Was leaving town for 3 months and disconnected battery to prevent discharging. When I returned and reconnected battery it would not start. Starter runs but appears to not be getting any gas to the engine. Hopefully something simple. Ideas?
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I rarely drive the car. It belonged to my now deceased mother. It is parked in her garage. Before I left I did start it and and there were no issues. I do not recall pressing the pedal to the floor, but maybe I did. That was 3 - 4 months ago. When I initially tried to start it I did not press the pedal as usual, but as it was not getting any gas I did press the pedal all the way to the floor.
Thank you for the information. I will evaluate the relay. When I initially tried to start it I did not really press the pedal. When I got no response and it appeared the engine was not getting any gas I did pump the pedal a few times.
While you are checking the fuel pump relay there is another one up front that powers the fuel injectors
The large ECU controlled relay ( right # 5 ) can be swapped with a headlight or A / C clutch relay of the same part #
A relay can click telling you it has the correct command but the power contacts can be bad ( pitted or burnt )
Swap the relay in the right engine fuse box with the one from the left engine fuse box . this right relay powers the fuse for 1/2 of the ECU . This is the ECU's first power
cycle the iginition switch 5 times before starting as this better primes the fuel lines if they are not holding the fuel pressure from the last time driven . Give about 5 seconds between each key rotation with the each 5 seconds being in the on position
Finally bring the key back to the off position with your foot off the pedal and then start , as the car should start with your foot off the pedal , pumping does nothing unless it is a old carberated car
Had the opportunity yesterday to check out the suggestions.
When turning the ignition switch the fuel pump relay clicks immediately, then another definite click a moment later. Can’t say I felt a 3rd click after the 2nd or between the 1st and 2nd.
The fuel injectors relay also clicks. I was unable to easily remove this relay to swap with another because of the mounting. Didn’t want to force for fear of breaking. Suggestions on how to remove?
I remove the battery and placed on a charger but it did read 12V. Should I remove the ECU, unplug and then reinstall? Would this reset it?
Where you able to hear the fuel pump run with the clicking of the fuel pump relay in the trunk ?
Where the sockets in the connector at the fuel pump itself not burnt or damaged ?
The large relays up front are sealed with a O - ring and if you flip them upside down you can soak them with some penetrating oil
Be careful to not reinstall the battery in backwards
Unplugging the ECU protects it from errors in onnectocr rematiing but does not reset the ECU
Swapped the small relays in the corners of the left and right engine fuse box ?
You can swap the small fuel pump relay ( my have burnt power contacts inside ) with the one towards the center of the car with the same part # ( Acc relay )
Editing
In a minute we will get into the big picture and more detail of how the engine responds in the start sequence
The large relays up front remove from mounting by pushing down as they clip in ( spray helps on the clips ), then you can remove from the connector with a rag after spraying
From the previous driving of the car the fuel pressure is trapped at the fuel rail by a check valve in the fuel pump itself and the round fuel pressure regulator at the front left of the engine just fwd of the throttle butterfly
This 43 PSI should hold for days
When you rotate the key to the on position before the start position the ECU will close the fuel pump relay for 4 seconds then click a 2nd time to turn the fuel pump off
The 3rd click back on comes from the crankshaft position sensor as it sees engine rotation by way of the ECU
This is a safety / crash design so the fuel pump will turn off if the engine shuts down
By cycling the key you better prime the fuel lines if it has a small leak back into the tank
The ignition timing at first comes from the Camshaft position sensor then reverts to the Crankshaft position sensor during the start cycle
The Camshaft position sensor is CEL code P0340 and the car can start with it bad but is harder to do and takes more rotations
The Crankshaft position sensor can fail without giving you a CEL light and the fuel pump enable use of that single signal can fail before the tachometer or ignition timing use of that single signal
I was not able to hear the fuel pump. Perhaps because in the garage it was drowned out by the engine cranking. I can just try turning the ignition switch to on and not start. Assume the pump will come on in that position? Where is the fuel pump located?
I did pull the fuel pump relay. All connections looked good. I’ll have to locate the fuel pump connector to check for burn marking. Again need to know where this located?
I’ll revisit the large relays up front. As well as swapping the outside relay in the up front fuse box.
Was able to make it back to evaluate some of the suggestions this afternoon.
When turning the key to the on position I was able to feel the fuel pump relay click and after taking the insulation panel off was able to hear the fuel pump. The relay clicked first and then almost immediately clicked again but the fuel pump ran a couple of more seconds. I assume this means the fuel pump is at least coming on and I do not have a problem with the relay or another fuse.
I went under the hood and again was able to feel the fuel injector relay click. I was able to remove it and switched it with the AC clutch relay. Tried to start the engine at this time and again no evidence any gas was getting to the engine.
While under the hood I swapped the two blue relays in the right and left engine fuse boxes. Did not help.
I believe I have tried all other suggestions with not success. Is there are fuel filter that perhaps is blocking the flow of gas?
The fuse for the power that goes through the ECU controlled relay ( fuel injector relay ) is .# 11 / 20 amp.right engine fuse box
In this case power " to " this fuse is hot at all times as directly wired to the battery , not the case with the fuse # X which comes from the corner king relay closing ( ignition positive relay )
Swapped the fuel pump relay with the ACC relay ?
The relay can click verifying it's getting the correct command but the power contacts inside the relay can be compromised causing the pump to under perform
The 3rd click of the relay from the CKPS can fail and you can still see the tachometer and no CEL code P0335 , common with this car
Filter yes , O - rings required
Your observations of the relay sticking is intellectually stimulating , sticking power contacts as they are already bad ?
Did you cycle the ignition switch several times before starting ?
Voltage sag ?
You can remove the fuel pump relay and jumper the # 30 to # 87 socket and this will directly power the pump
30 is the aft most socket and the 87 is the fwd most socket
Blade type connectors recommended so the current flow of the jumper connection is not limited , heavy wire and the auto parts stores sometimes have a tool kit behind the counter to make a jumper wire with
This jumper will be hot at all times so it will drain your battery with your keys in your pocket
Checked today. When I try to start I am getting no tach reading. In the off position the needle is below zero and when trying to start it moves to zero but that is it. Sounds like then it could be the CPS? Is this difficult to change?
For the CKPS I initially tried removing, cleaning and reinstalling. No success in starting. Ordered a new part and installed today. SUCCESS! Started on the first try. Thanks for helping me work through this!
Now I need to tackle a radio that no longer works and an A/C that is not working. But at least I can start and drive my XJ6.
