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A wonky crankshaft position sensor can wreak all sorts of havoc. If you read through older posts, I believe stalling at idle has been a consistent symptom of an aging crankshaft position sensor.
While it’s not 100%, it’s certainly worth the price, considering your sensor is likely original.
Next up we can resolve your high idle.
Unless tour experiencing a sticky gas pedal, or an inconsistent idle level, I believe your TPS needs to be reset. While cleaning the throttle body is easy, and perhaps even needed, it will likely not resolve your high idle issue.
When I mean an inconsistent idle level, what I mean is when you come to a stop, it’s always a smooth idle, just at an occasional stop, it might idle at 600rpm, but most of the time when you stop, it isles at 900rpm. Never hopping around at a stop, it’s just sometime the throttle makes it back a little more than others. If the idle is consistent and smooth, it needs to be reset.
Once that’s resolved, we can start playing with the idea of the IACV.
Thanks Vee!
I've order the crankshaft position sensor and I will get it on Friday.
How do I reset the TPS? I assume some sort of special scanner or computer is involved, do you know who can do it in Dallas and a ballpark on the cost?
Cheers!
Vee's post suggesting this thread is splintering prompted me to go back and read your thread beginning with your intial post. While your CKPS may possibly be failing, at this point it's purely a guess. You had a code for the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP), but codes don't automatically indicate a failing sensor: many times the problem is with an electrical connection or corroded ground point. If your engine starts reliably, I wouldn't worry about the CMP for now.
As Vee observed your idle is too high. You didn't mention this in your initial post - are we to understand that the problem with the power steering fluid leak occurred after your initial post, or did you just forget to mention it? Are you certain you have cleaned all the electrical connectors thoroughly of all traces of P/S fluid (with a zero-residue cleaner like we discussed earlier) and that all connectors have been securely reconnected? Have you scanned the car to see if any new diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) have been flagged?
A frequent cause of high idle is an air leak, such as a disconnected or cracked vacuum or breather hose, a crack in the intake air plumbing between the MAFS and the intake manifold gasket, a stuck open EGR valve or carbon canister purge valve, etc.
Other things you can check are that the throttle cable is not binding and that the throttle return spring hasn't lost its tension to the point that the throttle is not closing completely.
Regarding the stalling, did you ever check your transmission fluid? If not, the fluid must be checked while hot, after a good drive of at least 20 minutes. Park on a level surface. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the gear shift lever from Park through every gear position, pausing at each position for at least 3 seconds, then move it back to Park. Now, with the engine still running, pop the hood. Pull the transmission fluid dipstick, wipe it clean and reinstert it all the way. Carefully withdraw it again and note the fluid level. It should be exactly at the top mark or HOT mark. If it is low, it could be contributing to your stalling issue. Jaguar issued at least one TSB on this.
Regarding the Seafoam, it has been shown to have a very slight cleaning effect, but I don't think it will have any effect on cleaning your IACV.
Thanks Lady P and Don!
What are everybody's thoughts on cleaning the intake with SeaFoam or something similar?
It has done a great job on some older Mercedes' I've owned since sometimes a little piece of gunk that grew through the years gets just stuck in the right place and causes a headache!
Don't bother.
Don't mess with the throttle position sensor and then it is a quick job to pull the throttle body. Once TB is off you can also clean the idle air control valve IACV.
Pull airfilter box, MAF, boot to TB, hoses to TB, four bolts (no gasket ) on the TB and it is off. Get some Berryman B12 and the gunk will melt off. You will be amazed at the crap in there....and then you will start looking at oil separating systems for the crankcase breather.
I will agree that once you pull the throttle body and clean it, you will want to try to prevent it from happening again. At least that’s what happened to
me:
Hi everyone!
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and cleaned the EGR Valve. I drove for 50 miles combining traffic and freeway and the car did not once died on me!!
The idle is still high though, 1400RPM's on P and N and 900 on R and D, I need to have the TPS reset, I will ask tomorrow the Jaguar dealer how much they charge for that!
I don't know if it's worth to change the EGR valve, it was quite dirty!
Any suggestions?
Does anyone know how much the dealership would charge to reset the TPS?
Cheers and thanks!!
With your hand put the throttle butterfly on the close stop and see what you get . See TBS below :
You can skip the Jaguar dealer and place a second spring on the outside of the tower or preload the existing tower spring around to a higher setting if that is the issue as there are post on that , can't find them now . The later item in the TSB addresses the return spring .
Sometimes you will find on the last cable quadrant before the throttle tower the cable will be on the wrong hole as it is marked A and M . And if you have the traction control option the input cable can bind , I'm just saying
You can either take the car to a dealer that can run the TPS Reset, which any shop that owns jag specific software can do. Should cost you about 1 hour of labor, or $150, depending where you go.
If you owned a WDS, VCM1 or a Mongoose, you could do it yourself.
