AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatorman67
Quote:
Originally Posted by clubairth1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatorman67
Can you help me with my 2005 XJ8L?
Hi Gatorman;
Sure but it will be better to put it all on the forum so other guys can see how you fixed it?
What is your problem?

Regards;
Kevin
I have no problem with placing it on the forum, it just seems like nobody is able to answer it....
I have a 2005 xj8l that I changed the coils an spark plugs on found one broken off had to have a friend get it out. Took me two weeks of trying he did it in 11 minutes,,, ugh,,, then it would crank not start.. it'd act like it wanted too but wouldn't turn over,, after running a diagnostic on it an searching the entire sensors we found the fuel modulator on top of the engine had been broke at sometime in the past an a real idiot had super glued the spout piece back on.. this of course caused fuel to leak out an eat away the glue. Then while changing the coils it must of broke off. So I bought another one oem,,, replaced it. Then after trying to start it the immobilizer kicked in,, back to my tool, running obd2 found the battery was too low, bought a nice charger an fully charged it spins that cat like a top.. but it still wouldn't run.. the old tool says no issue with the pump. But before the new modulator was installed I had fuel there,, now nope...I know this is long but you asked what's wrong with it..lol. please help

 

If it were me, I would double check to see if I had the fuel modulator installed correctly. I mean, you had fuel before you replaced the modulator. Would it also be possible that some clog formed down the line from the fuel modulator perhaps as the result of some contaminants/ particulates from the super glue application?

 

Gatorman,

When you write 'Fuel Modulator', are you referring to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor?

If so, check that it truly is OEM? I was sold a replacement that turned out to be Chinese and would not function? I then replaced that with a second-hand Ford unit (which DID work)?
Also, check that the vacuum hose from it to your inlet manifold does not leak?

 

I bought the same part from a online supplier. It was a ford part to begin with. I am trying to find the relay that controls the fuel pump. Ive got the full .anual and electrical manual from emanual.com but trting to find it in 6000 pages is a bit much. It is not search friendly, if you know where it is id greatly appreciate it.

 

Now I am not sure that's what is is called. It's attached to the right front of the fuel rail and has a hose that connects to the back of the throttlebody. I had fuel going to it before i replaced it. But i put it right back just like it was before. I am going to take your advice and replace the hose. Howecer i was wondering if when I replaced it the fuel rail got a air pocket in it? It was covered the entire time and I made sure no foreign matter got in it. Found this small cut wire but another member said he didn't think it was a issue as my reader didn't throw a number two cylinder code. I've taped it up just in case.

Its a broken wote on the number two cylinder on the driverside from the front to the windscreen in the coil pack wireloom..


And I'm going to recheck all the coils and plugs too make sure they are in correctly. I'm going to get a fuel filter, but I really need to know where that darn fuel pump relay is located. If you know please do tell and rat it out..lol

 

In my haste I omitted a key point.

Is this what you are referring to? And where is the check valve to test fuel rail pressure? Or is this in its spot and when i remove it the tester goes in this space instead?

 

Hello Gatorman,
Yes, that is your Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. You can see its vacuum line exiting left and circling round right to your inlet manifold/throttle body. My 2005 XJ8L does not have a Check Valve to test fuel rail pressure. That is what this sensor does? Check on your OBD2 reader...My fuel rail pressure varies a little, between 380-400 kPa...Sometimes a little higher, sometimes a little lower...Intake Manifold Pressure...45 kPa to 50 kPa...

 

Just to clarify the function of that device. It is the fuel pressure sensor. There is no fuel "going to it," as it sits on the fuel rail, has a diaphragm inside, with vacuum applied to the other side of the diaphragm. Fuel pressure and vacuum will move the diaphragm and the sensor reports that position as a voltage value. When you said a previous owner had broken "the spout piece" and superglued it on, that's just the nipple for the vacuum hose, and there should be no fuel there. If there is, the sensor's diaphragm is broken, making the sensor useless. Superglue wouldn't last long in that application so that wasn't the brightest thing to do.

As stated above by EsRay, you need a reader on your OBD2 port to see what fuel pressure you're getting.

