Restricted performance light after changing fuel pressure regulator
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From: Haleiwa, HI & Beverly Hills, CA
Restricted performance light after changing fuel pressure regulator
Hey Everyone,
Just replaced the fuel pressure regulator after finding out that it was leaking. Eventually got so bad that I could smell the fuel through the AC when coming to a stop.
Put a new fuel pressure regulator in and seems to have fixed the fuel smell but I am now getting a "Restricted performance" light. Trying to find my code reader as the engine light is on as well. Will post the codes once I have it but has anyone had this happen before/know what I should be looking for?
Car seems to be running fine but I did notice an escaping air type sound on the passenger side engine bay (USA car) but can't find out where it is coming from as all of the vacuum lines seem to be okay. Would a vacuum line spitting air out even cause the restricted performance light or is that another issue and the restricted performance has something to do with the re-installing of the fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator?
Any advice/suggestions greatly appreciated!
Mahalo
Just replaced the fuel pressure regulator after finding out that it was leaking. Eventually got so bad that I could smell the fuel through the AC when coming to a stop.
Put a new fuel pressure regulator in and seems to have fixed the fuel smell but I am now getting a "Restricted performance" light. Trying to find my code reader as the engine light is on as well. Will post the codes once I have it but has anyone had this happen before/know what I should be looking for?
Car seems to be running fine but I did notice an escaping air type sound on the passenger side engine bay (USA car) but can't find out where it is coming from as all of the vacuum lines seem to be okay. Would a vacuum line spitting air out even cause the restricted performance light or is that another issue and the restricted performance has something to do with the re-installing of the fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator?
Any advice/suggestions greatly appreciated!
Mahalo
Last edited by hawaiianjag; Dec 2, 2015 at 05:37 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 283
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From: Essex
Are you sure you replaced the vacum line/elbow to the regulator correctly?
Yes a vacum leak will cause RP light.
use a stethescope or piece of tube to your ear to trace where hiss is from.
The rubber elbow could be split also.
Too much of a coincidence that its happened since replacing fuel reg!!
Yes a vacum leak will cause RP light.
use a stethescope or piece of tube to your ear to trace where hiss is from.
The rubber elbow could be split also.
Too much of a coincidence that its happened since replacing fuel reg!!
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 509
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From: Haleiwa, HI & Beverly Hills, CA
Thanks JoeSoap,
Read the codes and got P0333(knock sensor bank2) and P1111(intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit bank 1) then a second time after clearing codes got P1000 and P0333. Would those codes come up from a vacuum leak or could my leaking coolant reservoir which I am about to replace have dripped on the sensor rendering it useless?
I noticed the hissing sound was coming from either the vacuum hose that leads to a port at the top of the engine then off to something that appears to be some sort of breather valve?(pic included, looks like a black flying saucer) hoping someone can identify it for me. Definitely seems to be where the hiss is coming from, I assume there should be no air escaping noise from that correct?
Tried replacing o-rings on it but still getting a hiss....
Read the codes and got P0333(knock sensor bank2) and P1111(intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit bank 1) then a second time after clearing codes got P1000 and P0333. Would those codes come up from a vacuum leak or could my leaking coolant reservoir which I am about to replace have dripped on the sensor rendering it useless?
I noticed the hissing sound was coming from either the vacuum hose that leads to a port at the top of the engine then off to something that appears to be some sort of breather valve?(pic included, looks like a black flying saucer) hoping someone can identify it for me. Definitely seems to be where the hiss is coming from, I assume there should be no air escaping noise from that correct?
Tried replacing o-rings on it but still getting a hiss....
Last edited by hawaiianjag; Dec 4, 2015 at 03:56 AM.
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 505
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Thanks JoeSoap,
Read the codes and got P0333(knock sensor bank2) and P1111(intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit bank 1) then a second time after clearing codes got P1000 and P0333. Would those codes come up from a vacuum leak or could my leaking coolant reservoir which I am about to replace have dripped on the sensor rendering it useless?
I noticed the hissing sound was coming from either the vacuum hose that leads to a port at the top of the engine then off to something that appears to be some sort of breather valve?(pic included, looks like a black flying saucer) hoping someone can identify it for me. Definitely seems to be where the hiss is coming from, I assume there should be no air escaping noise from that correct?
Tried replacing o-rings on it but still getting a hiss....
Read the codes and got P0333(knock sensor bank2) and P1111(intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit bank 1) then a second time after clearing codes got P1000 and P0333. Would those codes come up from a vacuum leak or could my leaking coolant reservoir which I am about to replace have dripped on the sensor rendering it useless?
I noticed the hissing sound was coming from either the vacuum hose that leads to a port at the top of the engine then off to something that appears to be some sort of breather valve?(pic included, looks like a black flying saucer) hoping someone can identify it for me. Definitely seems to be where the hiss is coming from, I assume there should be no air escaping noise from that correct?
Tried replacing o-rings on it but still getting a hiss....
P0333 is for your knock sensor. Since you were just working aroud there, check the connection to both knock sensors. There are 2 small harnesses coming out from under the front of intake on each side and they connect to the main engine harness near the fuel rail (there's a 3rd one for the ECT sensor as well).
If the sensor itself is bad you will have to pull the intake manifold, but start with the connectors. Since you also have a code for the VVT, it definitely sounds electrical, as that is nearby as well. Check all your connections.
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