Hello.

I am experiencing an ABS light on the dash of my 97 XJ6 3.2. EU

First of all, the light pops up always, when the car does speed check at 15mph or what ever. And does not go out untill i turn the car off. By reading old threads, some say that this is a sympton of a faulty module instead of falty wheel sensors. Is this correct?

I have tried to read the codes with no luck. Engine codes are the only codes coming up.. Could this be a symptom of bad abs control module or no power to the module? I have tried icarsoft and 2 other universal readers.

I have removed the moduless connector (the one with red insides and bolt in the middle) and used a lot of connector cleaner.

Abs modules ground point near the pump on the firewall looks bit corroded. I have not removed this yet. Could be the reason if the mofule is not grounded?? Any other ground points worth checking out? Or any other ideas. I would prefer not to open the module and resolder it or replace it just yet.

Abs light used to show up last year after sitting for a while, but it went away after driving around for a while, and did not come up until now.

Ideas and help needed!

Thank you.

Facts:

-ABS coming up only after speed check.

-ABS indeed does not work

-big connector removed once.

-voltages or resistances have not been checked yet. I do not have a multimeter.

-wheel sensors not removed ot checked yet.

-i do not have traction control or cruise control on my car. Its almost as fleet model as possible.

 

You need an OBD2 reader that has Jaguar Software in it to pull the ABS codes. I believe there are some threads that review which readers have been confirmed to be able to read these codes. You should research that before you head down the wrong path.

I'm not sure where you're located, but maybe there's someone on these forum who can help pull those codes if they lived nearby?

Most shops and garages have high end equipment that should be able to pull those codes. You could also go on eBay and purchase a cloned VCM or Mongoose. They work, not well, and perhaps not for long, but the costs seem pretty low.

I really believe pulling the code would be the best path forward. It could be a faulty ABS pump, module, or a dirty/failing wheel sensor, or something more.

 

Hi.

Thanks for the reply. I acctually went to a spesifically jag repair shop, and they couldnt pull the codes with their jag spesific obd readers. This is why i think, that the abs module could be out of power.

 

The equipment specific to the X300 may no longer be at the shop , I was told at a Jaguar dealership in my city

Your power will be on pin 1 and 2 and 15 , the brake switch which provides a ground ( ground seeking ) is pin 20



While you have the connector off ( screw in the middle holding it on ) the 4 sensor's wire pairs ( by color on the pic ) should read 1300 ohms resistance and if you spin the tire in correct car fwd direction the pairs will read about 1 volt AC

To remove the sensor's they are brittle and can break , Motorcarman ( Bob ) has a trick to not break them ( expensive )

Cleaning the face of the sensor other than connector clean cost you a paper towel

The fuse is # 7 right heelboard fuse box , # 7 left heelboard fuse box ( both these fuses are 30 amp which is big if you think about it ) and #16 / 5 amp left heelboard

This # 16 must have small relay in the corner of fuse box close , to test .......... with key in run position , remove relay and it should click in your fingertip

The ABS light will not come on until 3 events , will only extinguish once travelling 12.5 mph after repair

 

Amazing info!!!

Will get back to you with results during weekend! Will check the fuses. I dont know why i havent tought of that yet🤣

Also, in my country, there is no acctual jaguar service or dealership. Only small shops that have been spesifically servicing jags for long time. That was the best chance of reading codes for me here😅.

 

The code for the bad solder joint issue is C1095 or 65 abouts

The X300 specific equipment that may be able to read chassis codes was only around for 3 years and maybe superseded on the later V 8 X308 shop equipment , I can be totally wrong and others would know better

Remember to not try too hard in removing the sensors from wheel hubs , 10 mm ratchet , and you can soak them for a couple days before removal , the hole the sensor sits into hub , stainless steel " cap " in a cast iron hole , it is the cap that gets left behind as the plastic ear pops out , no jacking required

Check the relay in the corner of the # 16 fuse heelboard fuse box that it clicks on relay removal , key in run but engine not started

 

I am currently starting to take this thing apart. What i have done so far is: removed the ground nut behind the abs pump with two litle bit corroded cables and cleaned them up. I checked the heelboard 30amp fuses and they were fine. Havent checked the relay yet, but i will get to it soon.

Tell me, the abs modules connector is off currently, and when i turn key to ignition, the abs light is light. But when i reconnect the connector, this doesnt happen. Can we conclude anything from this? For example that the module works?
Thanks.

 

iCarsoft was allegedly able to read these codes. Please do a search on the forums and make sure you get the one that has been confirmed by others to work.

I believe Innova scanners were also confirmed by others to work. Please fact check me, and make sure you get the correct one.

