My 2006 Long body x350 was purchased with a known rear wheel bearing issue and a leaking power steering rack. Despite, these issues the low mileage jag sounded and drove smooth like a dream. So Purchased the car and replaced rear wheel bearing and power steering rack. Discovered the car couldn't hold alignment because the rear bushings and lateral links were bad and the front inner and outer tie rods. Had to order parts so drove it home and on a brief 20 minute drive Jag still drove nice, just slight alignment drift.
Brought the jag back to the shop 2 weeks later to Replace the rear links and entire lower control arms. Mechanic completed but we had to order all the front tie rods so I went to drive the jag home and it was a horrible ride. Constant up and down motion and very significant (almost car sick type motion), also frequent squeaking.
The car was purchased 6 weeks ago with the knowledge it was original air shocks - but the seller stated the car rode fine and would only loss air if the car wasn't driven for 5 or 6 days. That is exactly what did happen - after 6 days the jag was sitting lower with the sudden air suspension fault. But on start up the air seemed to lift up and the car rode fine.
After the suspension work the car sat overnight and was lower than ever - the suspension fault is now accompanied by a vehicle too low fault..

Would the vehicle too low fault cause that bouncing squeaking ride ?
I would think the car would just bottom out over bumps not bounce up and down constantly
Any chance it's the new control arms ? they were a generic ebay brand

why would the air fault change to too low just sitting over night in the mechanics garage ? any chance they mucked something up in the air system while working on the suspension ?

Thank for any thoughts

 

It's very unlikely the air spring units are damaged. What is more likely is displacement or damage to the height sensors. There is one each side, so that is the place I'd look first. You might also need to get the suspension recalibrated. This is a main dealer job, or at an independent shop specialising in Jaguar.

 

I agree, my first suspect would also be the height sensors, as well. I have replaced all of the suspension and had no damage to the air shocks.

And yes, a recalibration of the ride height is highly recommended in my view.

Regarding the parts you usd, I prefer to stick with quality brands, instead of generic brands.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks for the reply Fraser. Does anyone know how normal the sagging over 5-7 days is in these cars ? As stated before, When I purchased the car it would loose air if sitting for 5 -7 days, but rode nicely and the seller stated it had been doing that for months. Is that normal ? it was the same type scenario with his other car.
I have had other cars with bad struts and they never bounced up and down at low speeds like this , so I was even wondering if the too low warning was the culprit ?? Anyone ever drive with the too low warning ? is that what it does ??
My mechanic works on BMW Audi frequently - I wonder if they can do the recalibration ---- is there a TSB or instructions out there ? Are there OBD codes specific to the Calibration or other Air System errors ?

Thanks

 

About how much does the car sag over the 5-7 days? A bit of sagging is normal, but it would be interesting to know how much it sags.

Regarding the calibration, you will need SDD, that's the Jaguar specific software that will guide you through the process. I am not sure whether a Jaguar specific code reader can do the calibration.

Yes, there are DTCs, the OBD codes, as you call them, regarding air system errors. and yes, C1991 is about a calibration failure. I have attached the list of DTCs.

Unfortunately I am a bit stumped about the bouncing, but maybe the air struts just stay in the firm mode?

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks Thomas for the DTC (OBD) Codes.
Mechanic claimed last week that there were no OBD Codes - I asked him to run it again today. I will double check with my own Matco scanner when I get the car back.
The sag the first month I owned the car seemed pretty low - I don't think I could get two fingers between the wheel and the fender after 5 or 6 days of the car sitting. But for the last several days after the last visit to the mechanic the fenders touch the tires.
Also, now a few seconds after turning the ignition off, there is a very noticeable clunk or pop that comes from the trunk - the car seems to sag even more immediately after the noise ?????

Nearest Jag dealer from me is 2 hours, and I am guessing the calibration would be several hundred $$$ - unless the diagnosis is air leaks in the tubing or a single shock ---- it looks like I will be shopping for the Arnott conversion kit (and hoping it's not tariffed).