There is also a way to manually adjust it that seems to work most of the time. It requires you to loosen the two bolts holding the TPS to the underside of the throttle body. There is usually enough give to twist the TPS so that it lowers the idle. Once you’re where you need to be, you tighten the bolts back up and you are good to go.
I found it easier to start this process by taking off the throttle body for a cleaning, then when reassembling, tighten the TPS back up with just enough torque that you can still, with some effort adjust the TPS’ position then reassemble, make the adjustment, tighten it up and call it a day. I think I even modified my TPS once to enlarge the holes, in case I needed more room for adjustment.
There are threads regarding this process, at least one with pics. When I have some time, I’ll see if I can’t hunt that down for you.
Well, today was a great day! Nice and warm here in Dallas. I took out the throttle body and cleaned it thoroughly. The only part I couldn't take apart was ironically the TPS, but I cleaned it very thoroughly and carefully, It took a lot of patience but I really enjoyed it and I enjoyed the results a little bit more! on P and N, I have 800 RPM's and I have 650 on R and D! Which I think is great!
You were right about the amount of gunk in there! I'm definitely not going to let another 22 years go by to clean it again!
I lost a little coolant when I unplugged the coolant hoses that go through the throttle body and I got the coolant light on the dashboard, I topped it with some coolant I used in an S Type I owned a while ago and now I'm going to flush it and pour some new one. Any recommendations on which antifreeze to use?
The car drives like a dream, I love the awareness that you need to drive this car on a freeway because suddenly you're reaching 90 mph and you don't feel a thing! Like you're floating in a cloud! So the awareness consist in being careful not to go over the speed limit because really you can't feel it.
Thanks to everyone for your contributions that made me achieve the intended smoothness of the car!
Your right on the spot on the idle speeds and the antifreeze TBS is located below . Depending on your climate and need for a clean and efficient heater core or matrix ( as this is a problem item with wrong fluid ) you might consider a coolant flush with some water and flush chemical before adding the new radiator fluid . Or might consider a mechanical water pressure reverse flush with water to push out the guck in the heater core before adding the coolant . not a hard thing to do .
Hi Everyone!
It's been a couple weeks and the car is running very nice!
Last time I deleted the codes, because the check engine light was on I had code P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1.
I've driven it probably 500 miles more or less including a 75 mile highway drive and 75 miles back.
The only issue I have experience is that 3 or 4 times the car has gone off but the engine starts right away.
I'm considering Replacing the Camshaft Position Sensor if this is the problem, I've seen rebuilt ones at good prices.
My question is do you need to "calibrate" the Camshaft Position Sensor or just take off the old one and put in the new one?
The engine feels very very good, sometimes I even check the tachometer on red lights because it's so quiet and steady I get the feeling the engine is not running!
Thanks!!
The Camshaft sensor is only used in the starting sequence and then all functions are transferred over to the Crankshaft sensor , although someone mentioned it is still monitored and can give some trouble that I don't understand . You can get the 340 code if you fiddle with it , did you reset the code recently ? There is a adjustment procedure of getting the dot to line up in the clear plastic window but this does not account for the crankshaft being one rotation off because it rotates 2 times for every 1 of the camshaft . Does the engine light off immediately or does it take a couple of revolutions ? This would be s sign if the camshaft sensor is both functioning and adjusted correctly . There is a TSB on camshaft sensor adjustment below :
Thanks Lady P,
The Check engine light is now off all the time, only when I turn the car on I'll get all the lights on for a second or two as in any car, then it goes off except for the windshield washer fluid because the deposit has a leak and it's always empty.
It's not always that the engine will turn off, it's very random and it's usually after driving for a little while.
The crankshaft position sensor was replaced a couple weeks ago and there's really nothing more I can think of.
I will check and clean the Papa Indy Conectors now!
Thanks!
You can have the code cleared for free at the auto parts store and if it stays on they will read the codes again . The 340 code may be one that doesn't keep the CEL light on at all times .
You can have the code cleared for free at the auto parts store and if it stays on they will read the codes again . The 340 code may be one that doesn't keep the CEL light on at all times .
I don't know how prevalent this is, but in our area the auto parts personnel are allowed to read codes but not to clear them. I assume this has something to do with our emissions-testing requirements.
Thanks everyone for your answers and comments!
I can erase the codes myself with my scanner.
When it cuts off usually the engine is warm and it's when I've stopped, the last time it happened for example I was getting into the fitness center parking lot and I had just almost stoped, going probably 2 mph.
It also happened on a red light.
I took out the Camshaft sensor today and then aligned the circular marker with the circle mark on it and put it back on. The first time it took a few turns of the starter to turn on and then I made 4 or 5 stops and everything was fine. I don't know if this will solve the problem because the cut offs were very random, I'd just have to drive for a while I guess.
The engine still idles at 650 in R and D and at 850 on P and N. It's surprisingly quiet.
03-07-2018, 03:51 PM
