Well, another problem has cropped up aside from the shifter looseness.

Drove the car to work yesterday. Started up & drove fine (garaged, it's very cold here, like single digits oF).

Went out early afternoon, started car. It started right up but stalled soon after. I was walking back inside when that happened.
After that, with my foot to the floor I could get it to run very briefly (about 2000 rpm) but would not rev any further and really there was no throttle response. It would die after a few seconds regardless. Quite a strong fuel smell according to a colleague.

My first thought is fuel pressure regulator? Tow truck dumped it in driveway so if it warms up will pull vacuum hose off to see if fuel comes out. That would be sweet as I have a new one in stock.

Can rule out crank sensor as the tach does flutter while cranking and it was a new genuine Jag part not that long ago. Throttle sensor is also quite new, dealer installed, well ten years ago but not that many miles.

Anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks, Brad

 

Don't discount the oxygen sensor.

Also, check your coolant temp sensor. Cheap, easy and quick to replace. It really can cause your kind of problem.

 

The crankshaft position sensor can go bad in the different ways the single signal is used for like ignition timing , tach gauge , fuel pump enable , and others

The CEL code of P0335 does not always show when one of these aspects of CKPS fails

One of the uses is the fuel pump enable that if the engine rotation is not detected the enable is remove and the fuel pump shuts off , safety design

When you first start the engine the fuel pump runs for 3 seconds only then shut off , not until the engine ECU sees CKPS rotation will it turn the pump back on for the duration of your drive

So if you place your finger on the fuel pump relay and a good system you will feel 3 clicks , on - off - on

You can directly power the fuel pump at the relay between socket 3 to 5

3 is the power source and 5 is to the pump and the fwd most socket

Blade type connectors are recommended on your heavy gauge jumper wire

the auto parts store front counter can make one up for you




You may have some ignition timing issues not being correct and not fully burning the fuel

The face of the CKPS can be cleaned of any grime that has accumulated interfering with the sensor seeing through it as well as connector cleaning

The CKPS will read about 1300 ohms as a fundamental reading

You can obtain a CKPS from the parts store as not a Jaguar specific part ,100 bucks US

The MAF will read 1.2 volts DC at the correct idle speed on the middle wire of the remained installed connector

The TPS will read 0.60 volts DC on the middle wire at idle while connected , ensure the connector is clipped on secure and you can follow the middle wire up to where it is exposed

 

By jumpering the fuel pump relay the pump will remain running with your keys in your pocket draining the battery

 

Hi Brad,

Could your fuel be contaminated with water (now ice)? You could try injecting starter fluid into the intake hose past the MAFS to see if the engine will start reliably.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks everyone. Have not really had a chance to look at it yet other than drag (push) into the shop once the snow melted.

I did try to start it and it did the same thing, started and ran fine for a short time then stalled. Would not restart (I didn't hold the pedal to the floor like last time). Again a strong smell of fuel. Will investigate further this weekend.

My first thought given the above behaviour is still pressure regulator. I happen to have a new one from Dad's car (also 96 X300 except 4.0 auto). It has a similar issue (hard starting, no power, fouled plugs). In its case seems like plugged cat because it would run so-so once an upstream O2 sensor was pulled! Disconnected downpipe at bottom and problem persists.

I loathe those slide on connections! If anyone has a flange joint set of cats for sale, I might be interested!

Brad

 

Resolved, well kind of.

Pulled vacuum hose from pressure regulator, key on, no leakage. Tried normal start, no go. Tried clear flood start (not like I didn't try that a dozen times when the problem first presented). Car started up, smoothed out and had throttle response. Let come up to temperature. Shut-off, restarted normally!

Conclusions: It didn't like the extreme cold Friday before last. Today, around 40oF in shop. Vee's point about the CTS could have been in play though? That's about all I can think of. Fuel tank was (is) topped off.

Brad

 

Doesn’t sound resolved to me. Sounds like whatever is the problem hasn’t failed you in this instance.

