hello all ....2008 xj L main key locked in trunk ....car in valet mode ! locksmith "entry only" KEY (no transponder or remote fob) will not open trunk lid.... need remote fob trunk button to overcome vallet.. can i unlatch it with a screw driver thru a drilled hole behind license plate ...approx 4" up from bumper and slightly left of center? it is stranded in a parking lot 4 days.... worried sick...no trans ponder/remote key fobs avail soon. thanks
I am scared of "valet mode". Don't touch it! I am also averse to drilling holes in my car.
Normally, any suitable key can mechanically open the trunk via the keyhole to the right of the trunk-opening button. Since this is never used, it might be "stiff". I tried it recently just to allay my fears, it was stiff and took quite a bit of jiggling.
If you want a horror story, last time I locked my keys in the trunk was at a supermarket. Open the trunk, throw the goods in, slam. Where's my keys?
The goods in the trunk was...icecream.
I can't guess if drilling in will work or not, but what I did when I locked the main key and fob in... I gained access to my trunk through the stereo speakers in the rear deck. Mine was driveable with the Valet key, so I had the luxury of working at home.
I ended up disassembling the entire rear seat area. It surprised me to learn how much of our cars are held together with plastic clips, I only needed a screwdriver to remove the speakers themselves.
But they have to go in order as they overlap each other:
Remove Seat Bottom; four latches under front edge, very hard to get your hand in between cushion and floor.
Remove Seat Back; pull nylon straps you'll see at the bottom, pull seat back from top edge to free.
Remove Roof inside trim, snap/clipped in place, weatherstrip overlaps forward edge.
Remove Rear deck cover (with sunshade in my case) don't recall how it fastens.
Remove Speakers; 4 screws each, I believe they are philips-head, and fish around for your keys...
Also I disconnected the battery once I got the trunk open, since what scares me is all those airbags...
I had pictures lined up, but somehow lost them... I'm not much good with computers but I hope this helps you some anyway.
trunk drilling did not work on 2008 xj ....no lock linkage avail behind tag up(from bumper) 130 mm x 13mm left offset .... fascia is plastic ,inner is thin sheet! on to programing a new fob so the trunk unlock button will take it out of valet mode.... of course the master key in the trunk will probably have to be reprogramed...yes???
Xalty, You're smarter than the two "pro" moblle locksmiths I called when I was locked out. All they had to do was open trunk, it seemed such a basic task... luckily neither one tried to charge me for their failure.
They were laughing at me, I just know it...
I can't guess if drilling in will work or not, but what I did when I locked the main key and fob in... I gained access to my trunk through the stereo speakers in the rear deck. Mine was driveable with the Valet key, so I had the luxury of working at home.
I ended up disassembling the entire rear seat area. It surprised me to learn how much of our cars are held together with plastic clips, I only needed a screwdriver to remove the speakers themselves.
But they have to go in order as they overlap each other:
Remove Seat Bottom; four latches under front edge, very hard to get your hand in between cushion and floor.
Remove Seat Back; pull nylon straps you'll see at the bottom, pull seat back from top edge to free.
Remove Roof inside trim, snap/clipped in place, weatherstrip overlaps forward edge.
Remove Rear deck cover (with sunshade in my case) don't recall how it fastens.
Remove Speakers; 4 screws each, I believe they are philips-head, and fish around for your keys...
Also I disconnected the battery once I got the trunk open, since what scares me is all those airbags...
I had pictures lined up, but somehow lost them... I'm not much good with computers but I hope this helps you some anyway.
After replacing my lock mechanism in the trunk and having read all the posts I could find about the opening of the trunk without a key, I figure if I need to access the inside, I would drill a ole and try to hook the emergency release. Drilling from inside the car and behind the back seat could be easily repaired to act as a "ski hatch" plus it would be easier to pull the release. The hole from the inside could be larger than one behind the license plate.
After replacing my lock mechanism in the trunk and having read all the posts I could find about the opening of the trunk without a key, I figure if I need to access the inside, I would drill a ole and try to hook the emergency release. Drilling from inside the car and behind the back seat could be easily repaired to act as a "ski hatch" plus it would be easier to pull the release. The hole from the inside could be larger than one behind the license plate.
after mrkt. jag keys... the JMA f o-6p entry only ,locksmith supplied key....($47.00) is actually a Valet length ford key TOO SHORT .... to open trunk(chk. Xalty) ...but the fobik standard aftermrkt key($167.00) seems to be okay....but is not yet programed because of lack of confidence in locksmith to then recover my original key that we got out of the trunk. Does anyone know of difficulty in recovering an OEM jag 2008 xl key after adding a locksmith supplied aftermkt. key ??
after mrkt. jag keys... the JMA f o-6p entry only ,locksmith supplied key....($47.00) is actually a Valet length ford key TOO SHORT .... to open trunk(chk. Xalty) ...but the fobik standard aftermrkt key($167.00) seems to be okay....but is not yet programed because of lack of confidence in locksmith to then recover my original key that we got out of the trunk. Does anyone know of difficulty in recovering an OEM jag 2008 xl key after adding a locksmith supplied aftermkt. key ??
is the normal length key cut? it should open mechanically. programming the key can be done cheaply if anyone has IDS/SDD locally. i would do it for free but you’re 300 miles away
I have been dealing with the bench and the back yesterday. There is some precut sound insulation to be pulled down or out and then comes a riveted aluminum plate that could easely be drilled out on the rivets from the inside . I am having another look in the boot behind the carpet if that is actually an practical option
XJ8: If you look in the back seat, there is a pull-down arm there. It is also a support path for long snow skis.... a path to the trunk! With a flashlight and a long grabber from harbor freight, you will be able to fetch it with some misery and pain... But no hole in the trunk.
Also, thee IS a keyhole back there! Look above the license plate, below the 'ledge' and voila--- a key socket. However, it won't work with the Valet key.. I have have three Jag keys for mine, 2 regular, one valet. The are beyond precious. Finally, using your ID and car numbers, Jaguar will cut you a new key for some hundreds of dollars. But of course, if you own a JAG-U-AR, you are rich and money doesn't count until it has at least 3 zeros, right? Just like me, a retired school teacher..
I ordered a key on eBay that is very much like the factory key for less than $25.00. I then called around and found a locksmith fairly close to where I live and he was able to cut a new key for under $40.00 (in 2018). He made a practice key that has a place for the transponder if I obtain one. It will only lock the doors. Even with the car unlocked it will not turn the trunk lock. That is how the locksmith confirmed his cut was correct before he made the final one. I now have 2 keys programmed for all functions and a new one that will start the car. I just need to follow the procedure on the forum to program it for all functions with the other 2 keys. The locksmith did not have the ability to program. Still I now have an extra key for less than $75.00 and did not have to contact the dealer.
I also only pay attention to money matters with 3 zeros also. However 2 of them are after the decimal.