 

You're welcome.
I would say that the sagging of your car is excessive. Even if I don't use mine for 4 weeks, it maybe lowers by a few centimeters, but it definitely does not lower to to the blocks. After only 5-6 days, I barely notice a lowering.
In the trunk, underneath the spare tire, you have the main valve block and the air reservoir for the suspension system. A clunc or pop there could indicate a problem with one of these, I would assume the valve block.

Maybe this thread can help:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-body-253030/

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Update on Air Suspension:
nothing showed bubbling on leak test - all lines, shocks and trunk components bubble free for leak test.
Error code = C1893 (Based on Thomas's Guide is LH rear height sensor signal circuit fault)

Rochester NY Jag dealer says they can't do Calibration test - he doesn't think they have the special measuring tool and not sure his OBD scanner will communicate with any jags older than 2015
Still waiting for Buffalo Jag dealer to see if they can do it
Mechanic says he thinks the pump is tripping relay/fusses before it can inflate - he tried to hook up power directly to get the pump to inflate the car off the tires but it kicks relay/fusses

I emailed bagpiper Andy to see if he thinks his rebuild kit would help

If no one can do a calibration test even fixing the air pump won't probably do much ????

anyone have any slightly used arnott coil overs ?

 

Regarding the "the special measuring tool", this is the "special tool" what I use to take the height measurements


If you are careful, it is enough for the calibration...

The bigger problem,off course, is having SDD or a scanner capable of doing the calibration process. Maybe there is someone in the forum in your area who has SDD and could help you out?

Best regards,

Thomas

 

I agree with Thomas. You need the car hooked up to a working SDD system by someone who knows what they are doing.

Your mechanic can't get the codes because he does not have the right scanner.
I am surprised a dealer would even talk to you. We have been told JLR corporate policy is to deny any service work on cars 10 or more years old.
Be aware many of us have gone down this path and then converted to springs to get rid of ALL the problems.
.
.
.

 

My new to me 06 long base just kicked me in the soft spot. After putting over $1,700 into wheel bearings, control arms, tie rods, engine cradle, and a power steering rack (which has already failed). Suddenly in between the two visits to the mechanic the air suspensions has bottomed to the wheels, and the car is not drivable.

When purchased the air ride was great, if the car sat for 5-7 days the suspension would sag noticeably, but not to the wheels and not the too low dash fault.

after repair it no is on the wheels - garage can't find any leaks. They tried to power the air compressor manually with a power probe but at 12V it kicks a relay or a fuse and we can't get the car off the wheels.

The only DTC code is C1893 (left rear sensor).

Since the car was riding nicely 3 weeks ago - I am tempted to purchase rear sensors ($60) or even an ebay compressor ($200) but I hate to put $300-$400 into this and still not know if it will change anything ?

Questions/ Advice
Why would pump not inflate car if the only code/issue is a bad rear sensor ?
Why can't we inflate the system manually with the power probe to the compressor ? Also if there is not enough air to raise the car maybe there isn't enough air for the leak test.

The strutmaster conversion kit is now $1,200 - which is $600 cheaper than Arnott. ---- any reason not to go with Strutmaster ? the car is a commuter car all highway, cruise at 72mph
An old thread from 2018 said the guy took 16 hours installing Strutmasters and that bolts were too long and welded nuts had to be ground down to fit -is this still the case or did they get better at fitment ? I will be paying a garage to install - they had no book hours to estimate for me - anyone have any ideas labor hours for a professional shop ? A few years ago I had 4.5 hours into 4 quick struts on a chrysler - I am hoping it won't be too different

Thanks for any thoughts or advice

 

Hi, I have just been through the same. Car slammed and unable to pump up. Turned out to be front sensor hanging loose.
Few cable ties later and all is fine. Not sure why you can't power up the compressor though.

 

Thanks for the post PJ

did you need to do any calibration test or reset anything after disturbing the sensor ?

does your car sag at all if not driven for 4 or 5 days ?

I had to drive my car 2 miles to the garage on the too low fault. I expected it to drive normal and just bottom out on any bumps - Instead the car bounced up and down the whole way. I will try and upload a video that shows my headlights moving continuously as the car bounced - is that something anyone has experienced when their air system is faulty ?

