After a 500 mile trip on a car carrier my '04 VDP was in my driveway! I was only able to drive it about 4 miles. I had one concern immediately. When they rolled it off the truck (after being cinched down on the truck) it looked a little low in the back. I then noticed that it was rising and stopped after about a minute at what appears to be proper height. Would being cinched down on the truck create this situation? It appeared as I watched him unload it that only the wheels were cinched, there was no downward pressure on the car body. What say you all? I definitely saw it rising after being unloaded. Suspension leak? Otherwise the car is pristine, interior still smelled new!

 

Well, three miles into my maiden voyage this morning I get the "Air Suspension Fault" message... I'll search and see what I should do. The car seemed to ride ok, still dark out so I can really tell if its sitting at the proper height. I'll check in an hour or so.

 

Sagging suspension after some time (a week?) is not abnormal, provided it recovers apfter a ride.
3 miles is not much, did you drive it at a speed above 35 mph ?
The compressor starts acting at that speed and needs a couple of minutes to replenish the tank.

 

Yes, drove it about 15 miles, varying speeds but mostly 35-60 mph. The message didn't go out at any point. I'm about to take another ride, its been sitting for an hour or so. I'll see what happens and report back. Thanks for the advice.

 

Just got back from a 16 mile ride and NO CODES! I'm thinking maybe the one code I did get was a residual from being tied down and transported and now that it has had a chance to sort itself out everything will be OK (fingers crossed...).

 

The car was SUPPOSED to be set to TRANSPORTATION MODE for that situation.

You would need dealer level diagnostics to perform the operations.

I only ever set the cars FROM Transportation Mode to Customer Mode when I performed PDI (NEW CAR). No one ever asked to set the car to Transportation Mode for shipping. It would need to be set back to Customer Mode after the ride.

Sounds like 'No Harm Done' and the car has recovered.

Some reading material for you.

bob

 

Thanks bob, I thought I had read everything there was, but I haven't read the one about transportation, thanks!

New question: The car has a fresh oil/filter change from the selling dealer (a Volvo dealer) but I have no idea what oil was put in it. Should I change it to the proper Castrol or ride this one out or maybe do an early change?

 

Ring the dealer and ask?

As long as the oil is 5/30 grade it will be fine.

You will love it.

Sounds like you love it allready.

 

Everything seems to be working great, except these occasional Air Suspension Fault notices. They go away after its shut off for a while, sometimes they come back next trip, sometimes not. I don't notice anything off about the suspension, doesn't seem to be sinking anywhere. Only thing I have noticed is it seems to be somewhat rougher when the fault is present. Is that because the CATS defaults to the sport setting when the fault appears?

 

Any oil that says it complies with Ford (Jaguar) WSS M2C913-B or -C or -D is the pukka (ie correct) stuff.

Edit: I looked into this a few years ago and then the following all complied with 913-B (or better):

Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 A1
Shell Helix Ultra AF 5W-30
BP Visco 5000 FE 5W-30
Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30
Q8 Techno 5W-30
Gulf Formula FS 5W-30
Total Quartz 9000 Future NFC 5W-30
Ford Formula F 5w30

"Other oils are available".

 

Thanks for the assistance Patrick, much appreciated. I have Castrol Edge 5W-30 that claims to meet Ford WSS-M2C946-A and is API SL rated. The LAST thing I want to do is turn this into an oil thread! I will use one of the approved oils that you recommended. I am much more concerned about my suspension at the moment.

I am no expert on this car by any means (yet) but I find no problems with the suspensions operation. I do not know, however, how often and how long my compressor runs. The car has not sat still more than 12 hours since I got it so hasn't had much of a chance to deflate.

 

My money is on the compressor needing replacement or a rebuild with "Bagpipingandy's" kit. If you're a DIYer this is a fairly simple thing to do. YOu might also change the dessicant in the water trap while you're about it.

Might also be a good idea to get the car up on ramps and check out the suspension bushes. This will give you an idea of what might need doing in the near future. Tyres last a long time on these cars because the geometry is always correct with the air suspension, so if the some are unevenly worn, it is a warning to you.

 

Several good points here Fraser. Thanks. Could the compressor need replacement at just over 30K? I already have one of Andy's kits, just in case! I may put it in this weekend just as PM. Regarding the dessicant, unfortunately, I am of the age where I receive medications in the mail on a regular basis...these contain little bags of dessicant. I have at least a dozen lying around. Is this the same material? If not, where would I find it? Lastly, the bushes. Again low miles on the car but 14 years old. The age of the bushings probably did more damage than the miles. I will check those out ASAP. Thank you again. OH, one last question: I know I have seen this but I cannot find it now, what is the proper ride height measured from hub center to under edge of wheelwell? I think its around 380mm but probably different front and back. Someone please point me to these numbers. TIA

 

+1 on the compressor seal.

The dessicant is molecular sieve an the 'little bags' will contain silica gel.

Flow Dry - Silica Gel Desiccant Versus Molecular Sieve Adsorbent: Which Desiccant is Best -

 

Very interesting. I guess I'll need to find some or "dry" that that is in my system now. If that's possible.

I'm glad to see a second vote for the simple solution of the replacement compressor piston ring. I'll see if I can install that this weekend. Thank you all.

 

I replaced DOZENS of compressors in NEW CAR FACTORY WARRANTY. (please check the compressor RELAY first)

Since your car is over a decade old, why would 30K miles make a difference?????? They were kinda 'iffy' when NEW.

bob

 

I guess I was thinking lack of use may make it last longer.... I'll check the relay in the morning. I'll search that now and find out what I need to do.

Measurements for ride height? Anyone got those? I want to be sure I don't have a sinking corner. I have an uneven driveway and it's difficult to tell. Fortunately, if I do it's not obvious!

 

Drove 40 miles to work this morning, no ASF message. Took it to lunch, got 1 mile down the road and on it came. I'll see what happens when I drive home. I haven't had a chance to check the relay, I will get that this evening.

 

You need to remove the relay and gently pry the cover off. Detach the spring for the contact plate and inspect the CONTACTS.

They are likely BURNT after all these years. I recommend keeping a spare or swap it with something like a horn relay or other non critical function.

bob

 

Thanks bob. I will do that in about three hours. I also read somewhere here that I can switch the #1 relay (in the under hood fuse box) which is the compressor with the #6 relay which I believe was the fog lights. First I'll pull number one and open it up and see what I've got. I have some electrical contact cleaner and assorted small tools so this should be pretty simple. If I find trouble I may take a pic or two. Are these relays difficult to find or can I get a replacement at my local NAPA? Thanks again for the instruction.