somewhere on here i have seen an XJR spraying NOS . making 580WHP .
a 450bhp jag is in your rear view mirror soon . looking forward to seeing these results .

 

i assume your spraying through the schradar valve ? or are you using fuel pressure reference To activate nos ?
390whp without nos . there is 456.3 BHP your the winner here .

 

I use the rail to get fuel and spray through the intake right above the throttle body. An s type r guy gave me that tip. The kit itself was 1000 usd, with all the safety features and accessories. Fuel pressure cut off switch is a must.

And thanks man, 390 wheel was with the intercooler ice tank. Great mod, really adds power, but who carries ice on them all the time? Cooler charge air caused denser air and added more timing. Technically for nitrous you're supposed to retard timing a bit to keep from blowing up. So I don't ever run ice if I'm planning on spraying.

Without the ice, the car made 369rwhp. I have a 100 shot set up but it adds a bit more than 100 to the wheels. Constantly have to run a race fuel blend with 93. That plus 50 bucks a bottle fill gets expensive. Jag sleeps in the garage most of the time since the nitrous upgrade unfortunately.

 

I am going to go ahead and stick with the 75 horse power nozzle. That way the nitrous bottle will last many many runs. Just have to go with two stages colder plug and the timing should not be an issue with 75 shot. Jazzy I'd like to see how you mounted it and installed it if you get a chance the post some pics. I love that Nitrous Express maximizer you can adjust how fast and nitrous comes on to control wheel spin

 

hmmmmmm

You Tube

 

Don't think 450 crank up should be an issue with proper tune and with stock m112 supercharger. I'm over 500 on my xkr 4.2

 

Yes but that with twin MAF and twin intakes .
and a far better PCM . And trans tune also
not really apples and apples comparison .

 

This is all I have on my current phone. I'll snap a few more later on.

 

Thanks for the pics! Did you have to pull the intake off to connect it?

 

Yes, you will need to drill into the intake to position your spray nozzle.

 

I would have to downgrade my Jaguar F-Pace (SVR) 100hp to get 450hp.... lol
Actually, I wish you all the best in your quest for power. There's always room for more power!

 

Jazzy, Why not install nozzle in the intake tube like most other cars? The instructions state the nozzle should be 6 to 18 inches away...Zex tech support says the intake tube is the ONLY location to install...Yours may be different being a T/S

 

2019-08-15 09:37
Connected.
Johnathan Martin connected.
Johnathan Martin: Hi Alan. How can I help you?
2019-08-15 09:41
alan beaupre: Hi, I am installing a 82023 Zex on a 04 supercharged Jaguar XJR...A few other folks are drilling just above the throttle body which is in the rear of the S/C and say it must be done this way...
alan beaupre: Why wouldn't you mount it in the intake tube like other cars?
2019-08-15 09:42
Johnathan Martin: We recommend in the intake tube before the throttle body. So I have no idea why other people say do it that way.
2019-08-15 09:45
alan beaupre: The throttle body is at the rear of the S/C about 15 inches from where I can install in the tube.
2019-08-15 09:46
Johnathan Martin: That is fine. The instructions clearly state Optimum nozzle placement is 6" to 18" from the throttle body.
alan beaupre: Well that will sure make it easier.
2019-08-15 09:50
alan beaupre: here is a link look at post 277 that's right where the TB is https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...168474/page14/
Johnathan Martin: I don't care what other people post or recommend. That is not our recommendation.
2019-08-15 09:54
alan beaupre: Great you should know best! Thanks! Last question can I use a Nitrous Express Maximizer EZ with the Zex system?
2019-08-15 09:55
Johnathan Martin: Our system will not work with a progressive controller.
alan beaupre: No problem Thanks for your help!
2019-08-15 09:57
Johnathan Martin: Have a good day.
2019-08-15 09:59
alan beaupre disconnected.
Disconnected by Client.
Chat started: 2019-08-15 09:37:41
Chat ended: 2019-08-15 09:59:07
Total time: 0:21:26
Ending session.

 

I have the Eaton M112, just ported and pullied. Placement was determined through trial and error from the S-type R guy that gave me all the tips. He had it on the j pipe intake originally, and said the car actually felt slower. Once they moved it up closer to the TB (still on the intake, just on the end of the upper pipe instead of the J pipe, and really its close to 4" or so from the TB), pulls much harder. The professionals at the shop over here that installed it highly recommended it in the position its in. They based that off of previous supercharged nitrous installs.

Remember it still has plenty of distance to travel through: first the TB, then the plenum, next the supercharger, then intercoolers, then heads and valves before making it into the combustion chamber.

Works for me, pulled pretty hard on a 2018 Challenger 392 from a roll.

Give it a try, worst case you'll have to plug some holes. It'll take some fine tuning with the nozzle positioning and also spray jets. They will supply you with a chart that shows what fuel jet to run with what nitrous jet, it close but i had to change it up twice before getting it dialed in.

 

Thanks Jazzy, I am going to go with the intake tube method...It is just easier...I am sure it will still work well...Nozzle and controller technology has changed a lot in the last few years which may be why they recommend the intake tube these days!