Have you plugged in an OBD2 code reader? Something that can show you coolant temps, MAF readings, etc

 

aside from fuel pressure there are 2 souses of power for the engine ECU

!st power is the right engine bay fuse box fuse # 12 ( this is point 32 double hash circle ) which requires the ignition positive relay to close in the corner of the fuse box

2nd power which is used at all times is the large ECU Control relay which is controlled by the ECU and brings power back into the ECU

you can swap the right engine fuse box relay ( ignition positive relay ) with the left ( only runs the car horn ) and the large ECU Control relay for a headlight , fog , or AC relay of the same part #

This relay also powers the fuel injectors

 

No, I only have a basic reader that pulls codes.

 

Thanks for this. I should point out that my car is a non-supercharged 3.2 litre though. No EGR. Will keep this handy and try that relay swap if necessary. -Brad

 

They regulate pretty much the same

relay location in edited post above

 

you have this amazing window into the brain of your car and you don’t want to take advantage of it?

I would recommend buying a wireless ELM27 dongle for about $20 and an app for your phone. iPhones can only use WiFi dongles whereas Androids can use either (I believe, I have an iPhone)

 

Not so much that I don't want to, I just haven't had a need to until now. I have started looking at more sophisticated scan tools. Would like somewhere in between cheap knock off from Chi-na vs. mega Dollar Snap-On!

Attached are a couple of engine area photos. No secondary AIR on this car either.

Relays are quite cheap so I might just buy some new spares rather than trying to swap them around.

 

The iCarSoft reader is probably what you want then. This is a reader that also reads transmission and ABS codes....just make sure it's JLR specific, I believe. If you do a search on this forum, you'll find what you need.

Personally, I like having a cheap ELM27 dongle in the car to pull codes and read data on my phone because the dongle is cheap and I always have my phone on me. It will not read ABS/Transmission codes though. I have a separate do-hickey for that.

I still say replace that coolant sensor...

 

You can do the same socket 3 to 5 jumper Ing with a heavy wire with blade type connector ends on the blue relay in your pic ( ignition positive relay ) in the right engine bay fuse box

The left engine bay fuse box relay one only controls the car horn

This takes the right relay controlling ignition switch out of the equation

You have the same situation with the left and right heelboard fuse box as the right is referred to as the 2nd ignition positive relay and the right provides power on the control half of the fuel pump relay through fuse # 10 after the right relay heelboard fuse box is closed

This even applies to the large ECU Controlled relay and I am double checking the socket #s , yes the same 3 to 5 after double checking

Leaving the jumpers in place with the keys in your pocket will eventually drain the battery

The fuel pump control half of the relay gets its power through the BT4 connector above the fuel tank which can be troublesome in reconnecting, but you can visually ensure the lock over bar is tie wrapped in the secure position

The wire is in position 31 as the White / Pink color

 

Yes, the iCarSoft is what I had in mind. In fact, I might get both it and the dongle.

I clearly have an intermittent issue as yesterday the car started up & ran normally having done nothing since last weekends successful 'clear flood start'. I shall likely try it again today. The only common denominator was sitting outside in the extreme cold for a few hours a couple of weeks ago.

With that, I have stocked up on three new, different relays per the EPC and a new coolant sensor. It is my understanding that the ECM would rather see no data from that sensor than fake data? Thus, if it acts up again I might try disconnecting it?

 

If the ECU gets no data from the Coolant Temp Sensor, it will never go closed loop. It will fuel the engine based on predetermined fueling maps, not what the other sensors are telling it to do. Fake data would be better than no data.

If you already have the sensor, it will take you minutes to change. Just be ready with the new sensor when you take the old one out as you will lose some coolant.

of course make sure your car is stone cold when replacing. You don’t want to do this with warm coolant.

 

There is a condition that you can put your engine into as an accident as a bore wash

this is losing compression by the unburnt fuel washing the cylinder walls of ring sealing oil with the piston rings

This would show up more as a no start then a engine run continuation

If you press the pedal all the way down on start the ECU knows to stop fueling and the oil can be replenished on the cylinder walls

In a extrema case you can remove the plugs and put some marvel mystery oil or like into the cylinders , let it soak and on start up it will smoke , smoke alot

The set up cause up for a bore wash condition is short engine runs like in driveway test runs