 

Running the compressor will do nothing to raise the car if the valves to the struts are not open. The control module has to have power; just running the compressor by external power will simply run the compressor, and maybe pressurize the air tank.

The sensor code may well be what is disabling the system, but even so, it should not have dropped the car to the suspension limits (I don't think.)

As for strut replacement, I went to Arnott coilovers on my car shortly after buying it, because I had severe water intrusion into the system. It took me a single afternoon to change the struts myself in the driveway, and of course, with coilovers there's no calibration required afterward, and the Arnott kit comes with the module to kill the CATS error that happens when replacement struts don't have the CATS connectors. My first step was a compressor rebuild, but found the dryer chamber in the compressor to actually be a water tank. These system have no method to remove water once it's in, and everything starts rusting. I threw it away and went to steel springs and the car is absolutely wonderful ever since. No waiting for it to raise, and I can count on hundreds of reliable miles without having to stop and reset a sagging suspension. (Once the controller throws a code, it gives up all operations on the suspension, and the only reset is to stop and shut the car off, which gets you going until it throws another code, which in my case was as little as fifteen minutes.)

 

No re-calibration needed, and yes, it did drop afterwards but a quick spay with soapy water on all
the air hoses on the top of struts soon found a small leak on both connectors on front struts.

 

I was thinking of putting a few hundred into rear sensors and compressor BUT as wfooshee says if they were leak testing it with mucked up valves or Air control module - maybe the reason there are no bubbles showing leaks is that there is no air in the actual system.

I think at this point it might be better to switch to coilovers - Now just wondering brand ---- I have always heard of Arnott, But they are ranging from $1,600 to $2,000.
Strutmaster is coming in at $1,200 for a savings of $400+ for what used to be more expensive than Arnott.

In the back of my mind I am also kicking around the Idea of the $500 Unity Automotive Kit - I am sure it's cheap Chinese stuff, probably bad after 15,000 miles - but this is a summer driver for me so that might give me 2 or 3 years. No one on this forum has commented on Unity or any off brand kits. The forums seem pretty split on Arnott vs Strutmaster, maybe slight edge to Arnott

 

I am surprised DTC only shows a rear sensor code. Has anyone else had a muffed up Air system that only shows one little code instead of the 5 things that are really wrong with it ?

 

Unless your using the factory SDD system you have no idea what the air suspension is doing. Your reader just can't see that deep into the car.
What code reader are you using?
Can you get the car hooked up to a working SDD?

I fought this for a good long while working on a friends 2006 XJ and my best advice to reread what wfooshee posted. He helped me thru the different steps and yes I rebuilt the compressor. I replaced various parts but kept running into those dang "implausibility" errors which don't tell you anything EXCEPT the system is not working right and something is wrong.

I gave up when the system was working perfectly (or so I thought!) then driving the car to my friends house to deliver the car. Yep air suspension fault light came on during the drive over. Again went thru everything and then followed whooshee's advice and went with the steel springs from Arnott.

Best thing every done to that XJ. Not really any problems after that. Everything just worked as designed.
.
.
.

 

Something to keep in mind is that he air system had a design lifetime of 10, maybe fifteen years, and is well beyond that now. My biggest issue with the air suspension is that it does not have a separately serviceable dryer, and has NO way to remove water once it gets past the compressor. The desiccant chamber in the compressor is only serviceable by removing and disassembling the compressor, and you still have whatever water in the system that has entered the system. I will never have another car with air suspension.

 

I think most professional shops in the US run either $12,000 Snap-on or Matco scanners, many of them can run most modules on the car remotely, even program keys. I was just under the assumption that if a $300icarsoft OBD can read all jaguar codes that the big Snap-on and Matcos should ???? Maybe not. I understand the concept of deep codes, but it seems odd that it would read one suspension code but not others.

I am making the call tomorrow to order coilovers and get on the schedule for the conversion. Big decision now is Arnott vs Strutmaster ???? a few days ago the difference was $1,200 vs $1,900 with Strutmaster being cheaper. But I just saw someone listing the Arnotts at $1,600 (unless it's bait and switch --- I see that a lot with google searches for jag parts).