After having the No Heat problem previously I noticed the flange on the coolant tank was broken so I replaced with a new one. Looks like there is plenty of coolant in tank and when its cold the coolant is at the correct level in the tank but when i run the car it warns me the coolant level is low. Whats up with that?

 

What is the coolant level in the reservoir actually showing when hot?

You could have air in your system. Several threads here cover topping off so verify the coolant is actually low when hot.

 

Sean, when the engine is cool should the upper rad hose be full of water and under pressure or partially full and collapsible?

 

When cold, the cooling system is full of water and under no pressure. The reservoir is full to the "cold level" line.

There should be no hoses collapsing. This is a vacuum created in your system, usually due to a constriction somewhere in the system, probably the expansion tank return line or bleed valve. Remove the cap and see if the hose returns to normal.

 

[QUOTE=Sean Wagstaff;1329183]When cold, the cooling system is full of water and under no pressure. The reservoir is full to the "cold level" line.

There should be no hoses collapsing. This is a vacuum created in your system, usually due to a constriction somewhere in the system, probably the expansion tank return line or bleed valve. Remove the cap and see if the hose returns to normal.[/QUOTE.

 

Sorry Sean, I meant the upper rad hose collapses when I squeeze it, should it be full of water with no air in it?

 

Yes correct. The entire system should be full when cold. No air.

 

So, should I be able to squeeze the upper rad hose or should it be firm and full of water with the cap on?

 

Yes it should be full of coolant. Yes you should be able to squeeze it and when you do, the coolant in the reservoir should rise.

Firm is a relative term. If they are easily squeezable when cold, change them but, generally, I test them warm (not hot as you don't want to burn yourself), and not cold. This is important as hoses are softer under normal operating temp and this is when it matters.

You should be able to squeeze them and they should be firm but not hard and they shouldn't have any bulging near the clamps.

So to give you some type of gauge to judge firmness, try this. Take a plastic water bottle (normal plastic bottle. Not one of those incredibly thin ones that crackle when you squeeze them). Fill the water bottle 7/8 full of water and put the cap back on. Now squeeze it. That's about right for a cold hose.

 

I'm working on the theory now that the coolant is not the right percentage to float the float in the reservoir because water levels look good, no leaks and heat is blowing. I went and bought a gauge thinking it would tell me percentage but it only tells degrees of protection, what does 50/50 antifreeze protect to hot and cold?

 

Dexcool extended life antifreeze

-34F to 265F @ 50/50.

 

I was of the impression that the reservoirs had a low coolant electrical sensor at the bottom of the reservoir, not a float.

Check your electrical connection.

 

i so a video somewhere that mentioned afloat, when i took the old reservoir off i heard something rattling inside and assumed it was a float. i assumed the float makes some kind of connection when its at the bottom. Anyways i checked the coolant strength and it is 50/50 good for 265 heat and -37 cold. The engine coolant low error is still on but plenty of heat today and the reservoir is full. Is there a sensor some where else other than the coolant tank. Can I assume there is no fault now?