When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This appears to be what I need (Picture below): Ford/Yazaki 1.5 Terminal Female, 18 -16 gauge.
From the old connector I have labeled where the wires & the plug go (1,2,3,4). As I understand it, I will clip the old connector & stick the wires in the appropriate holes through the back & acquire the appropriate crimping tool to attach the terminal & then push the terminal back into the connector? Does this sound right? I probably should have gotten a pig tail & spliced.
This appears to be what I need (Picture below): Ford/Yazaki 1.5 Terminal Female, 18 -16 gauge.
From the old connector I have labeled where the wires & the plug go (1,2,3,4). As I understand it, I will clip the old connector & stick the wires in the appropriate holes through the back & acquire the appropriate crimping tool to attach the terminal & then push the terminal back into the connector? Does this sound right? I probably should have gotten a pig tail & spliced.
Steve!
I told you: you do not have to molest wires and cut old contacts! Contacts crimped on wires with seals are inserted into connector from BACK, not front!
As you have new connector you can cut old one apart to see how contact held in place.
Before anything else: take a picture showing what color wire goes in what connector cavity!
My bet is that red piece will snap off if you will pull it forward. Just chek with new connector, if I am correct in my guess, on new connector that red piece should be about 1mm or less forward compare to old one.
When you will pull it forward it will release latches, that hold contact in connector.
Pull by wire back. It will be some resistance because silicon seal has a lot of friction after all those years of temperature. It will come out together with contact crimped on wire.
Take that as is together with contact and seal and shove it in the back corresponding cavity on new connector.
Do that with rest of the wires.
While keeping wires/contacts preloaded forward in all cavities, snap red piece back in position.
Now you're all set! contact are now secured in new housing
If I am wrong that red piece a lock for contacts, you can carve carefully old connector with Dremel tool to see how this connector works.
I have been working with these type connectors for quite some time.
Circled tab is a STOP for contact in connector cavity; it prevents contact slide forward more than needed. Red piece has a latching bar that snaps behind that latching tab to prevent it from being pulled out of the back.
It is possble that I am wrong, my experience tells me "not likely, BK, you need to be a little more assertive..."
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help! It will take a week or so to get the "kit" shown above. I first ordered the connector alone. Thanks to you, I will be ready when the kit arrives!
The cam covers are as clean as new & awaiting the gaskets, etc. which arrived yesterday!
Steve, if I am correct in my assumtions mentioned above, you will not need a crimp tool!
Unless you want it for something else...:
Consider versatility: someting with interchangable jaws
Unfortunately, the wire terminals could not be released from the connector as we had hoped. Hence, I clipped the 3 wires as close to the old connector as possible. You will see that I have installed the seals on the wires; next, I will srip 1/4" of the casing off of each wire; then, I will crimp terminal onto the seal and the bare part of the wire. The terminals will then click into the appropriate slots...
QUESTIONS:
Will the wire be long enough? In retrospect, I probably should have just crimped a new pigtail to the old wires.I have no way to know for sure, but common sense would say that it should be; however, we all question our common sense with our experiences as X-350 owners. I would hate to be ready to plug it into the MAP sensor only to find that it doesn't quite reach. Does anyone know that the wire will be long enough considering that 1/2" has been cut off?
It would be great if I could unplug the pig tail from behind that whatever-the-hell that plastic cover is called. I have been unsuccessful in identifying it. Does anyone know the name that can be found in the manual or with a google search? The dang thing has a hinge on the left. Does that hinge release allowing the front plastic piece to come off so I can see where the pigtail is plugged?
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, espepecially Big Koshka.
Unfortunately, I was not able to remove the original terminals from the broken connector. However, I was able to crimp to new terminals and install into new receptacle.
There are several good YouTubes on the subject.
I used the iCrimp IWC-14248 tool. Would have been better to have a ratcheted crimper, but I was able to get it to work, but I went through a couple of terminals. I ordered 10 terminals for $2.90 from Ballenger Motorsports.
Because of my aged eyes and the location of the connector, this was difficult for me. However, if I have to do this again, it will be easier (Pray I don't!!).