fantastic! good to hear. when I had my XJR it would fly everywhere I went :]

 

Yeah i got mine from my grandfather who let it sit there for awhile and the biggest problem at first was that throttle.

 

Hi

I have a 96 xjr 190,000 miles. Last night I was making a left turn from a dead stop. The engine all warning lights came on, the engine coughed several times and stopped. The re-start was full of ruff engine sounds, engine coughing, etc. It took two attempts to get a re-start. The car moved forward with a rough engine, then cleared and I drove home without incident and with a smooth running engine.
When I start it up in the morning and back the car out it will cough and all warning lights will come on as in a start. Sometimes it will stall. Upon a restart, I can drive off and it will remain smooth for some time and then it will repeat. Any ideas?22 July 2018 09:35


Thanks, TAG

 

The auto parts store can read the CEL engine codes for free . Did you notice if the tach dropped to zero before the engine actually was ?

 

The tac was falling to low, then off. Sometimes when the engine stopped and started quickly the dash lights would go on then off except for the airbag light which would remain on til I restarted.

 

Tach falling to low then off with it not truly agreeing with what the engine is truly doing is an indication the Crankshaft sensor is failing . A more tell wouldbe the tach going to 0 as the engine RPM is yet to drop . The CKPS can partially fail in other aspects of it's signal use in engine regulation like the fuel pump enable . It can fail in different degrees without latching in a CEL light .The connector can be cleaned being in a bad environment and the face of the sensor can be cleaned of any debris that can interfere with the inductance air gap to the toothed relugtor gear .

There is a relay to swap first being ...................The RH engine fuse box king relay with the one in the LH.. And the ECU controlled relay with the foglight relay . see page X IN THE FILE BELOW "

Read all the CEL codes and write all the numbers down on paper while there . Then be sure to have them reset .

 

Crankshaft sensor has been changed.

 

I know this isn't helpful, so my apologies in advance....

We still see a lot of these threads go unresolved with the original poster just going away, or a few resolved by changing a bunch of parts at once with no clear cause.

But I really do look forward to the day we definitively find the one or two common causes for this idle drop and die issue when coming off throttle. These are seemingly popping up more often now that the cars are accumulating high mileage and 20+ years of age. So I suspect it is something common we just haven't identified yet.

....still working on mine and have gone through most of the sensors/actuators that support ignition, fuel and air. Next on the list to check out is ECU (specifically water ingress) and perhaps IACV.

I'll start looking into that now that I have some time since the Riviera is back on the road.

 

Thanks:

I appreciate the help. I am eliminating possible causes and will certainly let all know of my success.

Thanks

TAG

 

Hi

I have solved the issue. It was not electrical but fuel related. Cleaned the MAF sensor wires (very dirty). Clean the idle speed control motor. Ran Sea Foam through the engine to clean plugs and injectors (two cans to a half tank). Plugs were a year old and very dirty. I have a smooth running engine with a very infrequent miss at idle.

Tom

 

Well it was fun reading about Fenja's new XJR. 14,882 viewers had seen it before me. Wonder what happened in 2013 when he stopped posting?

 

Would have liked to have heard his story of his new sound system

 

I was going to tell you this reading down the page but you figured it out. The straight 6 was very bad back when new with carbon deposits on not only the throttle blade but in the idle air control solenoid ports. Now fast forward 22 years. Jaguar came out with a kit that greatly reduced the amount of oil vapor from the crankcase that goes in front of the throttle. It would get so bad with deposits that when the engine cooled the deposits would get hard and seize the throttle. And of course a frustrated male foot can exert more than enough force to snap the throttle cable or greatly stretch it leaving you far less than full throttle and a big hesitation from slack between what your foot wanted and the engine gave from idle. Many people and tech would only clean the throttle ignoring the iacs passage. There can be more than enough blockage here to cause stalling especially coming off the throttle or when the ac compressor kicked on at idle or the steering turned to lock as in a parking lot requiring full power steering pump pressure. that's the purpose of the IACS(idle air control solenoid) so always be sure to clean the IACS port, a word to the wise. DO NOT remove the IACS from the throttle body unless it has failed. those tiny bolts were very easily snapped off even after plying heat to soften the thread locking material. damn you mad eme go back in the back of my mind for 20+ years of history