Or anyone who knows more than I do.
Took compressor out to find air issue. Think I am making progress. Seal, cylinder, air outlet all checked fine.
Tried blowing through cylinder and could not. There is a check valve, and it must require more pressure than I got with lungs.
Took apart and it is all rusted. The spring looks terrible. Rust and corrosion everywhere.
The outlet side has me concerned. There is a plastic nipple in the center, surrounding by a metal disc with holes. The material under the disc looks rust colored. Blew on nipple and air came back around disc. Through the small holes maybe.
There is a plastic sleeve around the disc. Does this move? The plastic nipple and steel disc is not moving with light force.
I wonder is rust has plugged something up.

 

It does not take much to know more than me on these compressors. Took apart further and found this disc retains the air dryer beads. After vacuuming them up, they were saturated with water. Dried in the oven for 30 minutes. Color changed from dark brown to light beige.
I do not know why the dryer was full of water. Assume the 100% humidity in Houston may contribute.
Would having the dryer full off water cause issues with pumping air to the control valve in the trunk.
nk?
I hope going back together will fix my problems with extended compressor run time and code C2302.
The water must have been in there a lot time. Explains the rusted spring.

 

Hi Panelhead,

That rust is very common, though yours is even worse than mine was. Somewhere in the photos at the links below I show how the check valve comes apart and how I cleaned up the rust and sprayed the spring with Rustoleum. The one additional thing I would do now that I was afraid to do then would be to remove the exhaust valve and clean the rust off of its internal components, and possibly do the same to the pressure relief valve.

Another thing I learned that is to fully reactivate the molecular sieve desiccant beads requires baking them at 400-600F for 15 hours in a nitrogen or argon atmosphere, alternated with high vacuum, so there's no way we can fully reactivate them at home, and there is no way they come even close to being fully reactivated by being backflushed with dried air via the exhaust valve. But it might be worth baking them at 500+F overnight before you put everything back together.

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Cheers,

Don