I came across AutoPhix 7310 that seems JLR specific looks like it could read those codes too, but I don't think there's any confirmation from other users.

I think all of these devices should cost less than $100. This would be well worth the investment.

 

The ABS connector reseat probably resets the module

I think you can consider the module is being powered up

The grounds that are important are the small studs on the engine rear firewall below the larger B + power terminals both left and right

The 30 amp fuses are probably the power to bend metal tubes in the electrohydraulic valves ( EH valves )

This is how a large aircraft auto pilot works

5 amp probably the brains

 

Yeah. I am pretty sure that the module itself is alive and well. I cleaned out lots of ground points, and abs connectors, except i did not remove or check any sensors now. Too tired and depressed for that kind of stuff now. I went for a little drive, and the abs light lit up again shortly at 15mph or whatever. Heelboard relays cliked like they should. I am pretty confident, that the problem may be some wheelsensor itself or wiring. Any other ideas?

I will be taking the wheel sensors apart some other day. I will check back then.

 

The way Motorcarman / Bob suggested is to push sensors out ( long screwdriver ) from center of hub instead of prying from outside , some have had no problem prying from outside

On the rear sensors a universal / knuckle is in the way inside the hub , so will have to rotate tire

Anybody down the block have a meter ?

 

Unfortunately no. I may get to borrow one from uni, but untill then, ill have to just trial and error. 😁 I will have the sensors off next week anyways.

 

My experience with the ABS warning light on a X300 is that when the ignition is on and the light comes on briefly and then goes out, no problems have been detected. If the light stays on after switching the ignition on and starting, it is usually a module problem. If the light comes on when driving faster than 15 mph, it is usually a sensor or wiring problem.

 

Hi everyone. Hope yall been well.

​​​​​​So little update about the Jag.

​​​​​​It is 18 celcius degrees below freezing here tonight, and i figured i wanted to have some sideways action with the car. I went and started the car (started up fine after sitting in these temps for a month). And after it warmed up a little i started driving. Well guess what. No more abs light.

I still have not opened the wheel sensors. And i havent driven the car at all after the last post i made. I took a 300 km trip to try to get the abs light to turn off back then, but it didnt work. Keep in mind it was warm when i did the trip.

Anyone else have problems fix themself when its really cold outside?

PS. The ABS acctually works now.

 

Most likely it's a pump motor contact problem (fault code 1095). There is a 2-place bullet pin connector on the top of the module for pump motor. Have a proper look on it to check if it's fully engaged, corrosion free and rubber insulators are not rotten. My issue was there. But in many cases module lower needs to be removed (could be done without the hydraulic pipes disconnecting), cut open and resolder at pump motor connector. This fault yes is pretty much temperature dependent.

 

​​​​​​
Hi. Thank you for the reply.

Okay good info. So if i understood correctly, you think its not the abs module, but some (bullet looking?) connectors between the pump and the abs module? Are you referring to the smaller black plastic connector that goes from the pump? Sorry, im not very smart with these things. I attached a pic below. If you could pin point me what you mean. Thanks:-)

 

A fairly common problem is the pump power pins on the module board, the soldered joints on the board sometimes lose conductivity and need to be resoldered.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

I had the same problem with intermittent ABS several years ago.
Eventually I removed the ABS module at the bottom of the pump, cut it open and resoldered the pump power pins and the ABS has been fine since. It is a common problem, The module can be removed from the bottom of the pump without removing the brake lines. I saw some posts where the pump power pins were accessed by cutting a circular hole in the casing rather than removing the entire cover.
Here are some instructions for removing the module and repairing the connections that I cobbled together at the time from various posts.

 

Before diving into involved module work ask that you have done easier things first unless you have C1095 code .

Wheel sensors face cleaned ? different than the connector clean

Brake switch checked at the ABS module connector ? pin 20 , there are 2 brake switches in 1 at pedal brake switch package 1 dedicated to brake lights

Wheel spin test in car fwd spin to see 1 volt AC generated at the ABS module ?

As to cold related ............the last 2 lines and not first

But to do jacking / wheel spin in cold unrealistic , but you can see your 1300 ohms as good in a basic meter test

The ABS fault light will not " show " until 3 fault cycles ( trips ? ) and light will not reset until 12.5 miles per hour ( this may involve both driving and your commanding the code reset to blank ) so this can easily throw you off to make sense of your observations

 

Yes, the one with red and brown wires on your pic. Mine was not fully in by somebody who was there before. Also I've seen that that or another somebody already was inside the module as it was cut and then covered back with sealant, So had to remove the lower clean that sealant and weld the cut piece in a proper way.