Recently I was driving and all of a sudden had a red and yellow error light showing that I had a DSC fault and a parking brake fault. I pulled over and turn the car off and pulled out the key. As usual the parking brake engaged. So the parking brake is not and has not been stuck. after I set for a few minutes started the car back up and everything was back to normal. It has done it three times since then and every time I turn off the car and let it sit for a minute everything returns back to normal. I have read a lot of threads on this issue and then very confused. can someone please point me in the right direction. thank you

 

Suspect a bad earth behind the headlamps.

Scanning for DTC's will reveal more.

 

+1 on the bad ground and checking the codes. A weak battery can cause this as well. Make sure the battery is fully charged and get it load tested if you can.

 

Thanks guys, I will start with those 2 suggestions.

 

I recently had this problem too and it was the ground points at the front of the car. I have replaced two of the three as one snapped off and the other still had problems even after cleaning it. Your's should be a problem with the two behind the left hand headlight as you are facing the car. One of those is the ground for the engine, park brake, wipers and other things so it causes a lot of problems if it's corroded.

 

Can that ground also throw a GEARBOX FAULT?

I have fixed the top ground on the left side (as you look from the front), but I left the lower one as it seemed intact. It might be corroded. It's in a tough spot to get at though, so I left it for now. I am still getting PARKBRAKE FAULT and GEARBOX FAULT.

I had the battery on charge all night and as far as I can tell it is fully charger, but I have had a long standing problem with the battery becoming drained to flat, but I had wondered if that was because the top ground wire was corroded and then finally sheared off.

 

I'm not sure if that ground point would cause the gearbox fault.

If I was in your position I would put in a new ground point, somewhere you can get the connectors moved to, but not too close to the other ground point and move the connectors to the new ground point. Just leave the other old one in place. I had a ground point that looked ok but was causing random faults. I cleaned it and it made no difference. A new ground point solved the problem.

 

Thanks JX350. I might have to remove the passenger side headlights to get at that grounding post. The other one that I did fixed a lot of issues that I was having, but that one had sheared off completely, so not a huge surprise.

 

No problem Leslie. Like I said, I had one that was not broken but corroded up. Even cleaning it still didn't completely work but a new ground point worked perfectly.

The ground points on the side you are dealing with is one of the ground points that sheared off on mine and is where the engine is grounded and other areas of the car are grounded to. The bottom one (arrowed in red in the picture below) broke when I tried to undo it. I just added a new ground point at the location arrowed in blue and reattached the connections from the bottom broken ground point to that one. The cables reached the new ground point location without a problem. They are not tight or being stretched. I now don't have any electrical issues. The new ground point is about 1.5 inches apart from the old top ground point.

Just so you are aware, the yellow connector attached to my ground point is for my LPG system so you will not have it on your bottom ground point.

I will at some point get around to replacing the other ground point next to it just to be on the safe side but the clean on that one worked fine for now.

Thanks,

Chris


Old broken lower ground point arrowed in red. Arrowed in blue is the new ground point with the relocated electrical connectors moved from bottom ground to the new one.

 

Chris, in practice how did you do to drill the new ground point in that difficult to access area?
Also did you make special preparation of the metal before screwing the cables?

 

hi paydase,

I didn't drill it in the bottom area as you can't get to it without removing the headlight assembly and I didn't have time to do that. I drilled a new hole just to the right of the top ground point, as my drill would reach, and mounted a new bolt and attached the electrical connectors from the bottom broken bolt to the new ground point.

I didn't do too much prep to the metal. I just removed the fuse box, drilled the hole, removed a small amount of paint from around the hole so that the bolt and washers would make a good connection to the body.

Thanks,

Chris

 

I was lucky enough to find a complete throttle and sensor on eBay for $60 and put the sensor on my car and so far it is running perfect and it has been about 2 months so we will see how it goes from now on

 

Great news. Glad you got is sorted and that it's still running great. Out of interest, did you change the throttle because of a fault code with the position sensor?

 

Happens to me when it rains too much with a lot of water on the road and then it goes away after you turn the car off for a while.Doesn't do it on dry ☀️ days.So I don't think it's a big deal since i know what causes it.I just now read that yours goes away after you let the car sit for a while too.So it's no big deal to worry about that.It's a once in a blue moon thing and it's ok to think of it as the TPMS warning indicator on the dash as often as that comes on.The Jag have a slight hiccup every now&then where if everything still works like normal and the fault codes goes away,means it's nothing really wrong with the Jag.Also maybe in damp cold conditions as well could make it turn on

 

I recently replaced and the front and rear lower control arms, front upper controls arms, front and rear tie rod ends, front and rear sway bar end links and front ball joints, front wheel bearing plus a four-wheel alignment. The car drives and steering fantastic. I did have extreme difficulty getting the braking brake to reset and then out of no where I get the " DCS Fault and the Windshield Wipers don't turn on. The car then sits in the sun for a while everything works. Take it through the car wash and the DSC Fault comes on, After the car wash I dry the car and DCS Fault goes away. No drivability or braking issues. Yesterday rained all day and very damp start the car and DSC Fault comes on. Today start the car and everything is fine.

Obviously something gets wet and is causes the fault. Checked electrical connections along the fire wall and found nothing. This all sounds similar to the "BAD Ground" issues experienced in above posts. I am going to check the grounds. Does anyone know the approximate locations of the grounds that effect the wipers and DSC? I will check them all but it would save a lot of time if I knew the approximate locations.

 

As I stated above regarding DSC Fault and Windshield Wiper failing when damp rainy and at car wash. This thread pointed me to check the grounds. I also found the same aluminum ground connections very corroded. They are accessed by removing the plastic radiator trim panel and are clearly visible on the G2 & G3 right side behind the headlight assembly opposite side of the fuse box. I removed the right headlight housing cover to get more access. G1 on the left side behind headlight assembly is unobstructed.

I was able to clean G2 ground post and connectors, however the G3 post just snapped off. I removed the connections from the back of the fuse panel. It allowed me to move it out of the way. I drilled a 1/4" hose, close as possible to the location of the snapped off stud. After removing paint around the hole, I installed a 1/4"-20 stainless steel bolt, a lock washer and nut to the G3 new ground stud to the body panel. I painted the bolt head and lock washer to protect it from corrosion. After cleaning the ground leads I secured to my new G3 stud with a second locking 1/4"-20 stainless steel nut and coated the exterior with some dielectric silicone grease.

The most difficult issue was reinstalling the headlight access cover. Getting the bottom of the cover to engage the mount on the bottom of the housing is frustrating but possible. I no longer experience DSC Fault during damp wet weather or at carwash

Left side grounds G2 and G3. G3 snapped off and replaced with stainless steel bolt (right).

Right side ground G1