut" method to remove and install control arm bushes.
One guy on the Jag-Lovers XJ40 forum used a ball joint replacement kit:
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Cheers,
Don
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Some guys have used the "bolt, washer, socket and nut" method to remove and install control arm bushes.
One guy on the Jag-Lovers XJ40 forum used a ball joint replacement kit:
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Cheers,
Don
#22
#23
I do have a Harbor Freight press. I was able to separate the hub from the hub carrier but the bearing, evidently, comes in two pieces. I will be posting pictures later but my main problem, right now, is getting out the inner bearing race out of the hub shaft. I tried to use a bearing separator jig but there just isn't enough meat to grab on. I need to improvise.
#24
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I do have a Harbor Freight press. I was able to separate the hub from the hub carrier but the bearing, evidently, comes in two pieces. I will be posting pictures later but my main problem, right now, is getting out the inner bearing race out of the hub shaft. I tried to use a bearing separator jig but there just isn't enough meat to grab on. I need to improvise.
Looking forward to the photos.
Cheers,
Don
#25
Last edited by Lagonia; 04-13-2014 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Grammar
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04XJR (11-19-2017)
#26
I have seen devices with two plates and two semicircular cutouts with two connecting bolts. The cutouts are tapered. One of those would act like a wedge when the bolt are tightened up.
Then again, if the race is to be discarded then cutting through most of it with a
die grinder would let a cold chisel do its job.
Then again, if the race is to be discarded then cutting through most of it with a
die grinder would let a cold chisel do its job.
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Lagonia (04-16-2014)
#27
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I have seen devices with two plates and two semicircular cutouts with two connecting bolts. The cutouts are tapered. One of those would act like a wedge when the bolt are tightened up.
Then again, if the race is to be discarded then cutting through most of it with a
die grinder would let a cold chisel do its job.
Then again, if the race is to be discarded then cutting through most of it with a
die grinder would let a cold chisel do its job.
Hi plums,
What you're describing is called a "bearing separator," and I thought Lagonia mentioned that he had tried to use one but that it could not grab the race. See photo 8 in the album at the link below:
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Lagonia, I had to use a die grinder or drum sander to make the sharp half-circle "jaws" of my bearing separator even thinner and sharper to pull the bearing cones off the diff carrier. I wonder if you could modify your bearing separator in a similar fashion? I got this separator at Harbor Freight also, for about $20 or $25.
Cheers,
Don
#28
Lagonia, I had to use a die grinder or drum sander to make the sharp half-circle "jaws" of my bearing separator even thinner and sharper to pull the bearing cones off the diff carrier. I wonder if you could modify your bearing separator in a similar fashion? I got this separator at Harbor Freight also, for about $20 or $25.
Don
Don
#29
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Could you grind a notch or bevel around the largest diameter of the race to give your bearing separator a better grip?
#30
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#32
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Enjoying watching the process a whole lot more than you're enjoying doing all that work, but you're going to be really happy when it's done and the rest of us are very grateful for the photos!
Cheers,
Don
#33
#34
Removing the lower control arm bushes
I did get replacements for the bushes on both the rear control arms. The ball joint type bushes I was able to get out. The 3rd one, which looks like an engine mount bush looks intimidating and do not think I have the right jigs to get them out. They look pretty good actually so I made the decision to keep those even though I have replacements
for them as well.
for them as well.
#35
Wheel Bearing Replacement Conclusion - Part 1
Well, finally the car is on the road again after weeks on the lift running better than ever.
Bearing installation seemed easy enough using the run of the mill fixtures you would find in a front wheel bearing removal kit from Harbor Freight, for example. To my surprise, after I put it together, the hub was loose as ***k from the wheel knuckle. WTF?
Well, there are two inner races in that huge bearing and those two races, I figured, did not end up next to each other as they should have....
Solution? Get the tools the Jaguar manual recommends:
204-252: Bearing support
204-250: Rear hub bearing removal tool (installer too)
204-193: Front hub remover
The above tools are used for the installation of the bearing and hub as well.
The tools are shown here in order. They cost about $170 for all three from Bosch Auto Service solutions. I used them all for removing and installing the bearing on the second wheel knuckle/hub and I can tell you the whole process took about 10 minutes. Worth their weight in gold, ... well, almost.
Bearing installation seemed easy enough using the run of the mill fixtures you would find in a front wheel bearing removal kit from Harbor Freight, for example. To my surprise, after I put it together, the hub was loose as ***k from the wheel knuckle. WTF?
Well, there are two inner races in that huge bearing and those two races, I figured, did not end up next to each other as they should have....
Solution? Get the tools the Jaguar manual recommends:
204-252: Bearing support
204-250: Rear hub bearing removal tool (installer too)
204-193: Front hub remover
The above tools are used for the installation of the bearing and hub as well.
The tools are shown here in order. They cost about $170 for all three from Bosch Auto Service solutions. I used them all for removing and installing the bearing on the second wheel knuckle/hub and I can tell you the whole process took about 10 minutes. Worth their weight in gold, ... well, almost.
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AD2014 (05-26-2014)
#36
#37
Rear control arm bushing replacement - Conclusion
Well, I did try. I removed two out of the three on one arm and that went fairly well (documented in this thread). The third one, the bigger of the three, was impossible to get out. It looked good so I had decided to keep it and not replace it. But when I tried to install the new bushings, I simply could not do it. Did not have the jigs/fixtures to put them back. They would not go straight, period, no matter what I tried.
So, I took them to my retired Jag mechanic who soiled on them for 4 hours and he got them done.
Rear suspension is absolute perfection now. I replaced both tie rod ends and both stabilizer links as well.
So, I took them to my retired Jag mechanic who soiled on them for 4 hours and he got them done.
Rear suspension is absolute perfection now. I replaced both tie rod ends and both stabilizer links as well.
#38
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