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So I usually don't care about AC but my LS460 is getting the transmission replaced so my XJ6 is my daily driver for a week and it's hot as hell right now. I had the freon checked last week, it's charged and no leaks but then stumbled across the little climate control trick to get the fault codes.
Driver side and passenger both blow warm
24 - face vent differential temp control
11 - In car temp sensor
Has anyone dealt with these 2 codes before, if so are they a pain in the rear to fix/replace?
So I just read this can happen after you replace the battery. I was gone for a few months and my AGM battery died so I had to get it recharged at Discount and now that I think of it the AC hasn't worked since. I didn't notice at first because it was winter so I wasn't running the AC. I am trying the disconnect fix now but some say I may have to get something reprogrammed
What he's saying is that #1 in the diagram is malfunctioning. It is a little fan unit with a thermistor. It is probably jammed up with dirty lint from the carpets, a common issue. If you take off the lower dash cover under the steering wheel, you can clean it out. That may very well clear Code 11. Remember it is connected with a plug that you can take apart once the panel is loose.
Not sure if Code 24 is important or not, maybe it will clear out. That is the vertical dial between the main vents. It has a sensor on it too.
Don't know if battery change-out would cause these issues. Seems doubtful it would.
Good job finding that A/C self-test information, it is useful.
Last edited by SleekJag12; Sep 2, 2018 at 03:32 AM.
What he's saying is that #1 in the diagram is malfunctioning. It is a little fan unit with a thermistor. It is probably jammed up with dirty lint from the carpets, a common issue. If you take off the lower dash cover under the steering wheel, you can clean it out. That may very well clear Code 11. Remember it is connected with a plug that you can take apart once the panel is loose.
Not sure if Code 24 is important or not, maybe it will clear out. That is the vertical dial between the main vents. It has a sensor on it too.
Don't know if battery change-out would cause these issues. Seems doubtful it would.
Good job finding that A/C self-test information, it is useful.
Ahhh gotcha, okay I will see what I can do today about that #11 issue then move on to 24 if needed
in the pdf it says I can test that little fan thermostat by putting tissue on a little grill and if it stick it means it's working. Do you think this is the grill it meant? By the way my jag only has 58k miles so it doesn't have much usage
i believe that's the piece and it's in mint condition and working. I've cleared the codes for now to see if they come back. The only reason I mentioned the battery is because I did try starting it when the battery was weak and tried jumping it. So I thought maybe it would have some effect on that low voltage trigger that I read somewhere. I let the CC test cycle through all the numbers and didn't get any errors. I'll probably drop it off next week to my old timer mechanic, he doesn't mind working on ford's. He refuses to work on my ls460 lol
For now
Had my state inspections done and they checked the AC as well. The expansion valve is clogged and from reading other posts it's a tough job. I was quoted $1300 but I also read that in some cases you can flush the entire system and put high pressure though it to possibly unclog it. I was quoted $250 for that option which is still an IF. Anyone had any luck going this route?
If I may barrow a suggestion from Motorcarman ( Bob ) with me never done it myself . You can push simple compressed air in both directions on the fittings to the TXV at the fwd side of the firewall and push out any debris without digging out the valve and cost .
The dryer above the condenser is recommended to be changed at the same time and are for around $ 30 US they are commonly available .
A competent AC shop should be able to perform this task for you if your're not tooled up to do it yourself .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Sep 10, 2018 at 06:45 PM.
Thanks , But it was Bobs's advice and experience .
Off hvac topic but any idea why this sticks? Everytime I use the jag I have to manually turn it after the car has sat for more than a few hours otherwise the car has no acceleration at all.. I did adjust the cable so the tricycle
acceleration is now resolved
tricycle was a joke about how sluggish the acceleration was until I adjusted the cable this morning.
That thing in the photo is sticking as in if I don't turn it with my hand it won't move and press the gas the car will not move. Once I slightly break it loose with a slight turn of my hand it engages and then I can get back in the car and drive it. I've sprayed it with some lubricant but it still sticks after the car sits for a few hours.
As far as advancing it would appear you have a sever amount of guuck inside the TB and from my understanding it is not related to a mechanical part . If you had the opposite retarding issue then a mechanical issue is the return spring in the TB shaft tower and a Jaguar TSB covers that .
See page 11 , and there are cheaper homemade solutions to this retarding people have done .
Al NZ notice a fraying of the cable causing under actuation interference and there were people that had the cable housing in the hole A or M marking on that last cable housing clamp
The removal of the guuck requires removal of the TB for a though cleaning and many people can walk you through it . The biggest question is to weither there is a seal on the downstream side of the TB and the intake manifold seating surface and there is not , just plain naked .
A long term solution to this guuck issue is a better air / oil separator beyond what was designed into the valve cover and some people take this step in 2 different forms one being a Jaguar air / oil seperator by a Jaguar TSB and another different from the 2 as a external from the valve cover separator .
97 XJ6 HVAC fault codes 11 and 24