I can also tell you from experience that the car will run just fine with no vacuum on the sensor. The vacuum pipe to mine was found to be broken the first time I removed the engine trim cover, and there's no telling how long it had been broken. It did take the ECU a while, with some diag codes being thrown in the meantime, to zero in on a proper fuel map after I repaired the vacuum line, which of course, changed the output of that sensor. It ran fine both before and after the repair, though; just had an adjustment to go through after the repair.

Finally, I just want to emphasize again that the only fuel around that sensor is what's in the fuel rail. It has no separate fuel feed into the sensor.

Frankly, if I'd replaced the coils and then had a crank but no start situation, I'd be investigating the coils. That's what changed. Do you actually have spark?

 

from bad personal experience I fully support wfooshee‘s suggestion to focus on the changes made.

Years ago, when rebuilding the engine of my good old BMW 320i, among many other parts I also purchased a set of 6 new fuel injectors which I of course used in the process. After getting it all back together the bloody thing cranked but just wouldn‘t start. Cost me 3 days crawling through virtually everything I had done before the row was on changing back to the old injectors in the trash box. Half a crank later the car started like it never had had any problem
New parts should be trusted, but in the end they are also different parts than those that used to work before

 

When my FPR failed it set a code indicating that?
Have you checked for codes?
When mine failed I unhooked it completely. This sets the fuel pressure at a fixed pressure. The car will run fine but does not know how to adjust the fuel pressure anymore so it's running at a fairly high pressure just in case.

Your 2005 "should" have a Schrader valve for testing fuel pressure as my 2005 STR did. Now Jaguar did remove that at least on the S-Type for 2006. So not completely sure?
Here is where it will be located "if" you have it.



Rear of the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine.
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Okay after going all over hell's half acre in this cat. I've found the core issue. The ol' boy thinks it's being pinched. Got a P1582 code and from what these so-called jag mechanics are saying it can't be removed, unless you have a specific computer program. Then it's gonna run almost $500 just to diagnose an make sure they can't find anything else to charge me for. I just can't believe that I can't fix this. Please respond an let me know what I can do. Hopefully Cat daddy

2005 XJ8L

 

Gatorman, take heart that your Jaguar is at least the right colour!
This is probably far too simplistic and therefore maybe unhelpful, but have you tried switching to ignition key position 1 and depressing the accelerator slowly and gently through the detente and back up again 5 times?

 

I don't think that can keep your car from starting as it appears P1582 is an "informational" code and can be set by a number of things. Also looks like SDD can clear this. The bad thing is it does not point to any one thing but a number of things?
Code P1582

Another P1582 Thread

Here is probably WAY too much info but a deeper explanation.
Flight Recorder

The attached document talks about the code but it's for an X-Type so may NOT apply to your car?
It does seem that if you only have this code and no other that it does not cause any problems?
Can you get the car hooked up to a working SDD to see if you can clear the code?
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What is a SDD? And what kind of aftermarket reader would I need to clear this level of coding? Someone please give me some aftermarket products that I can buy that will let me keep my English Road Cat purring and running

 

1582 shows a pinched or in America a stolen car. That is the background code that is shutting it all down. The question is how do I get it fixed and what is it going to cost me to get it removed?
spelling

 

SDD is the factory scan tool/software nothing is more in depth.
The moderators are trying to keep it all together because it's a large subject and MANY ways to use it!

If you use the search function all of this has been discussed in detail?
Here is a quick search on SDD it returned 316 threads!
SDD Threads

No that code does NOT indicate that?
Did you read the link I posted above about the flight recorder? All it does is record data for later retrieval?
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Took it to a shop that had a Silver ghost rolls sitting out front and a Maserati beinv worked on. Figured if they had those two and a few Jaguars in the mix this was the place for me. They did a full diagnostic and found several issues.

1. Seven of the eight coins I bought online were bad
2. The previous Richard cranium(use your head) mechanic had sliced two.of the coil wires in the very back of the engine near the firewall, to cause a code and cause me to return to pay them more.money.
3. The air ride suspension had a pin size hole in the line going to the modulator in the trunk.i had paid to have replaced. Also causing a code. He had switched out two of the Relays which caused it to crank not start.

so after all of this got fixed and paying $1285.00 I have a my English Road Cat back on the road. The moral.is if you own a English car don't take it to.some general motors/Ford or some other generic shade.tree.. take it to people who love the automobile you own as.much as you do. Not just for the money it'll cost you to.have them jack it around.