 

Match his set up i tried each and every other way after the maf and it will cause issues best place is right above the throttle body i have sprayed alot of bottles through my str and have no problems as long as you purge i jumped it up to 125shot and when it cools down it's going on the dyno to see where im at

 

I need some input from you nitrous guys. I did a lot more digging and found out it's very difficult to keep your bottle pressure at around 900 to 950 PSI. If you leave your car out during the day you need to take the bottle out cuz the pressures could build up on a hot day, I did not know this before I bought the system and if the pressure is too low on a cold day and use a bottle blanket you got to wait for it to warm up and then you have to go in the back to check to see what your PSI is on your bottle which is a pain. And once the bottle gets below 5 lbs the shots are not as powerful as the first few were before. Obviously I should have done more research I thought I'd done a lot but the companies do not tell you all this stuff these are really meant more for racing under perfect conditions not just cruising around and kick in the bottle on and going because you don't know what pressure going to be at if your bottles going to be in the trunk or not can't leave it out can't leave it in got to be in the shade and so forth so I think I'm returning it and ripping it out

 

It's not that bad, manageable. I was originally going to buy just the $400 kit too but ended up getting the accessories, electric bottle warmer, and purge kit. My bottle as you saw is in the compartment under the trunk where the battery is hidden. Usually doesn't get terribly hot in there, and I'm in Florida where it's always hot. Regardless, I never leave the valve open when I park the car. So I manually open and close the valve whenever I'm taking the jag out if I'm planning on spraying. I'll take a look at the gauge when I go to open the valve, and if the pressure is high, I'll purge a bit out to lower it. If it's low, I'll switch the bottle warmer on for a while. I now have a gauge thats wired to a sensor on the bottle which sends the pressure reading. The gauge will be mounted on the driver's A pillar. That way I can monitor pressure from the cabin while driving.

I believe Bottlefed has several more accessories than I do, including a remote opener which is great because you don't even have to go in the trunk to open the valve at that point.

Don't give up on it. Just might need to spend a bit more $$ on the project. Just consider the extra investment is for your safety and your Jag's engine safety.

 

This is nothing new. Every nitrous system acts this way. My first system back in 1989 had no blanket. Worked great first few times eventually would peter out. It was a great "cheap" mod but it costs money to refill and unless you keep pressure stabilized it will always vary. Its good for racing. But for everyday performance it gets rather expensive rather fast. ID of just gone meth injection. I use window washer fluid for that. Cheap and effective. Not nitrous effective but good enough for me

 

I live in Arizona temps do get really high it was 119 degress out here today I used to daily drive my str with nitrous and have had the bottle pressure at high temps to the point where it wouldn't even purge so the positive of that is that if the bottle pressure is to high you'll know it when you try to purge i have a remote bottle opener a nx express window switch purge kit with fuel pressure safety switch and bottle pressure sensor with a bottle heater now i mainly use it at night or take it out briefly so it doesn't really effect my setup the nitrous bottles now have a burst disk if pressure gets to high it will burst and safely empty your bottle which beats blowing up the bottle burst disk cost a dollar i have never had a bottle or disk burst and ive had my car in 119 degree weather all day the bottle heater to some people state its a waste of money ive had 5 nitrous setups including my car having a bottle heater with a bottle pressure sensor keeps your bottle pressure no matter what the temperature outside is its automatic if you turn on your heater it will not turn on due to the the relay cutting off power but will kick on if pressure falls below 950psi which if you take it out for some night runs you will need it and it heats the bottle up pretty fast to make sure you always have the pressure needed to run properly my first two nitrous set ups i had no bottle heater and after 5lbs of nitrous used the pressure would drop to much and it would throw to much fuel 3rd set up went with a 15lb bottle that was with a bottle heater on with a 200shot 5.0 i could go down until it 2lbs were left thanks to the heater then i got a x type 3.0 manual transmission and put a 75shot with a 10lb bottle with just the genx2 kit then put a 100 shot and i broke the transfer case so i took my previous experience and thought i knew it all and decided to put one on my str i had serious problems it made it slower on just a 75 shot i kept playing with it got it running right on 75 shot and i kept having to much fuel getting dumped in if i sprayed off the line but not from a roll so i took it to jba speed shop to get help met a nitrous guru named lee and they fine tuned everything explained to me why i needed a window switch why i needed a heater he went above and beyond the window switch allows you to set it up to spray when you want and cut off when you want as we all know the supercharged 4.2str is sensitive and hard to tune so they fine tuned the fuel side of the nitrous system because it was running rich they cleaned up my setup
And made me a custom switch box for the str where the cup holders used to be i didn't have any issues on any other car i had nitrous on always gapped the sparkplugs at least one stage colder and pull timing but my str was alot of trial and error even the shop said this was one of the hardest set ups they had done but they really took there time and did it right other cars are very forgiving easy to tune 4.2str dont have a plug and play tuner or have any shops that i know that can tune it especially for nitrous so the nitrous system needs to be tuned on the car if you guys want i can give you guys more information or part numbers my 03 str with 135000miles has nx express proton kit 10lb bottle kn air filter cats deleted and 44 series flowmaster nitrous express has pretty good customer service and NGX customer service is really helpful and will give you your sparkplug heat range needed to handle for your nitrous set up or for any other mods they are very helpful I truly love nitrous and believe its a great mod to the 4.2 super charged engine i love it but nitrous is not for everyone i have sprayed alot of bottles thru my str and have had minor hiccups mainly user error i was racing a 63 amg forgot to purge and ended up spraying air and fuel instead of nitrous and fuel no damage done just got rich codes put fuel cleaner and it was back to normal just make sure you do your own research and take your time and i highly recommend the window switch purge and bottle heater and fuel pressure safety these are not cheap parts but it made my setup work reliable and safely