I have got a new problem with the drivers window, as it goes down, it squeaks rythmically and it also squeaks, but not as loud, when going up. This seems to be getting worse quickly. Anybody ever heard of this?

 

can you take a vid with some sound to help with the guessing games?

 

yeah, a friend of mine calls it "screaking". Wax both side of the window glass with a polymer wax. This usually stops it.

 

there are "rub" blocks felt covered rubber, they wear out and then start squeeking. You can try the cheap stuff first and see how long it last. But just so you know in the end what may need to be done

 

sometimes the noise is from the regulators tracks,try lubing them up 1st

 

I just did my driver window today. This is my second x350 and both hade the same window "screaking". I had to take the door panel off and greese the tracks and wd40 the cables. works great now!!! This is the second time i did this once on both cars.
I think they will all do it.
Brian.

 

2004xjr,

How did you go about removing the door panel? I have the same problem as you and waxing my window didn't help much.

Thank You,

Mat

 

Mat,
Taking the door panel off is not to bad. I will do my best to write it out for you.
#1-One screw/clip on bottom of door (take out screw and clip it goes in to.
#2-Small screw behind a plug at the chrome pull. (Be careful getting the plug out)
#3-Two screws under the door pull. (where you pull to close the door)
Also there are two small screws under the pwr. wondow buttons. No need to
take out.
#4-The inner panel should pull straight out. (just on with clips) Careful with the cable to the chrome opener. And wires. Undo cable and wire harnes.
#5-There is a bunch of T10 bolts holding the inner panel to the door. Undo all of them. One is under a plug at bottom right.
#6-The fun part-- I use white spray greese and wd40. With window up greese both tracks. and wd40 the cables. Make sure to do both sides of the tracks.
I hook the wires back up and run the glass up and down spraying greese and wd40 on tracks and cable. (Do it good. Only want to do this once)
Note: lay old towl on floor. So not to damage door panel when hooking up wires to run window up and down.
#7-Put back every thing. Taking care with cable to chrome pull.
Sounds bad but not bad at all.
Good Luck, Brian.

 

Brian,

Thank You for the instructions it worked out perfectly and now my window is squeak free!

Mat

 

Brian
Half a decade later and your anti screaking remedy still works.
Thanks
Pete

 

Pete,
Happy it worked for you. Like you said I did it five years ago and still works fine. Just drove to GA from PA and back last week with car. All good.
Brian.

 

For anyone experiencing this issue I have a couple of updates and specific tips from recent experience.

If you're reading the thread and experiencing a similar issue note the following. While forum member Brian's comment "I think they will all do that" is not precisely true, (I had an 06 XJ8-L for 5 years and put 100k miles and the drivers window never made a peep, yet my 07 VDP with low mileage has it bad) I believe it is more a function of where the car lived and some conditions apply.


When you're inside the door lubricating the tracks is always a good idea. (not the window guides with rubber gaskets, but the actual tracks that the window moves along with nylon/plastic slides) the cables benefit from an appropriate cable lube, such as you would use on a bike cable. I used white lithium spray, but there are dedicated cable lube that makes sense when you consider the time and effort put into resolving this issue. Here are a couple:


Basically any lube that is a gel or a paced that will stick and stay on the cable versus dripping out one side or the other.

The most important bit of info I can pass along is that I discovered specifically what does the squeaking. As I lubricated the tracks, the guides, and the cables I did not hear any Improvement.

I observed that there are four nylon/plastic pulleys each about 1.2734" across, approximately. That's as close as I can get by eye. The reason that the squeaking is rhythmic is those wheels are squeaking on their center bearings/axle. And the reason this car has the issue and my other did not is that this spent 10 + years in Ohio, and I have learned why they call it the Rust Belt. The car is in fantastic shape, and some idiot thought it was a good idea to rust proof an aluminum car. The idea what have had value if they had rust proofed things that actually would benefit from it. Instead they sprayed that waxy goop on the fenders where they bolt to the monocoque under the hood and they sprayed under the doors where are the drain holes are supposed to be clear. Cause more problems then it helped. Every 10 mm bolt holding the plastic underbody panels are permanently rusted on I need to be drilled and tapped. I have done about a dozen of them so far. Never again well I buy a car from that area of the country. Cars from the dry arid desert areas tend to have plastic and rubber that is dry or brittle but it sure beats the rest with insomnia that Neil Young tells us about.

So make sure to hit the centers of those nylon rollers. The moment I did I had 100% silence. You can use whatever you think will last. I put some faith in this stuff:


Since I have had a good experience with it under the car even when it gets wet and weathered it appears to leave a film coating that lasts 5-6 months under tough conditions. Inside the door? Should last a good long while.

Here are the pulley/roller locations. The cable(s) hide behind the guides. Try to put lube into the axle/bearing as best you can. Then put a dab on the metal center portion of the pulley. This is where corrosion and rust are an issue. The pulleys are the reason that the squeaking is rhythmic. There is a single Bolt with a Torx head that holds each pulley to help you locate them.



Good luck and made the squeaking not be with you.

 

Blairware. regarding the lubricant you used to resolve this issue, can you clarify what it was. Looks like the name went missing. Thanks to all for all this great info, I have the same problem on my new (to me) 2005 XJ8L.

"So make sure to hit the centers of those nylon rollers. The moment I did I had 100% silence. You can use whatever you think will last. I put some faith in this stuff:"


-Mike

 

Sure thing. The stuff I am referencing is "Fluid Film" - it's a lanolin based anti corrosion spray. As I say, once applied it will NOT evaporate like WD40, which is great stuff, but fir this purpose a but thin. Dry lubes would also be ideal, but I stick with things that have proven their value.




The door panels are incredibly tough to unclip, so dont feel like your gonna break them. Best if you have a wide pry tool or panel tool and start from the bottom. Dont forget to take out the middle clip under the door. Theres 2 on the back doors for LWB models. I found this out after almost tearing the panel in half, knowing they take some oomph to pull!

Good luck, and enjoy your silence as a reward for the effort!

 

who wants a rusty jag... did mine like i said. now nine years and sill great.. B.

 

Thanks! Here it is on Amazon, I will give it a try:

 

Spray some wd-40 where door hinges are, I did it because door wasn't closing easily afterwards noticed window stop squeaking. Some of it must've got up in the window tracks