I've searched the forum half the night. I've checked all the relevant fuses. I've disconnected the battery a dozen times. The key will only go in 1/2 way. Everything else works normally, including global open (mistake, I can't close the windows now, sunroof closed with manual global lock)

Help!

The Car: 2004 XJ8 Vanden Plas - 79,000 miles - no garage - bought in 2008 with 33,000 miles - still needs rear lower bushings & rear tie rods

This evening I replaced the front passenger wheel bearing hub assembly, which was so loud it was embarrassing. It's not a fun job due to the steel fusing to the aluminum. About 75% of the time is just pounding on the hub with a sledge hammer. I replaced the driver’s side 2 weeks ago. (I've read all of those posts too).

As I worked on the hub I turned the wheels back & forth through the window to get at the hub bolts more easily (as before). I didn't realize it at the time, but the key was not in the ignition (as before). I don't ever recall being able to do that before.

When I was finally done I could not get the key in the ignition. I suspect it has something to do with the steering wheel locking mechanism, from what I’ve read tonight.

So far I have jacked the car back up on bother sides to more easily turn the steering wheel to center it while trying the key. I locked the wheels left & right, tried spinning the wheels by hand, disconnected the battery at each variation, and pulled fuses for an hour.

Aghh!

Any insight to this problem will be greatly appreciated.

 

Just in case the key is worn, have you tried a different key, and is the key ok in the door and the boot lid?

But as you have been turning the steering with no key in, I agree, it is more likely the steering lock is damaged.

 

Worn key is not the issue.
I plan to start taking the dash under the steering column apart tonight to see if I can see to problem. It's my daily driver and I'm blocking our other vehicle so it's urgent that I resolve this ASAP.


Has anyone had this issue?
I can't find a diagram of the steering column lock mechanism. Can someone post a link? I've gone through a ton of downloads, to no avail.

 

So it seemd to be OK now, after I pocked a small screwdriver around in the ingnition.
Go figure.

 

that's interesting


I use Abloy cylinder locks, and the Chubb AVA which has a similar system.


It is possible (though unusual) if you put the key in part way and wiggle it, then withdraw, to disturb the alignment of the disks from the "parked" position. I can only remember that happening once. As you say, a screwdriver (smaller than the key) will go in and you can wiggle them back into the "parked" position.


The Abloy key is semi-circular in section, and the Chubb has little ears sticking out of it, so you can sometimes see, with a small torch, if the path is not open. The disks have no springs, they are returned to "park" by the action of turning the key to the Locked position. If someone has tried to pick it (they are almost certain to be unsuccessful) the disks will have been jumbled and the key will not go in. The absence of springs and pins or sliders means that certain methods of opening it without a correct key do not work.


I have had a Chubb AVA apart, and the Jag key looks like it might be a miniaturised version. I believe it is to the Chubb patent. The lack of ears means it is less prone to wear or damage. It has to be a very accurate fit.

 

Ok, so back in August when I had the ignition key issue, I finally got the key in after poking a small screwdriver in the ignition. But, ever since, the windshield washer does not work AND the headlight delay timer does not work. Everything else works fine.

Edit: The steering wheel lock does not work either. Does that make it mechanical vs electrical?

I don't know if I disturbed something inside the lock or if I messed up something under the steering column. I went back under the dash and double checked all the connections, which seem fine. I checked every single fuse in all 3 fuse boxes. (visually and checked continuity with a multi-meter last night).


I'm at a loss as what to do next. The oddest part is that the headlights are controlled by the left stalk and the wipers by the right stalk, so the issues seem unrelated, but the bother went bad at the same time.


I've searched the forum on and off for a month and can't find anything even close to these issues. Are these even related? I have not checked the washer pump or tried to jump it to see if works. I'm not sure where it's located. (I'd hate to have to rig a switch.)



I hope someone out there has an easy fix (LOL).
With winter approaching any help would be appreciated.

 

Start with Electrical Guide and look at circuits for both bad items, looking for what's in common - even (especially) wiring routes. After that, probably have to take it all apart

 

As you can see from my prior posts I am now able to use the car, but, these other issues persist. Now that the weather has turned here in Chicago the windshield washer has become a safety issue.


Could the problem be the tumblers, or "wafers" within the ignition lock cylinder? I rebuilt a Chrysler ignition cylinder once because it had worn out and it was pretty straight forward with a kit from eBay. Is this an option for Jaguar?


Any help on this would be appreciated. (Yes, I have searched the forum 1st)

 

I Can't think that the wafers in the lock could affect the electrical problems unless you have damaged the ignition electrical switch when forcing the wheels. That action appears to have damaged the steering wheel lock, so it may have damaged the switch. I would be replacing the ignition lock and switch assy if it were my car..I have never seen a wafer kit on e bay for these cars. The wafer assy may be able to be transferred to the new assy though. Brandon

 

I had this happen to me a couple summers ago. I eventually got the key to go in with LOTS of lubricant shot in the cylinder... Did you lube it and I mean excessively... that might free up whats sticking inside and causing the other issues.

Tom
2004 XJ8

 

What type of lube?

 

Graphite, perhaps. Stripping it down is a better idea I think. May well need replacing.

 

that kind of lock does not need any kind of lubrication, and it has no springs, wafers or pins. It does not work the same way as ordinary lock cylinders. It is the Chubb Ava system and I have known it work for scores of years without attention. It will not give way to the usual methods of picking a cylinder lock.


However, if it is dirty, it may need cleaning. If any of the parts go out of alignment (this is possible if the key is wiggled as it is taken out) then the key will not go back in (with no springs, the parts do not re-align, but you can probably insert a thin tool and re-align the slots so the key can enter).


I squirted WD40 through a straw into my boot lock, which was very stiff, probably with dirt and lack of use, and exercised the mechanism with the key, which probably rubbed off the dirt and let it drip out downwards through the keyhole.

 

I hesitate to lube the ignition lock with just any spray lubricant as a short is always a possibility or it could gum up the lock and make matters worse. It there a Jaguar recommended ignition lube?


Maybe I should first try compressed air?
From a can, like the kind used to clean a computer keyboard.


If no result, then maybe use electrical component cleaner, followed by the compressed air?


I was hoping someone had successfully solved this issue but maybe it's too rare.
I hope to try the air this week and may risk the electrical cleaner as well if I feel lucky.
Thanks for your help.

 

I was at work so as I recall I had to use what was available. I worked on it with the air compressor and wd-40. Took awhile to work at it, but eventually it freed up. The key would only go in about half way initally. Finally got it to go with the air and wd-40. (fine it's not a lubricant, but it's all I had)

Others have said take it out or disassemble. What further harm can be done? it doesn't work now.... might as well fill it with fluid and work the key in and out. Worked for me two years ago.... 205,000 miles on her now...

Tom