Dear all, I have read many times here of the coolant reservoir leak/failure. Haven’t paid much attention. But now mine is leaking.

What is the nature of this leak? It seems to be coming from the bottom-most connection. What causes it? Can it be repaired? Obviously replacement is an option. How do I know what is best?

2009 XJ SV8 Portfolio
1972 E Type, S3, 2+2
1990 XJ 40 Sovereign- gone but not forgotten
1974 E Type Roadster- slowly rusting away
1968 TR 250

 

That bottom connection is by a press to click fitting. Separate the fitting by sliding the metal clip to one side, after draining the cooling system to below its level. There is a narrow O-ring in the female connector. Check its condition. You can put a smear of silicone grease around the inside of the female connector and the outside of the male connector on the bottom of the reservoir. Ensure that the metal clip is back in place with the withdrawal loop close to the connector side. Push down on the reservoir while holding the female connector upwards. When you hear an audible click from the metal clip, but not before, the connector is correctly fitted. A firm press is needed to ensure complete connection.

 

It is recommended to replace the reservoir too. The connector for the small hose at the top of the reservoir is well known to break off if looked at closely.
When the engine is hot if this happens the entire content of the rservoir will squirt into the engine compartment.

Fritz

 

The top nipple on the end of mine started leaking after the valley hose was replaced. Tried to clamp off, ordered a new tank from the dealer in Knoxville.
After replacing, that bottom connector started leaking. Saw that it was not sitting straight. Passenger side was not all the way down. Reinstalled a few times. Always started dripping after a few days or drives.
My hose does not have an o-ring. But finally loosened tank, shoved tight toward driver side. And pried that hose, looks like it goes to heater, to the passenger side. Buttoned up.
It has not leaked since and hose is seated straight on the nipple.
It is a rats nest in there, solid hoses.

 

The Chinese ones, seem to be the same quality, (not very good) as the ones i replaced.
Both are working well so far, but i kept the old sensors, & radiator caps just in case

 

This option is my choice too for NA vehicles. For supercharged cars the OEM was all I found. Spent hours searching.

 

I take that as a heads up!

 

The supercharged ones have an extra barb on the tank. I also spent ages looking and had to go to the *******s for one in the end. TBH it wasn't as bad as I was expecting and they had one in stock!
Why is s t e a l e r stared out. Is it a naughty word in the US?

 

I removed the reservoir today and cleaned it up. I see no obvious defect to it but will see if I can pressure test it. But the truth is that it was a gravity-drip… required no pressure. I could see that the drip seems to come from either the bottom connector or possibly lower. I also noticed a mounting bolt missing from the aux pump. I will look at the connector, clean it, etc. I will replace the res if I find anything that can’t be fixed.

BTW, I don’t see anyone talking about replacing the o-ring in the connector. I really don’t want to replace any more hoses right now!

 

JoeDredd, I get your comment about the ***********. When I was buying parts for my valley hose redo I tried to buy local but no way. Not only did my nearest dealer not give a discount they actually charged a premium for my parts. I ended up getting them with a 15% discount from another dealer in another state. Has anyone found better than 15%?

 

My 06 str has the same setup and had the same problem. I replaced the o ring inside the hose connector and put a layer of perfect seal AKA. Aviation form a gasket and reinstalled the hose and put everything back together and let it sit overnite. Filled up with coolant and problem solved. The sealant takes care of not being exactly 100% lined up to perpendicular

 

I endorse this statement - it's plastic and small and be careful.
My Indy had some other hoses to replace and broke off that nipple. Which required a whole new reservoir. What can you do? Argue whether the plastic was brittle or not? How many other Indy's within reasonable distance was my actual mind cogitations at the time...
My problem was worse. The original hose replacement was x$ below my mechanical warranty claim level. With the replacement reservoir, suddenly double that but then I couldn't claim as a separate problem.
So, $700 or so as it eventually turned out. For some hoses. I like to take refuge in the fact that my wife costs me more. Or Does She?

 

Harper Jaguar in Knoxville
they have an online department. If you need parts check with them.
The locals give discounts to regular customers like repair shops. We usually get zero. They do not want our business.

 

The coolant reservoir was poorly engineered with respect to the notoriously fracturing plastic nipple on top. Actually, I was struggling in installing an OEM coolant reservoir in my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L after the top nipple of the old coolant reservoir fractured, and began to leak. However, when all was said and done, the repair was successful. Needless to say, just about nothing in the X350 Jaguars is easy to service, and including the light bulbs.

 

Coolant dye and pressure tester. I have chased leaks that appear to be from point 'A' only to find the leak was from point 'B'. Coolant will follow whatever it drips on.

 

I found that the drip at the lower pipe was due to either a failure to get it locked in with both wire clicks OR the o-ring in the pipe had a little excessive wear on it. I pressure tested and found no problem. My solution was to slide a very thin o-ring onto the reservoir where the pipe clicks on. It was small enough to still go on easily but thick enough to do the job. Dry as a bone tonite!

 

Excellent

 

Way to go! Not every fix on our Jags cost $1K just to drive by the dealership.

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...97046-1020.pdf

known problem part got updated multiple times

 

wonder why the s type is excluded. Same tank i thought