After removing plastic around ww blades, 4 nuts holding housing and the bolt,
we have problems to remove housing and engine compartment panel no matter
how hard we're trying.



Is there some trick to remove cabin's air filter housing?

 

 

There's a 5th bolt on top. Remove then pull out and tilt up.

 

Ah, 5th bolt... where?
Are you talking about marked under "1"? If yes, it's out.

Engine compartment panel is half way out but that's as far as it go.

Arrows in pic on the right point to something "2". What is it in there?

 

Yes, I was referring to "1".

Getting it out is tricky. Make sure you have already removed the windshield cowl. You'll pull the part forward then twist upward.

It's a tight fitment.

 

I actually removed the ECU from inside the car. I did remove the air filter housing, but if memory serves (and it often doesn't I pulled the ECU from under the glove box, by pulling back carpet and under padding. There was a mount of some sort, and as I said, you have to un-cam the harness with a flip lever. I didn't remove the cowl plastic around the wipers, and did all this in a little parking area in front of a pharmacy.

You CAN do this!

 

You have to remove the cabin filter assembly to get access to the torx security bolt. Then once that is loosened then you can pull back the ECU harness, two more bolts holding the ECU and pull the ECU from inside the car.

 

But now there is no power and without it... how da hell I will lock my doors?

There is no problem with driver door, key lock it manually, but what about other doors?
How can I lock them too?

 

Is there any way of testing the condition of the ECU without having to go through this disassembly exercise?

My 2006 X350 just exhibited misfires on cyls 2,4,6 resulting in Restricted Performance, I gather from this excellent post that the ECU is the first thing I should check. I can't see any indication of dampness, nor do the drains seem clogged.

I'm guessing this is something silly that can't be avoided, I'm just really weary of ripping out the plastic cowling given the age and likely fatigue of the material. Who's bright idea was it to stick the ECU next to the water drain?!?

 

Read this link.

A happy ending which may be your happy ending. lol



https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-154370/

 

Unfortunately that does nothing to help me. I did just change the PCV valve; the old one was stuck open, whistling on throttle. I installed a new one and drove a couple of weeks before the misfires, about 15mi total. I also washed the car last week, so it seems like a whole host of coincidences/correlations to whittle through. The new PCV valve doesn't whistle and didn't throw any codes, and the LTFTs are all under ±2%, so it works, as far as I can tell.

I should probably make a new topic for my woes, I was just trying to see if there was an easier way of diagnosing this.

 

Make sure your electrical connection to your throttle body are water tight.

You can check the firewall by the PCM with a flashlight. If you see any white dried residue on the firewall you might have a water ingress issue towards your PCM.

 

Lucky you. This is how my ECU looks like from outside



LOL, you have 3 guesses...
#1 - Geniuses @ Jaguar
#2 - Geniuses @ Jaguar
#3 - Geniuses @ Jaguar

Just see what water does to ECU
Blue stuff are chunks of ice






BTW, you don't have to remove cowling completely, just push it up after removing wipers.

 

Holy Crap!

 

Holy crap indeed. 2 things.

1. Why is the water blue? Car wash formula?
2. Now do you see why I suggested NOT running the car until you got the PCM/ECU out for a look? The misfires, errors, and general electrical mayhem were not productive, but hopefully no lasting damage was done.

It was my thought to disconnect my battery as soon as I knew I was playing with water and electronics. Like wanting to stick the whole car in a bag of rice like an iPhone recovered from the toilet. People who hit phones with a blow dryer don't realize it pushes water deeper into the device.

But I digress. Often, and unnecessarily. Does the PCB look okay after getting it clean and dry?These circuit boards are coated in a protective plastic-like material, and in my case not a bit of damage was inflicted. Once dry it worked as designed, but in my case the board was in water only overnight. Perhaps 10-12 hours. I have to admit yours looks really bad, but how about after clean up? Is there hope for it, or are you now searching for a correct replacement?

I feel really bad this happened to you. I can partly answer the question of why it was placed where it is. On the previous model, the X308 had it in a box on the firewall as well, and my car even had a fan to blow cooled (and heated in winter) cabin air around the module. Consider. The engine compartment is a hostile environment for electronics, yet too much distance from engine and components to the controller is undesirable for some reasons. XJ-S (and XJS) had the controller in the boot/trunk near the battery. That's a long harness but I don't know if that matters. What I know is that putting in in or near the interior keeps it at less extreme temps, and DRYER, from less condensation cycles.

Yes the location near the cabin air intake, and its drain is unfortunate. Not sure if RHD cars put it on the left in a mirror image, but space constraints make it likely.

The major take away is simply KEEP THE CABIN AIR INTAKE DRAIN CLEAR. Thanks, Captain Obvious I hear, but seriously. It's a good sized hose, and the opening has a little spike. I wonder if a screen or cap was designed but later eliminated. I do 2 things. I blow air through it, and also take the hose and spray pressured water through to clear the line. No power washer! Just a hose spray nozzle. It's too easy for leaves, and compost from old leaves to block this drain. Then it takes just one high volume water event - like the rinse cycle at a car was to wreak the horror show that the pictures above depict. BE PROACTIVE FOLKS. GO CHECK YOU CABIN AIR FILTER DRAIN RIGHT NOW! GO AHEAD. WE WILL WAIT.

If I save one drowned kitty with my public service your car announcement it will be worth it!

 

I think this merits inclusion in the "X350-Things to know" sticky. Think of the poor drowned kittens that may be saved!

I will try to suggest it to the moderators.

Good luck, and please let us know how you make out with this situation. I am doubtful, but still hoping the PCM survived its Atlantis event.

 

The ECM of the Audi A4 was put in a dip in the (RHD) driver foot-well. After a US class action, due to many swamped ECMs it was put in its own 'Tupperware' box.

 

Looks perfect after couple hours of drying and cleaning.
Now I'm making sure water will never get in by using silicone around cover and specially connector.
On top of that, I'm using self-adhesive rubber based sealing gorilla tape around all edges making sure
protection is stronger than gorilla himself.

I don't know yet if all my efforts are going to be paid but as soon as I replace all the parts (a bunch of them,
to maintain car after 100,000 miles click) and if everything is working as it should, I'll let you know how many
vodka shots made my spirit high and my piece of mind satisfied.

I couldn't have said it better myself


Indeed my man, indeed

 

That is a really frighting sight, will be checking my drain tomorrow!

The XJS ecu is on the left hand side of the passenger foot well behind the bulge in the trim panel in my UK spec RHD 1992 face lift.
Had to pull it to test wiring a couple of years ago due to non start... problem ended up being a 5 Euro relay.

 

Update.
Cleaning ECU didn't make any difference.
It would start, work for 2 - 3 seconds and then die.
Holding gas pedal down and starting would run if I keep it around 3K RPM as before
and misfire like a hail if I try go 4K and up. So, nothing has changed from before ice or
no ice or water, which makes me to believe the problem is not necessary ECU or it's
baked beyond repair and need to be replaced.

Or as suggested above, there is something else and the question is, where to start looking?