Driver's side heat weak; flush didn't work
#1
Driver's side heat weak; flush didn't work
Hello again, per my previous post, my driver's side heat isn't as hot as passenger side. Mechanic reverse flushed cooling system to no avail. He's pretty confident that it's a blend door problem but we haven't discussed estimate yet. Anybody have experience with this type of repair? Time and cost involved? Many thanks. 2005 XJ8 VDP.
#2
#3
Here is a "How it works" from the X350 shop manual. It looks like the one core has two sections, so one side of yours could be blocked.
You didn't say if this is all the time or just at low speeds and idle. If if gives normal heat at higher engine speeds; then the aux coolant pump isn't working.
You didn't say if this is all the time or just at low speeds and idle. If if gives normal heat at higher engine speeds; then the aux coolant pump isn't working.
#4
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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ok again I answer same issue. did he blow it out first? I have cut many cores open(theres only one) and the drivers side portion is on the end loop and gets plugged with sediment from the cooling system(never found sand). If its been flushed and blown out, you need to replace the core..This issue comes up EVERY yr when it starts to get cold and people use the heater again after a summer of non use.
#5
There isn't a hot water shut off valve on the X350 so hot water circulates through the matrix all the time so there is little point having dual cores.
Air temperature is purely controlled using the blend flaps enabling driver and passenger to select their own temperatures.
#6
#7
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#8
In this part of the forum X350 etc. go to: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-links-20085/
Go down until you see the part about workshop files and download "Electrical" and you will find the info about replacing the heater core there.
I would try putting something that vibrates against the pipes and see if the blockage will shake loose. Call a plumber and see what cleans out copper pipes.
Go down until you see the part about workshop files and download "Electrical" and you will find the info about replacing the heater core there.
I would try putting something that vibrates against the pipes and see if the blockage will shake loose. Call a plumber and see what cleans out copper pipes.
#9
As cold weather has finally come to North Texas, I have come to the conclusion that my car is suffering from the same malady as Anxious Jim's car. I have exactly the same symptoms he describes, with the driver's side noticeably less warm than the passenger's side. Some intuitive "best practices" kicked in. I began cycling the airflow speed and direction, putting the ventilation system "through its paces", i.e., floor only hi/low speed, floor and a/c vent mix, hi/low, defrost and floor hi/low, etc., with a/c w/o a/c, recirc./not recirc., system set to "dual", system set for both to work in together, etc, etc, every combination I could think of.
This has brought the system back, over a period of a couple of weeks, back to where the temperature on the driver's side is once again very close to the passenger side.
This has brought the system back, over a period of a couple of weeks, back to where the temperature on the driver's side is once again very close to the passenger side.
#13
Mine has been partially plugged for 2 years. The 2nd winter I had the car I had no heat at all. Here is what I found.... The main problem was the auxiliary electric water pump (below coolant reservoir) This feeds water through the core, mine was shot and non functional. (no Flow) Dealer wants $400+ for the part. They can be found on ebay for $80 or less. It is the same pump that is on a 02' VW jetta 1.8 turbo. Once I replaced that and back flushed the core (with no chemicals) I had heat everywhere except the drivers dash vents. Thats the way it has been for 2 years. I am going to try and flush it with CLR or denture cleaner and see what happens. I talked with a Jag tech of mine. He said that the foam insulation on the blend doors can deteriorate and fall on the core blocking airflow. He also mentioned that the core can be removed with little effort by removing the glove box, cutting the steel pipe, and making a joint with rubber hose once the new core is installed. If the chemical flush doesn't work, this is what I am going to start with and verify that it can be done this way
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hrkeyes (02-18-2012)
#15
Hello again, per my previous post, my driver's side heat isn't as hot as passenger side. Mechanic reverse flushed cooling system to no avail. He's pretty confident that it's a blend door problem but we haven't discussed estimate yet. Anybody have experience with this type of repair? Time and cost involved? Many thanks. 2005 XJ8 VDP.
#16
This is not true, replacing the heater core is a 4 hr labor job that requires removing the glove box and fan housing only, not the dash. I have not heard of needing to replace the whole housing either unless it was damaged in a collision. The blend doors and electric motors are very tough and designed for a long life. I would also mention that there are two temp sensors in the outlet air duct that control the system , so be sure you know what you are working on. I suggest getting a trusted pro to deal with this but protect yourself from wholesale replacements, the core is not hard to replace.
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Don B (01-29-2016)
#18
#19
I found 11 V6's and only 4 V8's of various flavours, one of which was mine
It was only a quick search but I didn't spot any diesels so may be something changed from '06 on or they just haven't got to the point of blocking yet.
#20
Hello again, per my previous post, my driver's side heat isn't as hot as passenger side. Mechanic reverse flushed cooling system to no avail. He's pretty confident that it's a blend door problem but we haven't discussed estimate yet. Anybody have experience with this type of repair? Time and cost involved? Many thanks. 2005 XJ8 VDP.
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