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The owner told me to change both 02 sensors then it would pass smog. Then I took it to a shop they said it’s leaking air in the back of the engine. Give him 1000 bucks and he’ll fix it so idk what to do honestly. Any ideas guys? The air filter is fine doesn’t look to dirty. I appreciate any feedback. I just wanna be able to smog the car….
Get yourself a decent ODBC 'scan tool'. I had used an iCarsoft i930, upgraded to the iCarsoft LR V3 when I added a Range Rover Sport L320.
Trying to own and operate a(ny) recent JLR motor vehicle with OUT a good scan tool - and learning what it is trying to tell you - is a sure way to get into the bizness of paying a LOT of other people $1,000 here... $4,000 there.... $12,000 somewhere else, etc. ..............and not even really knowing WHY ...... or if it is a good idea or bad.
Page Two:
Any recent motor vehicle acquisition, 'used': 'Job One' is to grab the factory manual - dead-tree-, .pdf. or 'online in small bites', get at the 'service intervals' rota, figure out which of the many and several recommended renew, refesh, replace, adjust or simply CHECK needfuls have been neglected, or MIGHT have been neglected, then backfill to bring each item up to date.
Doing that.. with your scan tool as guide-dog and "snitch", will build you the picture of what it needs already, WILL need "real soon, now" or what can be left to wait for NEXT 'budget package'.
Many among us do this BEFORE buying, BTW.
Can avoid the cost of Preparation H et al by the pallet if nothing else.
Anyone else notice that the stated battery voltage on that printout was only at 12.08 volts.
X350/X358 do not like such low battery voltages, as it plays head games with their systems and may make them throw spurious codes as a result.
Suggest rechecking battery voltage to make sure you don't have a weak battery, or a potential charging deficiency due to an alternator fault.
Charge battery up to see if it settles to a decent 12.6 volt level or slightly above.
"Air leak back of engine..."
- This is v probably brake booster fitting in throttle body. Common issue. Generally can be fixed by simply tapping tapered bushing into throttle body. Suggest gently securing booster line with zip tie to engine before tightening bushing. Engine motion is what loosens the bushing. Fixing just takes a few minutes if bushing is intact.
"12.08 V"..."
- Replace your battery. Suggest Exide from Home Depot, as it is cheap and good, having higher surface voltage than similar batteries.
These are great cars. Get yourself a decent scanner and research issues on this forum before opening your wallet at the repair shop.
"Air leak back of engine..."
- This is v probably brake booster fitting in throttle body. Common issue. Generally can be fixed by simply tapping tapered bushing into throttle body. Suggest gently securing booster line with zip tie to engine before tightening bushing. Engine motion is what loosens the bushing. Fixing just takes a few minutes if bushing is intact.
"12.08 V"..."
- Replace your battery. Suggest Exide from Home Depot, as it is cheap and good, having higher surface voltage than similar batteries.
These are great cars. Get yourself a decent scanner and research issues on this forum before opening your wallet at the repair shop.
Yeah thank you, also it wants to give out when I try to take it up too speed so I have to gradually speed it up. If that makes sense. Do I have to take out the super charge in order to get to those hoses? and do you think that’ll fix the issues so I am able to smog it?
eah thank you, also it wants to give out when I try to take it up too speed so I have to gradually speed it up. If that makes sense.
Do I have to take out the super charge in order to get to those hoses? NO
and do you think that’ll fix the issues so I am able to smog it?
Do exactly as I suggested above Open service manual PDF in stickies on this forum, and educate yourself about the throttle body and brake booster junction. Large leak will produce your symptoms and set CEL.
"Air leak back of engine..."
- This is v probably brake booster fitting in throttle body. Common issue. Generally can be fixed by simply tapping tapered bushing into throttle body. Suggest gently securing booster line with zip tie to engine before tightening bushing. Engine motion is what loosens the bushing. Fixing just takes a few minutes if bushing is intact.
The brass bush in the throttle body is not the faulty part unless someone has butchered it. The hose that fits into it is a thick-walled plastic (polypropylene?) tube. The tube is sealed to the bush with an O-ring. The tube is retained in the bush by a plastic clip.
There is a repair kit C2S15816 that is common to many Jaguars of this era. In the kit are the brass bush, the O-ring and the plastic clip.
Usually the plastic clip is broken, and the O-ring has gone hard and broken.
Pull the tube out of the throttle body, clean up the end. Extract the clip and old O-ring. Fit the new O-ring into the bush and put the clip on the end of the hose. Push the hose in and feel the O-ring holding it. Push the clip in to retain the tube. C2S15816 Brake Booster Repair Kit